Leaving Chiloe

By the time we were back in the hotel after our curanto, the mist and rain had returned, Wales had beaten Ireland at Lansdowne Road and we spent the evening watching the Superbowl with a bottle of Carmenere and a new-found friend from San Francisco.

Early start to get to the pinguinera in time for the first boat trip - more dirt roads and this time we were grateful for our four-wheel drive. As the tide was out, we saw a good selection of waders on the way - including a couple of Black-faced Ibis.

Met a very friendly guide and boat driver and enjoyed a trip around the Islotes de Punihuil where there are three penguin colonies – mostly Magellanic Penguins but a few Humboldt's as well. We were also entertained by a Sea Otter who surfaced alongside our boat and lay on his back while breakfasting on a spiny crab and by a variety of cormorants.

Then it was back on the road heading north for PuertoVaras and the start of the lakes. Decided to skip the town and continue along the lakeshore until we reached Ensenada which lays at the corner of lake Llaniquehue in the shadow of the Osorno Volcano – which we had seen from the plane on our flight south and which dominates almost everything in the area. Found a comfortable cabin on the lakeside for a few days and settled into enjoy the sunshine

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Just like home!

The changeable weather stayed with us for the rest of our stay on the Island and limited some of the things we wanted to do - had planned an early morning start today to visit the Penguin colonies at Punihuil but a heavy mist and rain made it impossible. Instead, we drove to the northen-most point to visit the ruins of a Spanish fort which was built in the 17^th century. After driving 37 km -18 on dirt roads - we discovered it was closed for major restoration works -you think they could have made some mention of this on the 10-12 signs showing the way!

It wasn't a completely wasted trip because we found a little wooden shack on the side of the water serving Curanto al Hoyo - the local speciality - Fill a deep pit with hot rocks add chunks of smoked bacon, sausage, potatoes, dumplings and broad beans then mussels and clams and cover with Gunnera leaves. As the heat cooks the shellfish, they open and the liquid drops on the rocks and steams the meat and veg. We managed one portion between us for lunch!

Plus ca change, ......

La Grande Isla de Chiloe could hardly be more removed from County Clare and there are noticeable differences, but there are a surprising number of similarities.

On our first day here we noticed Fuchsia, Montbretia, Selfheal, Cotoneaster, Berberis, Gorse, buttercups, daisies, common vetch and many other plants which are common to both.

In addition there is almost no arable farming - apart from the substantial vegetable gardens and polytunnels.

While there are some (Friesian) dairy herds, the bulk of the cattle seems to be suckler cows with calves being fattened for the beef market. There are also good number of sheep and a few dairy goats.

The landscape is not dissimilar - with substantial evidence of glaciation but the geology is completely different - no Limestone here - and all the water is on the surface in lakes and rivers and bogs.

On Friday we walked in the National Park of Chiloe at Chanquin and while noticing the similarities we really appreciated the differences - there is a substantial covering of trees and most are varieties that we would not see at home.

However just to make us feel settled, the rain started at about lunch time and by 4.00pm was almost torrential -more than 25mm in 2 hours. However by 6.00pm, the sun was shining and there was not a cloud in the sky.

Puerto Montt and beyond

We were on the left side of the plane heading south and had fabulous views of the snow-capped Andes and the lakes and a couple of smoking volcanoes. Arrived to a sunny but slightly cooler temperature (around 19C) to pick up our pre-booked rental car.

Being high season, there were very few cars on offer from any of the hire companies and our Toyota saloon somehow morphed into a Nissan X-trail (which shows 55,000km but looks like it may had done 155,000)which was the only vehicle left.

180km on the Pan-American and a 20minute ferry journey and we arrived in Castro which is the capital of the 'Grand Isle' of Chiloe.

What is it about islands that their inhabitants always seem slightly odd? Whether it's Newfoundland, Lewis or Tasmania, there always seems to be that certain something that marks them out as different.

There is always one!

We had a very pleasant evening at Patio Bellavista in Santiago and got a good sleep before our 07.00 wake up call and an early breakfast.

We took a private taxi in from the airport last night since it had been a long day, and I arranged for the driver to pick us up at 08.00 for the return journey at an agreed fare of 10,000 pesos (about £14). He arrived as agreed and made good time on the road but then pulled over on the hard shoulder on the airport approach road to announce that the fare was now 13,000. We had a somewhat heated discussion during which I called him a bandido and used some words I have only heard in an Almodovar movie. After I paid him 11,000 he finished the journey and dropped us off at the terminal without a further word.

Thankfully our check-in was seamless and there was a Starbucks in the departure lounge so I could calm down and prepare myself for the 40 or so aged Americans who were on the flight with us to Puerto Montt. Two of them began a conversation as we started down the jetway and by the time we boarded the plane I knew their home addresses, golf handicaps and approximate net worth!

Best laid plans

Sitting in the departure lounge at La Serena waiting for our rearranged flight to Santiago. Unfortunately there was fog first thing this morning and our inbound aircraft could not depart from Antofagasta.

This means that we cannot get to Puerto Montt today. So off to Santiago for another night and a morning flight to Puerto Montt tomorrow. Another challenge to my limited Espanol since the girl at the check -in desk had no English but she had a pretty smile and was as helpful as she could be. Guess that's just one of the joys of travel.

Sense of humour being challenged slightly as we hear that our rearranged flight is now delayed for at least 90 mins. By which time we will have been in the airport for nearly 8 hours. Had planned an alcohol-free day but may have to invoke force-majeure!

Finally made it to Santiago – off to Patio Bellavista for a cold beer. I realise that the Scottish government has suggested that it is advisable to have a regular alcohol-free day to protect the health but I am sure there will be another day this year when I can follow their advice.

A night on the town – La Serena

As many of you know, a good dinner is the essential basis of a night out for Linda and I and we were not disappointed this evening when we dined at La Casona del Guaton - one of the best Parillada restaurants in town. The steaks were excellent and cooked to perfection – despite Linda's concerns at the length of time they were on the grill. In addition, our waiter, who was as attentive and helpful as could be, was the spitting image of one of our neighbours at Moyhill.

Our fellow customers provided some additional entertainment but the highlight was the delivery of Linda's cafe cortado. First the waiter delivered our cups and the tub of Nescafe powder and then returned with a pot of hot water and a jug of warm milk. After Linda had spooned out a measure of instant coffee to her liking, the waiter then spent 2-3minutes mixing in a small amount of milk followed by some hot water and then topped off with more hot water – well worth his tip and LP enjoyed the coffee as well.

Our plan to continue for a nightcap and some music at the local Club de Jazz was derailed when we discovered that it is only open at the weekends. Home for a glass of Pisco and bed as we have to be on the road fairly early tomorrow.