Back home

We arrived back at Moyhill at lunch time today - 47 days after we left. 6 flights, 2 hire cars, 22 different beds, 34 restaurants and innumerable wine tastings.
Our flight from Johannesburg on SAA was probably the best long-haul flight for some years, with a cheerful and efficient cabin crew who seemed to care about their passengers.
After such a great trip, it was also good to be home which was just as we left it - although decidedly drier. There has been no rain here for about 10 days - the longest dry period in Clare since June 2012 - and the forecast is for another week or so.
Guess I will have to get started on the vegetable beds this week - back to reality with a bang!

The journey home

Started yesterday morning from Robertson – 2 hours on the road to Cape Town Airport - Amazing drive through the Huguenot Pass and Tunnel

Our flight to Johannesburg was fairly ordinary – although being served a meal and a drink on a short haul flight was a bit of a novelty. Then we took the new GauTrain from the Airport to Sandton  - only 12 minutes, avoided the traffic and didn't have to deal with the airport taxi drivers again - definitely the best route to and from the airport.

Big thanks again to Sue who collected us and gave us a bed for the night and fed us dinner in return for accompanying her to a 'girly' movie. Seemed like a fair deal to me

Spent Monday relaxing in the garden while she was busy with her studies - persuaded her to take a break at lunchtime - and then she dropped us back at Sandton for the return journey to the airport this evening.

One of the birds we have seen frequently have been European Barn swallows and over the last couple of weeks they have started to gather together on the telephone lines getting ready for their journey home. Hopefully some of them are Irish swallows and we can look forward to seeing them at Moyhill in the near future.

The best wine and food?

Our visit to the Arendsig Winery yesterday was the perfect end to our holiday in South Africa – a beautiful location, warm sunny weather, excellent wines and food and of course the friendly welcome and attention throughout the visit.

We enjoyed the walk through the vines with Lourens van der Westhuizen – the owner and winemaker - and his passionate descriptions of the land and the grapes and the wines. 

We were also treated to canapes to match the wines we were tasting and a light lunch which was catered by Axel from Mo and Rose restaurant. 

It was great to end our trip in such warm, friendly and knowledgeable company and to know that we can come back again on our next trip!

Robertson

We are staying in a very pleasant guest house in Robertson, which is the heart of the Breede River wineries.

I imagined that the town was named in honour of some kilt-wearing ancestor of Neil's who wandered through the valley swinging a claymore as part of a proud Scottish regiment engaged in expanding the great British Empire. 

The reality is that he was Dr William Robertson and a Scottish minister of the Dutch Reformed Church.

Guess I have read too many Sharpe novels.

More wine tasting

We decided to spend our last weekend back in the winelands – this time the Breede River valley – and join in the 'Hands-on Harvest' celebrations which mark the start of this year's grape picking.

Started yesterday with a tasting of sparkling wines at Graham Beck – our current SA favourite – followed by an excellent lunch at Rooiberg.

Last night there was a 5 course tasting dinner at Jan Harmsgat – the food was quite good, the wines mediocre, the service slow and disorganised and our host spent more time talking about himself and his recent divorce than he did about the wines and then disappeared after introductions and was never seen again (he may feature in a later blog item!)

This morning we are off to Arendsig for a 'canape' tour of the winery followed by a light lunch and accompanying wines alongside the river.

Decided this would suit us better than actually picking grapes and getting into the vat for bit of stomping!

The Birds

Where is Hitchcock when you need him?

After our day at De Hoop, the list of bird species for our trip has now passed 100 – 105 actually - and still counting with 3 days to go. Linda's guide to the Birds of Southern Africa is looking decidely well-thumbed.  

Lady Anglers

After the Marlin fishermen and the Christian bikers, we now have the SA National Ladies Shore Angling championships. There must be 50 or 60 of them fishing on the beach – complete with support teams and 4x4 trucks racing along the sand..

Marauder

Each day, as we walk along the beach, we watch the efforts of the owners and their friends and contractors as they try to get the vessel refloated. Local gossip puts the value in the region of $1,500,000 and suggests that the owner has no hull insurance – that would perhaps explain the way they have approached the salvage so far.

I was tempted to offer some advice but Linda persuaded me to exercise discretion. However I was pleased to note this afternoon that they are following my suggestions – even if I never actually stated them aloud.

I expect the boat will be refloated in the next day or so without fail.

Afrikaans

It is now 10 days since we left Cape Town and we have travelled deeper into Afrikaans territory. I hadn't realised that it is more widely spoken than English.

In Struisbaai people address you first in Afrikaans and only switch to English when they see the blank look on your face. They are however very friendly – just like County Clare – everyone always has a cheery welcome.

Linda was addressed by a couple of kids – 7 or 8 perhaps – on the pier last week and when she replied it appeared that they could not understand English.

This probably emphasises the fact that the Western Cape – with the exception of Cape Town – feels very different from the rest of South Africa.

De Hoop Nature Reserve

We had originally planned to spend three nights here on an organised walking tour but the reservations staff were so unhelpful that we were unable to get a booking that suited our dates.

However since we are now only 80km away, we decided it was worth a day trip and headed off early this morning. I hadn't realised that about 50km each way was on a gravel road but if I wash all the dust off the car tomorrow I'm sure the rental company will never notice!

The reserve itself was well worth the effort. As soon as we arrived we saw a family of ostrich, Ma, Pa & 8 chicks – which we had not encountered anywhere else – and Eland and Bontebok. 

We followed one of their walking trails alongside the lake and spent at least three hours trying to identify the hordes of herons, waders, ducks and other species along the shore and out on the water too.

Had a great day and left feeling sorry that our original plan had been unsuccessful. Then just as icing on the cake, we came across a pair of Blue Crane - SA's national bird – for the first time as well.

Shipwrecks

The Shipwreck museum in Bredasdorp tells the story of some of the hundreds of vessels which have been wrecked on this coast over the years including the Birkenhead which was the first time that the idea of 'women and children first' was applied. It was an interesting place to spend a couple of hours on a sunny day when it was too hot to be outside.

Returning to Struisbaai to settle into our beachfront house, we discovered that we had a 'shipwreck' almost directly in front of the house.

One of the big sports fishing boats – Marauder - which had been moored in the bay had broken its moorings and been washed up on the beach in the early hours of Sunday morning and we spent a few hours watching the efforts – so far unsuccessful – to refloat it.

  

Struisbaii

There is a small working harbour which is home to twenty or so day fishing boats and a few sports fishermen.

We watched them landing their catch on Friday evening – boxes full of yellow-tail - which was being sold off the quay to local dealers, restaurants and residents. Think we have eaten a bit of this catch over the weekend.

At high tide, the sting rays come right up to the waters edge -they have got used to being hand fed bait by locals and visitors alike. These are big rays – at least 1 metre across – and remembering the story of Steve Irwin, I decided to watch from the quayside.

Ocean Art House

Cape Agulhas

Sunday morning was overcast with a strong breeze – but still warm. Perfect conditions for our walk along the coast. Fortified by Amanda's cooked breakfast – the first in nearly two weeks – we drove to the Lighthouse and then set off on foot along the boardwalk to the marker at the southernmost point.

From there it was a further 2 km to the wreck of the Meisho Maru and the start of the Rasperpunt Trail which follows the coast for a further 2 km and then heads inland to return along the hilltop overlooking the point. The Fynbos terrain is so different from anything we have seen in our travels here – similar in some ways to the Burren but quite unique in others.

We are still clocking up new bird species – total is now over 80 – and today we found Cape Bulbul, the Cape Weaver, a scarlet banded sunbird and of course the Black African Oystercatcher which posed for Linda's camera. 

By the time we got back to the car we had covered about 12 km and felt we had earned the cooling beverage and steak sandwich at Seagulls pub.

Staying on

As a complete contrast, our second place in L'Agulhas is the Ocean Art House which is a haven of tranquility. The house is owned by a German couple who are well known artists and excellently managed by two South African ladies. Amanda was on duty for our stay and took excellent care of us.

After our few days here, we have decided to extend our stay in the area – the bikers and fishermen will all be gone by Sunday – and we have managed to find a very comfortable beachfront house which is within our budget– it is off season after all - and well away from any 4-way stop signs.

Amazing how noise travels

Our room for Friday night has an extensive ocean view which is only broken by the roof line of a large tented construction - about the size of a three ring circus or perhaps an Essex wedding - which turns out to be the entertainment venue for our Christian biker friends. 

While they may not have the violent and criminal reputation of their counterparts in the Hells Angels, they do appear to have a similar taste in loud music and even louder motorcycles. The presence of a 4-way stop sign just across the road from our room gives them all the opportunity to demonstrate just how much noise they can make.

However they were generally very considerate in that most of the loud noise stopped around 11.00pm and I didn't hear a motorcycle again until after 7.00 this morning.

Thankfully our home for the next two nights is in a more peaceful neighbourhood.

Two Oceans

Slightly disappointed to find that the lighthouse at Cape Agulhas was closed for refurbishment but the walk to the point was well worth it – some great waves breaking on the rocks and a couple of passing ships to provide interest.

There is also a 6km walking trail through the amazing Fynbos terrain which we plan to investigate in the next few days – our walk today was slightly disrupted by a loud – somewhat large - lady who was being filmed for something or other and hogged the prime position by the 'southern most point' marker for a bit too long. However, just as I felt a 'Jimmy C' moment coming on, she decided to finish and move away – probably for the best.

The Beach - again

Our drive to Struisbaai – about 5km from Cape Agulhas – took us over three passes – Franschoek, Viljoen and Houhoek – and then along the Atlantic coast from Hermanus to Gaansbaai. Some amazing scenery and contrasts – particularly the enormous fruit plantations between Villiersdorp and Elgin. Trees loaded with apples, pears, plums, olives and others which we couldn't identify.

We are on the Indian Ocean here and the water is a wonderful turquoise colour – although still a little on the cool side.

Had a bit of problem arranging our accommodation here – we are in two different places for our planned 4 nights – but on arrival we discovered that we are competing with a marlin fishing festival and a Freedom Road Rally by the Christian Motorcycle Association from Cape Town. Crowds of large men on even larger bikes but no sign of a Death's Head badge anywhere! Looking forward to Friday night in the local hostelry – the Michael Collins Inn – wonder how my orange shirt will go down?

Wines & Food

Have tasted some excellent Pinotages from a number of wineries and some very good Chenin  and Sauvignon Blanc. They also have excellent rosé brut sparkling – the Graham Beck is a personal favourite. The biggest surprise was the Zinfandel from Glen Carlou whose owners also have wineries in the Napa valley. It was as good as anything I have tasted from the southern hemisphere.

Have also found some good local cheeses, locally smoked trout, mussels from Saldanha Bay, and calamari from the Falklands which have all been accompanied by a variety of wines from the valley. 

La Galiniere

Our home in Franschhoek is the best equipped self-catering cottage we have experience for some years – I could probably move in permanently. The friendly welcome from the staff & the owners was very pleasant and the three German shepherds were very friendly in the daytime. 

I must admit to a slight concern on the evening that we returned on foot from a neighbouring restaurant with nothing more than a head-torch to ward them off. However in such situations I am always reassured by the fact that I can still run faster than Linda!

Winelands

Have decided that we can only manage a couple of tastings in the morning before we head for lunch at one of the vignerons. So far we have eaten very well – particularly at Glen Carlou – and tasted some interesting wines. It is hot enough (34C yesterday) to justify a siesta and then a cooling beverage by the pool before heading off for a sunset tasting and then dinner somewhere else.

I think four days of this will be enough – for this week – we are heading for Cape Agulhas - the southenmost point of the continent - tomorrow for a few days on the beach before another spell of the winelands next week.

I think he's vegetarian

Giselle in the rain

The stage of the open air theatre at Maynardville is surrounded by trees which overhang the stage – an appropriately sylvan setting for the first half of Giselle – pity that the rain arrived during the interval so the performance was cancelled and we never got to see the second half.

We found an excellent Thai restaurant in Wynberg – just next to the park if anyone is nearby.

Kirstenbosch, which is celebrating its centenary this year, really is an amazing place – 36 hectares of botanical gardens within 528 hectares of nature reserve. We have visited a couple of times before but it is always worth returning.

Time to move on

Last day in the city and we have picked up a car again so we can visit the Kirstenbosch Botanical gardens this afternoon and then carry on to the open air theatre at Maynardville for a performance of Giselle this evening.

We are heading for the winelands tomorrow, Franschoek first and then perhaps Paarl or Robertson. Will be glad to get away from the Waterfront which is like Gun Wharf and Bluewater shopping centre combined. Far too many people, shops and restaurants – could really be anywhere in the world. It's time to get back on the road.

No Champagne

After dinner Linda had taken us to a bar called Jade - very close to our apartment – for a nightcap. 

The place was advertised as a champagne bar with 'a laid-back crowd'. Arriving at about 11pm, the girls were disappointed to find that there was only enough champagne left for a half glass each – Howard and I were on the Jamesons of which there was a plentiful supply.

The place was full of 'beautiful' people who had clearly spent a lot of time choosing their somewhat eclectic apparel – including one large young chap in a powder blue mankini!

As you can imagine, I fitted right in!

No Sunset

We had arranged to meet up with Sue and Howard for a sunset cruise followed by dinner at Sevruga, but the weather intervened. While the rain had stopped by early afternoon, there was a bank of fog which rolled in as evening approached so the cruises were cancelled. 

Had to sit in a pub for an hour watching France lose to Wales on the big screen. Probably enjoyed watching the crowd of French fans in the bar more than the game itself! 

Good result for Scotland as well.

Cape Town

A busy week here trying to see the major sights of the city. Our walking tour had given us a great introduction and we enjoyed wandering the streets to get the feel of the place. Sticking to our basic rule – cultural stuff between breakfast and lunch and then relaxing in the afternoon in preparation for the evening's entertainment!

We also ate well – there is a wide variety of restaurants and food styles – with Anatoli and the Eastern Food Bazaar being my favourites.

We had bright blue skies every day with temperatures around 29-30C but there was also a strong breeze most days. The boat ride to Robben Island was a bit bumpy – which prompted our guide to suggest cheese and onion crisps as a cure for seasickness!

Unfortunately the weekend brought rain showers and and it was much cooler. Blamed Sue for this because the change in the weather coincided with her arrival with brother Howard.

I'm sure Jimmy C said this first!

Against the flow

Last night, it seemed like the entire population of the city was heading for the Stadium at Green Point, which was built for the 2010 World Cup and is a short walk from our apartment, for a Red Hot Chilli Peppers concert.

 We happened to be returning home from the Waterfront at the time that they were all heading for the stadium – a bit like trying to walk across London Bridge against the incoming tide of commuters.

Finding your way around

Started our visit to Cape Town with a guided city walk led by Ursula Stevens who gave us a great insight into the life of the city and led us to places we would probably not have explored on our own.

Our group of 5 was made up of 3 Scots and 2 from Northern Ireland – small world.

Followed this with a visit to Robben Island – reinforcing some of the things we learned at the Nelson Mandela Exhibition in Johannesburg – and a talk from a former prisoner – Jama – who was sent to Robben Island in 1977 at the age of 18 charged with Terrorism because he helped organise a demonstration against the introduction of Afrikaans into the school curriculum for black children. 

Mother City

Our taxi ride to the airport was much more pleasant – thanks again Sue – and the flight to Cape Town was uneventful except that we managed to be the last passengers to board and had no space in the lockers for our bags.

Bright sunny afternoon as we arrived – with a strong breeze – and we found our way to our apartment without incident. Not exactly what we expected from the website photos but still an acceptable base for the next week as we explore the city.

We are within easy walking distance of most of the attractions and surrounded by restaurants and bars -feeling at home already.

Apartheid Museum

We spent about 3 hours here and could probably go back a couple of more times to take it all in. From the entrance gates for whites and non-whites – your classification is assigned arbitrarily on your entrance ticket – to the stories and films of the demonstrations and repression of the 80's the museum tells a powerful story very well. To be immersed in the stories that one remembers vaguely from news coverage at the time was very moving and really brought home the horror of the whole system.

There was also an exhibition on the life of Nelson Mandela which gave a great insight into his life and times and also showed the human side of a man who is so well respected around the world.

Both of these are a must for anyone coming here.

Johannesburg

After a quiet dinner in a local Italian on Friday, we headed downtown on Saturday morning to the Neighbourgoods Market – a bit like Borough Market on speed – for a little shopping and oysters and champagne.

I have been in Joburg on four previous trips – starting in the mid 80's – but this was the first time I have ever ventured into the centre. There is a really vibrant community and definitely a place to visit again.

Sue had a braai on Saturdayand we met some of her friends for a lively evening and some great food. There was also a little wine and beer which meant that Sunday started a little slower than usual.

We took in the Apartheid Museum on Sunday afternoon and then back home for a bit of relaxing in the garden before dinner in Orient at Melrose Arch.

Old friends, new friends

After our dash through the traffic of the city, arriving in the peace and tranquillity of Sue & Karen's home in Parkview for the weekend was a joy. Unfortunately Karen was travelling but we had a great time with Sue – and Dillon & Stevie (the dogs).

Great Food

For the last few nights Linda has had to put up with my cooking so we were both quite glad to move to Mantenga Lodge and have dinner in their restaurant. The Lodge is a little dated but nonetheless comfortable – everything worked as it should and there was a Pool in the garden in front of our room. The restaurant was excellent – a local specialty of flame cooked beef was both theatrical and very tasty.

Up early for a great breakfast and then on our way to Johannesburg. About 4 hours on the road with a brief stop at the border crossing to reach the airport and drop off the rental car. Then it was only a simple taxi ride to Sue & Karen's home - or so we thought!

Our taxi driver – in his rush to impress us - pulled out to pass a car which had stopped at a pedestrian crossing and almost knocked down a pedestrian. He shouted an apology and kept going only to discover that the car he had passed was an unmarked police which pulled us over within 100 yards. An extremely irate Police Captain then gave him a severe talking too and – because we were in the cab – told him to report to the police station as soon as he had dropped us off.

He took us on a somewhat lengthy detour on the way to Sue's – probably trying to increase the fare by enough to pay off the fine he was anticipating – so now he will also have to deal with the Taxi Commissioner as we took his number and reported him.