Goats arrive

We collected our two male kids today and have settled them into the shed for the next few days - the brown one is very friendly while the white one is very nervous.

It will be fun to see how they get on with the sheep!

The Lamb

Already 10 days old, the lamb is growing well and full of energy.

Sue & Minnie

New Arrivals

Today our first swallows returned to join a couple of other newcomers.

Linda's two new hens - Sussex Ponte's named Sue & Minnie -arrived about 3 weeks ago and they have just been accepted by the remaining Hockey Girls - Karen & Jinty. Egg laying is not quite as regular as hoped but I am sure they will settle down soon.

We think that one of the ewes miscarried while we were away but the other one delivered a ewe lamb last week - just in time for Easter. We had to help with the delivery because the lamb was in an awkward position but all went well and she is now running around like a mad thing.

Finally, we are due to collect our latest newcomers on Sunday - a couple of male goat kids which were orphaned and have been hand reared. They should provide some company for the lamb and go the butcher at about the same time.

Only pigs and ducks to go and we will have our meat supply sorted for the year!

As if we'd never been away!

Arrived home on a glorious spring day to find everything was pretty much as we left it. One car started first time, the other didn't.

Managed a bit of essential shopping, unpacking and sorting, a walk in the sunshine and a home-cooked meal - chicken liver curry - followed by 11 hours asleep.

Woke refreshed to a grey wet morning - with a list of jobs to be completed outside before the ewes and hens come home.

Stayed wet all day - full waterproofs for the afternoon while I mixed cement for the hen-house floor and tried to stop the leaks in the roof. Got the shed ready for the ewes and power back on the electric fences while Linda was busy with the washing machine.

Unfortunately our sick hockey girl didn't make it - despite all Kate's efforts - will have to decide whether to replace her or not.

The Statistics

We spent 46 nights in Chile slept in 23 beds -10 hotels, 7 apartments or cabanas, 4 hostels / B&B's – our longest stay was 6 nights in Concon.

We were on 3 domestic flights and then drove 3700km in the X-Trail. Weather-wise there were 32 sunny days, 10 1/2 were overcast and 2 ½ were rainy (one day didn't count because we spent it in an airport waiting for a rescheduled flight) – Linda can tell me to the penny how much we spent on petrol, and the average cost per night of our accommodation – but I nodded off and missed the figures.

A weekend in Mississauga

Started with pub night again – thanks to Mark & Judy – a chance to practise my Pisco Sour recipe. Made it home before daylight but still spent most of Saturday recovering.
Despite Braeden's injury we went to watch his team in the playoffs – maybe they would have won if he had been on the ice!
Then on to a family dinner – Saucy in Streetsville – an excellent meal and the sort of professional friendly service which we rarely see.
Sunday morning and we are back on the road for our flight to Newark and connection home to Shannon. Couldn't check in online (system wouldn't allow) for the Continental / United flight and had to wait until Newark by which time they tell us that we are sitting at opposite ends of the aircraft – hard to understand when we had seats assigned in our original reservation about 5 months ago.
Airline staff in Toronto and Newark have been among the surliest people we have encountered – will be a pleasure to be back home where you have a bit of chat with everyone you meet.

About 7 hours in the 'Land of the Free'reminded me that the inalienable right that they exercise most is the the one that makes them loud and vexatious in public spaces.

Braeden is his usual lively self - even with a damaged knee - no concessions. Luckily he can't move very fast when you take his crutches away.

Pub night calls!

The Last Supper

With a 21.45 hrs departure for Toronto, we had a full day to fill on Thursday. Our hosts were happy for us to stay for as long as we wanted but we got on the road just after midday and drove cross country to Casablanca in time for a late lunch at the Casas del Bosque. We were too late to visit the winery when we were in Casablanca last week but they gave us such a friendly reception we decided that it would be a nice way to finish our stay in Chile.

We chose their food & wine pairing menu and the food was excellent, perfectly matched to the four wines that they gave us. One of our best meals and a fabulous location -not sure the picture does it justice!

From there it was a a quick blast down the motorway to the airport to drop of the car and the joys of long-haul travel.

Alamo - like most of their fellow car rental companies - lived up to form; first they couldn't find the original reservation and were unable to calculate the costs, then when they did find it, they charged a $120 penalty on the rental cost because they had no record of my request to extend the rental period by a week - despite an email and a phone call to confirm the extension and the absence of any penalty. After a lengthy discussion (just as well we had plenty of time for check-in) we had to pay 50% of the charge in return for the contact details of their General Manager to whom our complaint will be addressed. Will refrain from further comment until I see his response.

The Air Canada flight was full, long and took a very bumpy road north - otherwise uneventful arriving on time in a dry mild Toronto morning. Jim was waiting to meet us and provide Starbucks for breakfast-how good can it be!

A further thought

Forgot to mention that just as the towns and cities feel safe and secure, the countryside is equally benign. There do not appear to be any snakes or bugs to bite or poison you and there have been very few mosquitoes - haven't even seen a cockroach - probably explains why camping is so popular!

Thoughts on Chile

We have enjoyed our time here, it was an excellent choice for our winter break and we have generally been impressed by all we have seen.

Firstly, everything works – which is a contrast to some of the South American or Asian countries that we have visited – just like being at home. It is safe, secure, generally litter-free and comfortable. It is also a very affluent place - lots of new cars and families on holiday - not much sign of homelessness or begging on the streets, although there were the usual one or two who looked like they needed the money for another drink.

Travel is easy – they must have one of the best bus systems in the world – and the roads are generally good with lots of improvement programmes in progress. There has been plenty to see and do - from the lakes, volcanoes and national parks to the wineries, thermal springs and beaches - and we didn't make it to the far south or to the northern deserts.

Being here in the height of the holiday season has been challenging at times but if you came here in November, December or March, you would avoid most of this. Definitely a great place for a holiday and perhaps even better for those with young families – there are so many activities to entertain kids of all ages.

It has proved more expensive than we expected – much the same as the costs at home – but the wine is cheaper and the fruit and vegetables, which are of such good quality. The food has been good – excellent meat, fish and seafood – but the cooking has been plain and quite ordinary. There are probably only 2 or three meals that stand out.

I commented on the police (Carabineros – or carbonaras as Linda insists!) in Santiago and their presence has been notable throughout our travels but not in an oppressive way – perhaps it is just high-visibility policing.

The people have been friendly and helpful where ever we have interacted with them although at other times they can seem distant and disinterested – a little like being in London where people are too busy or stressed to notice those around them.

I should have improved my Spanish before we arrived – learning on the trip has provided some amusing lessons but thankfully few misunderstandings. Over the last couple of weeks I have managed a few lengthy conversations but I am always conscious of how poorly I speak the language. If you are planning to travel here, you need to have a basic level of the language to be able to eat, drink and get around.

Who needs a hairdryer?

Guess that's it then!

Our last home in Chile has proved the ideal place to finish our trip. Our room - at one end of the house - has a great deck and a pool and sits on a slight rise surrounded by the fields - oranges to one side and corn, onions, grazing for the horses on the other along with a variety of other fruit trees. A great place to relax and prepare for our return to reality and all the jobs that need to be done at Moyhill.

Wednesday is our last full day and there is a very good chance that it will be much like today - walk around the fields after breakfast followed by a swim before driving into town for lunch and a little shopping for some snacks for supper. By the time we get back it will be too hot for anything but the pool and perhaps a cold beer or two.

On our evening stroll through the orange groves we were joined by the 5 dogs and a young ginger cat who kept us company the whole way. They come to check up on us when we are sitting on the deck but never overstay their welcome.

The temperature drops as the sun sets, but still warm enough to sit outside and read until it is properly dark and the night sky is revealed in all its glory. I am getting better at identifying the stars but there is such a profusion of them that I need to go back to the star-charts for reference.

News from home

As we near the end of our trip, our thoughts and conversation have focussed on Moyhill and the things that will await us on our return, and the jobs that need to be done as we start the new season.

This was brought into sharp focus last night with the news that one of the Hockey Girls is unwell despite the care and attention lavished on her by Kate. Hope she will pull through by the time we get home. We had to dispatch one of the Girls before we left - due to something incurable - but luckily her namesake is fit and well having just celebrated her 21st (???) birthday.

We are spending our last three nights on a working farm (15000 orange trees) to get us back in the mood

Rodeos

In Chile, the rodeo is different from those I have seen in the USA. However it was still a great demonstration of horsemanship which we enjoyed watching. We had learned beforehand that there are three levels of rodeos in Chile and that we were attending one in the middle level - not the best but - like championship football or perhaps the SPL - still a good show.

Having finally found the medialuna (stadium) and discovered that we were a couple of hours early for the start of the final session (after the elimination stages) we managed to find a very pleasant restaurant on the outskirts of San Esteban for a late lunch. We arrived back just in time for the start of proceedings and the playing of the national anthem.

32 Horsemen had paraded into the ring and after some additional preliminaries, they commenced the action which required them - in pairs - to corral a calf which was released into the ring and in three or four passes to pinion it against a cushioned barrier. Clearly there was a level of skill required above the basic horsemanship and our neighbours in the stands were fairly vocal in their praise and condemnation of the efforts of the riders. (*)

It appeared - from the regular cry of 'zero puntos' from the announcer - that the judges were hard to please but there were great cheers for the few who managed a score of 'quattro puntos'.

After a couple of hours, realising that we lacked the knowledge to know what was actually going on, we retired to the hotel bar and pool to watch the sunset and reflect on the experience.

* Linda took copious photos of the spectacle but unfortunately they were somehow lost in the process of downloading them to the web

Los Andes

Slightly off the tourist trail but on the main trans-Andes route to Argentina - Los Andes has been a very pleasant place to spend the weekend. Founded by Ambrosio O'Higgins from Ballina in Co Mayo -father of Bernardo who was the 'Libertador' and first president of Chile.

We are here primarily to see the rodeo in nearby San Estaban but have enjoyed the city - an interesting archaeological museum and another pleasant plaza.

From the hotel pool we can see snow-covered Aconcagua (6959m) - the highest peak this side of the Himalayas -and the nearby Cerro de la Virgen (about 200m) which we may climb tomorrow morning.

The other reason for our visit is Ceramica Cala - where we got to see the whole process and do a bit of shopping.

Last weekend in the sunshine - just caught the forecast for snow in Toronto next weekend - but the weather at home seems better.

More on the rodeo later.

Hourly rates

The Maipo valley has dozens of wineries offering interesting (but expensive) tasting opportunities but apparently no hotels. It seems that they rely on the hotels in Santiago to accommodate their visitors.

As a result we carried on to Casablanca – the next valley north where we were recommended to a 'very comfortable' hotel.

After a little navigation practice and instructions from three petrol attendants, we finally saw the sign and pulled into the parking space by the reception office – thought it a little strange that each room had a private space in front with a gate so that the cars could not be seen.

All became clear when I approached the owner to ask for our standard 'habitacion matrimonial con bano privado' to be told that the rooms were available for 4 hours, 6 hours or 12 hours but that she couldn't quote me a rate for 24!

Luckily, the entrance to the place we were looking for was 50 metres further along the road and it had pool, spa, hot tubs, and restaurant – and they rented their rooms by the day.

Lunch

We have fallen into the habit of eating our main meal at lunchtime -like most of our neighbours and treated ourselves today to the restaurant at the end of the road which specialises in Cordero al Palo -Spit roasted Lamb.

Very simple spit roasting oven – could build one when I get home – and substantial portions served with boiled potatoes and a Chilean salad – tomatoes and onions.

Tried to order a ½ bottle of cabernet sauvignon but was sold a bottle on the basis that I could take the balance home – somehow we managed to finish it along with all the lamb. But had to decline the dessert menu – Linda reckons she won't need to eat again until the weekend

Walking home we discovered a substantial shrine to St Andrew who, when he is not caring for Scots everywhere, apparently does a bit moonlighting looking after coastal communities in Chile.

Back on the beach

Tasting wine can be exhausting so we headed back to the coast and a small village called Cahuil – just south of Pichilemu and the 'world capital of surfing' at Punta de Lobos where they are currently holding the national surfing champonships.

Not sure if we will be able to see any of the surfing because we woke to a sea mist which rolled in from the horizon and has hidden every thing on the beach. Walked on the beach last night in shorts and tee shirts – this morning it was full walking gear and three layers to keep out the cold – but the mist lifted and it warmed up again by lunchtime

We are only 150m from the shore and can hear the sound of the breakers all the time – not sure how far we will venture in because the water is a bit cooler than Lahinch in summer – the Humboldt current again. It is however a fabulous beach to walk, where you can literally walk for miles on firm almost black sand with the breakers pounding the shoreline and an assortment of wading birds for company – particularly the Sanderlings which look like electric mice as they scuttle backwards and forwards with the ebb and flow of the waves.

We are here until Friday when we are off to the Maipo valley and more wine tasting followed by a weekend in Los Andes – an hour or so north of Santiago where we hope to finally see a rodeo.

Sometimes you just get lucky!

Arriving at the Vina Montgras for a tour and tasting - without a reservation - we didn't expect that we would witness the arrival of the first grapes of the 2012 harvest and to see them start their journey into the press even if they were only run of the mill Chardonnay destined for their basic table wine.

Getting to taste the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc direct from a 37,000l vat was a definite first - although it could have been chilled a little more!

The tour was one of the best I have experienced anywhere - a very friendly, informative guide to wine production in Chile in general and Montgras in particular and the chance to taste each of the grapes as they were ripening on the vines.

The tasting was also excellent - and a little snack to match each wine - a spicy shrimp with the Sauvignon Blanc, Cheese with the Carmenere and lamb with the Cabernet Sauvignon.

Back on track

As we left Curico this morning we stopped at the Miguel Torres winery only to find that despite what their website says, they only run multilingual tours on weekdays - Spanish only at the weekends - and they couldn't arrange a tasting only without the tour. Got the impression that they couldn't be bothered, so we continued on our way to Santa Cruz and the Colchagua Valley wineries.

As we drove, the clouds cleared away,the sun shone and the temperature climbed back to high 20's. Found a very nice place to stay for the first night and excellent sunday lunch - a couple of hours by the pool and then back into town for the entertainment in the Plaza.

The Chileno boy band who came on stage after much delay and confusion may have been just up Kirsten's street but we decided to have an ice cream and head home to prepare for the rigours of the Ruta del Vino and its 25 wineries!

Washed Out

As we drove north from Vina Chillan, the rain got heavier until it was torrential - like the monsoon rains in Singapore. After 45km we reached the city of Chillan where the streets were awash and we decided to continue north without our planned coffee stop. On the Panamerican we encountered such heavy rains that we had to pull over a couple of times and wait for it to ease. It made for very uncomfortable driving conditions.

Stopped in Villa Alegre, San Javier and Talca to visit some wineries but most were closed for the weekend and we only managed one tasting - at Vina Banduzzi. The Cultural Centre in Talca - which was the information centre for the local Ruta de Vina was in ruins from the 2010 earthquake(*) and because the local tourist offices were all closed we couldn't find the new information centre. To cap it all, the only place we fancied staying was fully booked - could only offer us bunk beds in a shared room - so we decided to carry on to Curico and a comfortable but fairly non-descript city centre hotel (the first hair-dryer Linda has seen in 5 weeks) and a chance to make a new plan.

*Hadn't realised that this area was one of the worst affected by the 2010 earthquake until we noticed the level of damaged buildings and reconstruction works around Talca and Curico. The main plaza in Curico has a Cathedral on one side which was rebuilt after the 1985 earthquake and survived 2010 with little damage but each of the other sides of the square had significant buildings which were in ruins. As we continued our journey to the Colchagua Valley, there are still a good number of damaged buildings wherever you look.

Have I been here before

We were discouraged from our plan to see the rodeo in Quilleco on Saturday by the tourism officer in nearby Los Angeles – as unwelcoming a place as I can remember (Great Yarmouth in winter?) - who explained that there was very bad weather forecast and that it would not be worth seeing in the rain.

So we continued up the road to Viña Chillan – a boutique organic wine producer in the Itata Valley which has a few well appointed rooms amongst the acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere vines and a good restaurant. Enjoyed after dinner conversation with the proprietor and some fellow travellers – wines are interesting and a little different from the run of the mill.

Woke to find the tourism officer had been right – persistent heavy rain – and a wet drive north to Talca and some serious wine tasting in the Maule Valley.

The Sights of Pucon

Lake, Volcano, waterfalls, thermal springs and lots of 'adventure' activities.

Since we can see the lake from our cabin and wander down to the small beach to watch the sunset every evening, we decided to visit the waterfalls and lagoon at Caburgua and then to drive up the volcano to see the visitor exhibition and visit their caves – essentially a long lava tube.

The Ojos de Caburgua were very pleasant and getting there before the crowds meant that we could enjoy the walk down to the blue lagoon and around the waterfall without interruption. Would be interesting to come back in Spring to see how they look when the melt-waters are running off the volcano – the high water marks were at least a metre or more above the current levels.

Heading up the volcano from the ranger station as you enter the National Park, the road runs out within 200metres and we drove 4km over steep and very pitted track to the entrance to the caves – the X-Trail has really come into its own on this trip – must remember to recommend it to Martin Byrne when I get back to Clare.

Unfortunately the company running the cave tours have changed their programme for the high season and we decided not to pay the price for an expensive guided tour in Spanish and settled for a hike across the lava fields instead.

While we had a clear view of the Volcano when we arrived in town on Monday, it has been hidden behind a veil of cloud for the last 3 days but as we were hiking along the trail which circles the mountain, the clouds cleared and we had a great view of the peak – with its small smoke plume and the snowfields on the upper parts. Found a nice cafe for lunch on the way down and then headed into town for some of those essentials – laundry, post office, telephone and wifi.

We are on the road again tomorrow morning heading for the town of Quilleco where we are hoping to see a rodeo on Saturday.

Cheeky Buggers

As our walk was set for an 0800hrs start – meaning that we were up before dawn to drive back into town – we had decided on an early night and were in bed by 11.00.

Suddenly we saw torch-lights shining round the outside of the cabin and voices which seemed to be on our deck. Getting up to investigate – somewhat less than fully dressed – I encountered neighbours from another cabin who were helping themselves to our barbecue. Being neither dressed nor minded to object, I accepted their apologies and returned to bed only to discover that their living room and deck was on the floor above our bedroom. We were able to hear them move the barbecue into position and then decided to move it 3-4 times before getting started on the cooking and subsequent activities which 'entertained' us until the early hours.

Bearing in mind my good friend Jimmy C's cool, calm, phlegmatic character -not dissimilar to Gerry – I ignored their provocation until my alarm (a recording of Rocky the rooster in his prime) went off at 06.30 and managed to leave it ringing until the battery wore out

Complained to the manager when we returned from our walk and didn't hear a sound the following night.

Learning about the flora and fauna

Arranged a half day hike with an English-speaking guide to try to learn a bit more about the trees, shrubs and the birds that we have been seeing for the last week or two. Unfortunately we have been spoiled by the people who lead the Burrenbeo walks – who provide an almost non-stop commentary on a variety of topics.

Our guide – Jony – despite owning the agency and speaking good English – was a little lacking in his knowledge of the trees and shrubs and volunteered very little, although he was happy to answer direct questions when he knew the answer.

However he lead us on a very pleasant 8km walk through the forest on the ridge between the two volcanoes (Villarica and Quetrupillan) and we climbed to the tree line at about 1400m where we saw 6 -8 Magellanic woodpeckers – or Carpinteria as they are know locally.

A night in town

Bustling crowds, bars and restaurants on every corner, a casino and the first English voice we have heard in over 4 weeks. In fact we have only had 5 conversations in English since we got here - a couple of tour guides, a hostal owner, our friend from San Francisco and a resident American who runs his own brewery.

Pucon is the up-market centre of the Lakes tourist industry and is crowded at the height of the season - however it is also fairly relaxed.

Treating ourselves to a night in a boutique hotel in the centre of town and an excellent Italian restaurant. Still hard to adjust to dining times here – we sat down after 8.30pm and were one of the first there. They were still coming into dine – with small kids – as we were leaving after 11.00 pm.

After a bit of shopping for essentials we headed off to find somewhere to stay next to one of the lakes. Two hours later – about 60km driving – and many refusals, we finally found a place looking down over Lago Villarica about 7km from town.

Hot springs

Termas Geometricas was definitely worth the effort of getting there – a night in Coñaripe and a 40km round trip on dirt roads over another mountain pass.

Without question the best hot springs that either of us have visited – and that's quite a few, particularly for Linda.

The springs are located high up in a narrow rock valley – alongside a waterfall and the baths have been constructed along the rocky sides as the valley drops down to the river below. Very simply and imaginatively done with local materials – 14 pools ranging from 35°C to 42°C and a couple of plunge pools and showers at 9°C for the hardy.

No fancy gimmicks, or spa services - jut the pools and the water and the natural setting around you - and a cafe with an excellent ham & cheese toastie!

Another volcano

This time it's Villarica (2840m) with a whisp of smoke leaking from the peak – just as ubiquitous as Osorno was – hard to find a view that doesn't include it somewhere.

We left the Tsunami evacuation signs behind us at the coast and now note the volcano evacuation routes as we climb over mountain passes.

A very pleasant drive – about 225km – some large plains covered in grain ready for harvest , hills covered in trees, more dairy and beef herds (although in smaller numbers) and fruit plantations with plums and nectarines and a variety of berries which we couldn't quite identify. Stopped for coffee in Panguipulli – a town with 14,000 rose bushes decorating the streets and the main plaza – probably the busiest place we have been since we left Santiago!

Hoped we would leave the crowds behind as we headed further into the hills but our stop for tonight at Coñaripe proved us wrong. The road and lakesides are thronged with holidaymakers – busier even than the beach at Con Con Bay. A bit like Skegness on steroids, it seems that the further you drive into the lakes the more crowded – and perhaps tackier – the towns have become. The guesthouse which was recommended by our guide book is very comfortable and has the best shower so far in Chile however their restaurant – which was also highly recommended - is still closed after a fire in a neighbouring building last year.

We are here to visit the Geometricas thermal springs on the edge of the national park and plan an early start tomorrow to beat the crowds and then carry on north to the shores of Lago Villarica

Valdivia

Unlike most towns and cities here, Valdivia's centre is not the Plaza de Armas but its waterfront where three rivers come together on their way to the sea. The main market - fish on one side, fruit and veg on the other - is the big attraction on the quayside and there is little else in the city centre other than another modern concrete cathedral.

Our base on the Isla Teja proved ideal as we were in walking distance of the two main museums and the botanical gardens which surround the university campus. The museums show just how much the German immigrants shaped the city and its business and their involvement in education and science.

The confluence of the rivers means that there are vast areas of wetlands and a great variety of birdlife.

It was also one of the most successful ports under the Spanish - the system of forts and batteries which they built at the river mouth in 1645 were undefeated until 1820 when a Scottish (of course!) Admiral who was the Commander in Chief of the fledgling Chilean navy managed to breach the defences and capture the city on behalf of the new republic.

When we went to visit the forts this morning, we drove into a fog bank which dropped the temperature by about 15 degrees C and cut short our visit. As an alternative we investigated a couple of artisan breweries - probably the most enduring evidence of the German immigrants. The most successful - Kunstmann - offered a tasting of their 10 different beers - a very commercial setup - and also one of my personal favourites - Torobayo.

Decided to skip the Jetski championships which were taking place in town and settled for a cooling libation on our balcony watching another sunset.

We are back on the road tomorrow heading inland to more lakes, volcanos and hot springs.

On the road again

Time to head for warmer weather – while yesterday was a bright sunny day and today looks similar, it gets quite cool at night – not as bad as the south of England this week – but still cool enough to welcome the extra blankets on the bed.

We are heading north to Valdivia – about 220km – and our route initially along the northside of the lake takes us through an area that was colonised by German immigrants in the mid 19^th century. This is the heart of Chile's dairy industry and we saw some huge dairy herds along the way - and a fair few beef cattle as well.

Stopped in Osorno for coffee and a look at a very interesting modern concrete cathedral with a lattice bell tower. Beautiful frontage with mosaic representations of the 12 apostles.

Then it was onto the Panamerican for an hour or so before turning towards the coast and the old colonial city of Valdivia – although there was not much of the old city left after the 1960 earthquake and Tsunami.

Arriving on the day that the city celebrated its 460 anniversary probably explained why it had proved impossible to book any accommodation in advance. However it was probably as well since we found a very nice apartment on the Isla Teja – across the river from the city centre – with a very friendly landlady who spoke Spanish slowly so I could understand her!

More water

On the eastern side of Osorno we drove along the banks of the Rio Petrohue which was diverted by a lava flow some time ago and has resulted in an impressive set of waterfalls.

There was a Jetboat offering rides through the rapids below the falls, but we settled for the more sedate cruise on Lago Todos Los Santos which stretches almost to the border with Argentina and two more volcanos – Troncador (3460m) and Puntiagudo (2493m).

Despite the excellent roads around the lake, there is about 6km of dirt track leading to the falls and the lake – a practical solution since it is washed out in three of four places every spring by the melt water coming off Osorno. Judging by the flow now in the height of summer, it must be pretty impressive at its peak.

Clear skies and Sunshine

Clear skies overnight meant that it was crisp and cool this morning – the gas heater was on to warm the cabin before Linda would venture out of bed. However this also meant that we could watch the full moon setting on the lake and see the Volcano with the rising sun lighting the snow on the peak.

Despite the summer weather, Osorno, which is over 2650m, is snow covered for about 650m all year round.

Took advantage of the clear conditions and headed out fairly early on the road up the side of the mountain. You can drive 14km on paved road to a visitor centre at 1000m and the views of the lake and the surrounding mountains and volcanoes were tremendous. In addition we were the only people there – didn't see another vehicle until we were almost back down at the lake.

Stopped to see a small lake -Laguna Verde -which is almost emerald green because of a micro algae in the water and had our first real problem of the trip when Linda's Nikon dropped on the ground and suffered some serious damage – not sure if we can do anything while we are here – may have to rely on the pocket camera until we get home now.

Ensenada

Found a very smart restaurant for dinner on our first night and a very pleasant meal – although there was only one other couple in the place – Chilenos appear to eat their main meal around lunch time (2.00-4.00pm) even on holiday.

Great views of the Volcano as the moon rose, but we woke to find that someone had wrapped it in thick cloud and mist and the wind was whipping the lake into a frenzy. Forgot to mention that Lago Llanquihue is more inland sea than lake – at 870 square kilometres it is slightly larger than the whole of the Burren.

Plan B entailed a trip into Puerto Varas for some food shopping and sightseeing and lunch.

Peter was based in Puerto Varas for more than a year when he was working here and we had both formed the impression that it was a sort of one-horse place with little to see or do – guess we misunderstood as it turned out to be very pleasant – great views across the lake and lots going on. Managed a bit of shopping and bought the necessary supplies, had a look at the Cathedral and an excellent lunch – best pasta for some time.

By the time we got on the road home the rain had started and it stayed that way for the rest of the day, only clearing just before sunset.

Leaving Chiloe

By the time we were back in the hotel after our curanto, the mist and rain had returned, Wales had beaten Ireland at Lansdowne Road and we spent the evening watching the Superbowl with a bottle of Carmenere and a new-found friend from San Francisco.

Early start to get to the pinguinera in time for the first boat trip - more dirt roads and this time we were grateful for our four-wheel drive. As the tide was out, we saw a good selection of waders on the way - including a couple of Black-faced Ibis.

Met a very friendly guide and boat driver and enjoyed a trip around the Islotes de Punihuil where there are three penguin colonies – mostly Magellanic Penguins but a few Humboldt's as well. We were also entertained by a Sea Otter who surfaced alongside our boat and lay on his back while breakfasting on a spiny crab and by a variety of cormorants.

Then it was back on the road heading north for PuertoVaras and the start of the lakes. Decided to skip the town and continue along the lakeshore until we reached Ensenada which lays at the corner of lake Llaniquehue in the shadow of the Osorno Volcano – which we had seen from the plane on our flight south and which dominates almost everything in the area. Found a comfortable cabin on the lakeside for a few days and settled into enjoy the sunshine

.

Just like home!

The changeable weather stayed with us for the rest of our stay on the Island and limited some of the things we wanted to do - had planned an early morning start today to visit the Penguin colonies at Punihuil but a heavy mist and rain made it impossible. Instead, we drove to the northen-most point to visit the ruins of a Spanish fort which was built in the 17^th century. After driving 37 km -18 on dirt roads - we discovered it was closed for major restoration works -you think they could have made some mention of this on the 10-12 signs showing the way!

It wasn't a completely wasted trip because we found a little wooden shack on the side of the water serving Curanto al Hoyo - the local speciality - Fill a deep pit with hot rocks add chunks of smoked bacon, sausage, potatoes, dumplings and broad beans then mussels and clams and cover with Gunnera leaves. As the heat cooks the shellfish, they open and the liquid drops on the rocks and steams the meat and veg. We managed one portion between us for lunch!

Plus ca change, ......

La Grande Isla de Chiloe could hardly be more removed from County Clare and there are noticeable differences, but there are a surprising number of similarities.

On our first day here we noticed Fuchsia, Montbretia, Selfheal, Cotoneaster, Berberis, Gorse, buttercups, daisies, common vetch and many other plants which are common to both.

In addition there is almost no arable farming - apart from the substantial vegetable gardens and polytunnels.

While there are some (Friesian) dairy herds, the bulk of the cattle seems to be suckler cows with calves being fattened for the beef market. There are also good number of sheep and a few dairy goats.

The landscape is not dissimilar - with substantial evidence of glaciation but the geology is completely different - no Limestone here - and all the water is on the surface in lakes and rivers and bogs.

On Friday we walked in the National Park of Chiloe at Chanquin and while noticing the similarities we really appreciated the differences - there is a substantial covering of trees and most are varieties that we would not see at home.

However just to make us feel settled, the rain started at about lunch time and by 4.00pm was almost torrential -more than 25mm in 2 hours. However by 6.00pm, the sun was shining and there was not a cloud in the sky.

Puerto Montt and beyond

We were on the left side of the plane heading south and had fabulous views of the snow-capped Andes and the lakes and a couple of smoking volcanoes. Arrived to a sunny but slightly cooler temperature (around 19C) to pick up our pre-booked rental car.

Being high season, there were very few cars on offer from any of the hire companies and our Toyota saloon somehow morphed into a Nissan X-trail (which shows 55,000km but looks like it may had done 155,000)which was the only vehicle left.

180km on the Pan-American and a 20minute ferry journey and we arrived in Castro which is the capital of the 'Grand Isle' of Chiloe.

What is it about islands that their inhabitants always seem slightly odd? Whether it's Newfoundland, Lewis or Tasmania, there always seems to be that certain something that marks them out as different.

There is always one!

We had a very pleasant evening at Patio Bellavista in Santiago and got a good sleep before our 07.00 wake up call and an early breakfast.

We took a private taxi in from the airport last night since it had been a long day, and I arranged for the driver to pick us up at 08.00 for the return journey at an agreed fare of 10,000 pesos (about £14). He arrived as agreed and made good time on the road but then pulled over on the hard shoulder on the airport approach road to announce that the fare was now 13,000. We had a somewhat heated discussion during which I called him a bandido and used some words I have only heard in an Almodovar movie. After I paid him 11,000 he finished the journey and dropped us off at the terminal without a further word.

Thankfully our check-in was seamless and there was a Starbucks in the departure lounge so I could calm down and prepare myself for the 40 or so aged Americans who were on the flight with us to Puerto Montt. Two of them began a conversation as we started down the jetway and by the time we boarded the plane I knew their home addresses, golf handicaps and approximate net worth!

Best laid plans

Sitting in the departure lounge at La Serena waiting for our rearranged flight to Santiago. Unfortunately there was fog first thing this morning and our inbound aircraft could not depart from Antofagasta.

This means that we cannot get to Puerto Montt today. So off to Santiago for another night and a morning flight to Puerto Montt tomorrow. Another challenge to my limited Espanol since the girl at the check -in desk had no English but she had a pretty smile and was as helpful as she could be. Guess that's just one of the joys of travel.

Sense of humour being challenged slightly as we hear that our rearranged flight is now delayed for at least 90 mins. By which time we will have been in the airport for nearly 8 hours. Had planned an alcohol-free day but may have to invoke force-majeure!

Finally made it to Santiago – off to Patio Bellavista for a cold beer. I realise that the Scottish government has suggested that it is advisable to have a regular alcohol-free day to protect the health but I am sure there will be another day this year when I can follow their advice.

A night on the town – La Serena

As many of you know, a good dinner is the essential basis of a night out for Linda and I and we were not disappointed this evening when we dined at La Casona del Guaton - one of the best Parillada restaurants in town. The steaks were excellent and cooked to perfection – despite Linda's concerns at the length of time they were on the grill. In addition, our waiter, who was as attentive and helpful as could be, was the spitting image of one of our neighbours at Moyhill.

Our fellow customers provided some additional entertainment but the highlight was the delivery of Linda's cafe cortado. First the waiter delivered our cups and the tub of Nescafe powder and then returned with a pot of hot water and a jug of warm milk. After Linda had spooned out a measure of instant coffee to her liking, the waiter then spent 2-3minutes mixing in a small amount of milk followed by some hot water and then topped off with more hot water – well worth his tip and LP enjoyed the coffee as well.

Our plan to continue for a nightcap and some music at the local Club de Jazz was derailed when we discovered that it is only open at the weekends. Home for a glass of Pisco and bed as we have to be on the road fairly early tomorrow.

Sightseeing in La Serena

Most of the sights are walking around the streets – best people watching for some time – but there is a very smart Plaza and a couple of museums – archaeology and mineralogy - and 29 churches (seems excessive for the population but apparently this was a staging post for clergy travelling between Santiago and Lima and each order had to have their own premises).
Iglesia San Agustin (built originally by the Jesuits but taken over by the Augustines when the Jesuits were expelled) had some very good modern stained glass. Linda's comment on seeing the very ornate statue of Our Lady -'there's yur wumin!' shows that you can take the girl out of Coatbridge but not....!

Taking advantage of the sunshine and warm weather in the garden at our apartment – it is overcast and cool with the threat of rain down south in Puerto Montt and the island of Chiloe where we will be for the next week or so

Estoy Jubilado!

My new favourite Spanish phrase – sounds so much better than 'I'm retired'! Can't imagine how I haven't discovered this before.

Assume the word comes from Latin – therefore jubile is joy and jubilate is shout for joy – seems fairly apt to me! Could even go as far as Psalm 100 – Jubilate Deo – but maybe that's a step too far.

Many of the places that we have stayed in the last week or so have had little or no English and one of the standard questions on the hotel registration form is 'occupation' so I had to come up with an answer. Now I say it to everyone whether they ask or not!

Two weeks in Chile already!

At the end of our second week we are here in an apartment at Hostal Balmaceda in La Serena after a fairly speedy - and slightly hair-raising - bus trip down the valley from Pisco Elqui this afternoon.
Our trip to the Fundo Los Nichos Pisco distillery was almost as good as my recent visit to Auchentoshan distillery outside Dumbarton with Peter. Our guide spoke excellent English and was very knowledgeable and the 3yr old 40° was extremely smooth - as was their sweet dessert wine.
The cycle ride down the length of valley was a bit warm but the breathtaking scenery compensated for the few hills we had to climb up. This really is a magical place only slightly marred by the lively parties in the campsite across the road which went on for most of the night on both Friday and Saturday - we could have coped with that if it hadn't been for the rooster in the garden next door who started crowing at 4.00am and kept going until 7.00!
I'd have put him in the pot if I could have caught him.
We are back on the coast and the temperature has dropped by about 6°C which is pleasant in the afternoon and cool after dark. We are here for a couple of days to catch up on laundry etc and finalise the arrangements for the next part of our trip as we head South to Puerto Montt and Chiloe.

The Elqui Valley

Sitting by the pool at our cabana this evening – just after 5.00pm and still around 24C with a light cooling breeze – trying to decide what to drink.
Promised myself that I would write something for the blog before ordering a drink since we started on the hard stuff early today when we did the distillery tour at Pisco Capel – the largest producer in the country.
Unfortunately they could not provide an english-speaking guide so Linda had to suffer my translation of the explanation given by our pretty Chilena. Luckily I have visited enough distilleries that I could follow most of the technical stuff ! A quick visit to the tasting room for a drop of very smooth 40° Alta del Carmen and back into town for a go-faster haircut.
Then it was on to the local bus for a drive further up the valley to Pisco Elqui where we are staying for a few days. 1200M above sea-level and surrounded by the foothills of the Andes which rise 2-3000m above us, Pisco Elqui is the heart of the region where they grow the grapes for the Pisco production and is also a very popular holiday destination with plenty of hotels, cabanas, campsites restaurants etc. It's a very pretty place – an oasis of green nestled between the arid, brown mountains.
Have persuaded Linda to join me on a bike ride tomorrow up the valley to Los Nichos and one of the oldest private Pisco distilleries in the country and arranged a tour in English so she will get a proper explanation this time – I am sure the tasting will give us the energy boost we will need for the ride home!

The Sky at Night

Patrick Moore himself could not have done a better job of helping us identify the stars and planets and constellations than our guide Ruis at the Cerro Mamalluca observatory at Vicuna last night – and we got to see the craters on the Moon and the 2 stripes and moons on Jupiter through the telescope as well, amazing stuff.
And what a contrast from Santiago – to see such a wide open night sky without a cloud or any light pollution. After a day of travelling (three taxis, one flight and a 60km local bus journey) it was definitely the highlight of the trip so far!

The observatory with a 40cm telescope was developed and operated by the local council as a public facility and well organised. Judging by the numbers there last night -in three shifts – it must be a successful venture.
The north of Chile is home to some of the biggest telescopes in the world and the EU is currently building a 40 metre telescope in the mountains of the Atacama. Probably able to see the golf balls that the astronauts left on the moon.

Burns night with a difference

Unfortunately our plan to bring along a Haggis to allow us to celebrate tonight were disrupted by US Customs food importation regulations - even though we were only in transit. As a result we are forced to celebrate with an Empanada de Pino (a sort of Chilean cornish pasty) and a glass of excellent 40°Pisco.
Not quite up to the usual standards but sometimes one must make sacrifices for the sake of the travel experience!

A Unique experience?

In my travels I have come across more than a few girly bars – you know the sort of thing scantily clad young ladies trying to encourage sad old buggars to spend their last penny on the demon drink – and perhaps other services. I may even have frequented one or two in my time, all in the line of business of course.

However Santiago is the only place in the world where I have seen girly coffee bars – perhaps that would be a USP for a rival to Starbucks or Costa in the City of London or downtown Toronto?

Seriously though, the main stream cafés – drink your coffee standing up, mostly male clientele etc – have young ladies in very tight short lycra dresses who deliver the coffee from the barista to the customer and seem to do little else but chat up the customers and show off the outline of their thongs – is this becoming an obsession???

The harder core coffee bars have blacked out windows, low lighting levels and ladies serving the tables in what appeared (from a distance of course) to be little more than their underwear.

The coffee of course is excellent!

Big City

A few days in Santiago is probably enough – but a great reminder why I enjoy being in cities for a while with the crush of life and the vitality. With a population of around 6 million, it is a busy place with a great public transport system – including a modern metro which was uncomfortably warm at the end of the rush hour last night – a couple of good museums and a lot of very grand churches.

There also seems to be a very large police presence – carabinieri on every corner and squads on standby in buses around many a street corner. However they are as friendly as the rest of the population and perhaps help to enforce the sense of safety and security around the heart of the city!

There are also dozens of good restaurants and bars – went to Patio Bellavista last night to eat and drink – a sort of modern Covent Garden with street entertainers and music in the open spaces and hordes of people. Tried to check out one of the Irish bars but found it closed for the evening but still had a good time in the bar next door followed by an excellent meal and a session in the Jazz Bar listening to a Blues group.

It is also seriously warm – 33degC or more – although very dry. Not the uncomfortable humidity of Bangkok but still too hot to be out in the sun for too long. We are flying north tomorrow morning to La Serena for a week in the Limari and Elqui valleys – wine, pisco, star-gazing at an observatory, slightly cooler temperatures and much more we hope.

Moving on again

As promised Sunday was a bit of a late start – we managed breakfast just before they opened the hotel bar-café for lunch. Then off for a bit of sightseeing – a boat trip around the port and the bay followed by a couple of hours in the excellent Naval Museum. Two large cruise ships in port – Insignia and Deutchsland – watched them sail in the evening as we were having dinner.
Then preparing for our departure on Monday for Santiago – after the cost of our drinks and dinners in Valparaiso we settled for the SuperClass bus service which took 90 mins and cost about £5 each. Excellent service which may encourage us to use the buses a little more.
Santiago is different again – a very busy capital City with lots of hustle and bustle and traffic noise. We are staying in a serviced apartment here for the next three days so we have a bit more space and can do a bit of catering for ourselves (Waitrose equivalent only a few blocks away and a botilleria even closer).

Pisco

Another first when we followed dinner on Saturday night with a digestif in the Bar de Pisco .
Our first introduction to Pisco (Chile's national spirit – a distilled grape juice)was at home where Gerry used to make us Pisco Sours as an aperitif and I had assumed that it was just the local Chilean or Peruvian firewater only to be mixed in cocktails.
How wrong can you be – like Whiskey or Whisky or Brandy or Grappa or Tequila there is a wide variety of qualities and tastes. As you would expect, the Bar de Pisco had a wonderful selection and while Linda settled for a cocktail I went straight for the smooth sipping stuff. So good we went back again on Sunday as well and got some tips on which Pisco distilleries to visit when we are in the Elqui valley next week.
You may hear more on this!

Valparaiso

Definitely our kind of city – some great restaurants, cafés and bars.
For Saturday night we followed a 'Rough Guide' recommendation and headed for Café Vinilo for some Chileno food. Unfortunately they did not have the conejo (rabbit in white wine) which is one of their signature dishes but Linda had an excellent arollado of pork with a orange and mint mash while I had lengua de vacuna (cow's tongue) in a mustard sauce with a risotto of split corn which was just as good – impressed by their own brew of beer and the best bottle of Carmenere we have tasted (and the most expensive). Another very friendly welcoming place – listening to music from the Platters, and Abba and some Chilean folk group – all on vinyl. Even Peter B-C would have been impressed with the decks they were using – although the DJ wasn't going to start until 11.00pm.

The musical entertainment in our hotel was … amusing and entertaining. A lady singer of a certain age with a reasonable voice who sang in Spanish, French and English in the style of Ella or Piaf. By the time we left at 2.00am the show had degenerated into a sort of live Karaoke with contributions from most of the clientele – think Linda was keen to get me out of the room before I offered 'The Wild Rover'. Heard the end of the show from our room and settled down to sleep only to be kept awake by a group of drummers in the Plaza at the bottom of the hill who kept going until dawn – the second weekend in a row that I've made it through the night without sleep!

Moving on

After nearly a week in a small beach resort, we were ready to move on today.
Our taxi driver for the 40 min trip to Valparaiso was very friendly but he paid scant regard to the speed limits or other road users. We managed to find our hotel with little problem and we were treated to a cup of coffee on the deck overlooking the city and bay while they finished getting our room ready.

The Brighton B&B is the bright orange building sitting on the side of Cerro Concepcion -one of the three dozen or so hills upon which the City is built. The slightly precarious feeling was enhanced when we saw the supporting beam for the cafe deck above us which runs diagonally through our bathroom. However the staff have been very friendly and as long as we are the last ones to leave the party, then the noise upstairs should not disturb us!

Strange to be back in a city again and surrounded by European and N American tourists after a week of only Chilenos and Argentines. Our first walk introduced us to the hills, and the pasajes and the escaleras which are a necessary part of life here – good for the calf muscles at least. It is also interesting to be looking out over the country's main port – both commercial and military – almost felt like being back at work!

There is a wide choice of restaurants within a short walk of our hotel and we have a table booked here in the bar for the live music which starts at 11.00pm.Could be a late start for Sunday morning.

Birds on the beach

Thankfully not all the birds on the beach at ConCon are wearing thongs!

On our morning walks we have seen a great variety of sea birds and waders. Some are similar to those at home – oystercatchers, sanderlings, cormorants, whimbrel and curlews while some are unlikely to be seen on the Flaggy shore – Peruvian Pelicans, Snowy Egret, black-backed stilts, sandpipers, brown skua, lesser yellow legs, southern lapwings and a flock of Roseate Terns.
We also saw a couple of turkey vultures feasting on a dead seal along with a small raptor ( still to be identified) tucking into a dead Humboldt Penguin. All this in the space of a couple of hours on the beach!

Chile - First Impressions

Safe, secure, everything seems to work - so far; expensive, friendly(ish), warm weather at the coast but not too hot, good fish and seafood (haven't tasted the meat yet but looking forward to some excellent beef), expensive (did I say that already - £2 for a bottle of beer in the bars and restaurants, same for a glass of wine and a bit more for cocktails). Good road system and excellent transport links, everywhere offers good wi-fi.

ConCon bay where we are spending our first week to settle in to the local customs, language, etc is about 33deg South - on the northern edge of the Central Valley. It is a wide bay with a very gently sloping sandy beach - very like Lahinch and ideal for surfers (mostly beginners). For about 30km south of us the coast is almost continuous beach resorts very popular with locals and also a lot of Argentines - beaches get busy around midday and stay that way until dusk (9pm) - best European example we can remember is Sitges - not much personal space here.

We are here until Saturday when we head for some city life to Valparaiso for the weekend and then on to Santiago for a few days next week. Then we fly north to La Serena - the Elqui valley, wine, Pisco, observatories, more beaches and ...

Fat-bottomed girls

As you can imagine, I see very few bottoms in thongs during the year at Moyhill - even on the beach at Lahinch they are rare - perhaps due to the weather.

The beach at ConCon bay is covered in them for most of the day - hard to see the sand at times. However despite the few that are pert and round like a ripe peach and glistening in the sun, the majority are of a somewhat larger size - ranging from 'does she not have a mirror at home' to 'that would be a good place to park my bike'!

Flying South

Easy check-in and boarding although the flight was completely full. After a 90min delay sitting on the plane waiting for cargo containers to be loaded it was -17C when we were at the de-icing station just before take off.

The delay meant that we arrived in Santiago during the immigration officers lunch break. By the time they returned to work there were around 2500 people in the queue who greeted them with a slow handclap.

When we walked out of the terminal in Santiago it was 32C. Luckily our taxi to Con Con was air-conditioned and it was only about 26C by the time we arrived at the coast. Our apartment looks over the beach which was quite busy when we arrived.

After dinner in a local fish restaurant we went to sleep listening to the waves breaking on the long sandy shore and when we woke in the morning the beach was deserted – perfect for a morning stroll!

Toronto in the snow

Woke to a light dusting of snow – temperature dropped to -10C – now I understand why people have heated car seats! Linda went shopping for a new bikini without success then back to Jim & Suzanne's to relax before their Friday night Pub-Night (an evening of unlimited alcohol consumption hosted by each neighbour in turn);
We got to bed before dawn but only just.


I made it out of bed in time for lunch on Saturday and after a brief -very chilly - walk around the block, we went to see Braeden's ice hockey game – our attendance obviously inspired the whole team as they won 3-1 against a team several places above them in the league.
Then it was time for an early dinner before heading for the airport and our midnight flight to Santiago.

Leaving Moyhill

Earlier start than intended - my phone rang at 0410 (must have been a wrong number) I assumed it was my 0520 alarm and was up and straight in the shower. After about 5 mins Linda pointed out my mistake – in her usual endearing fashion – and told me to keep quiet for another hour.
It was wet and misty as we left Moyhill and pretty much the same when we arrived in at Jim & Suzanne's in Toronto 17 hours later – easy, uneventful journey -US pre-clearance in Shannon was a real treat – even got a laugh with the US Immigraton officer – the flight wasn't crowded and the connection via Newark worked well.

That Joni Mitchell moment

Our bag is are packed and we're ready to go.

Taxi's coming at 6.15 in the morning to take us to Shannon as we start our trip to Chile - with a short detour via Toronto to visit the CC & Coke drinking BMW driving Banker cousin.

For all those people who have commented or complained about the lack of my blog posts for the last 6 months I have resolved to do better this year.

watch this space!