Hot springs

Termas Geometricas was definitely worth the effort of getting there – a night in Coñaripe and a 40km round trip on dirt roads over another mountain pass.

Without question the best hot springs that either of us have visited – and that's quite a few, particularly for Linda.

The springs are located high up in a narrow rock valley – alongside a waterfall and the baths have been constructed along the rocky sides as the valley drops down to the river below. Very simply and imaginatively done with local materials – 14 pools ranging from 35°C to 42°C and a couple of plunge pools and showers at 9°C for the hardy.

No fancy gimmicks, or spa services - jut the pools and the water and the natural setting around you - and a cafe with an excellent ham & cheese toastie!

Another volcano

This time it's Villarica (2840m) with a whisp of smoke leaking from the peak – just as ubiquitous as Osorno was – hard to find a view that doesn't include it somewhere.

We left the Tsunami evacuation signs behind us at the coast and now note the volcano evacuation routes as we climb over mountain passes.

A very pleasant drive – about 225km – some large plains covered in grain ready for harvest , hills covered in trees, more dairy and beef herds (although in smaller numbers) and fruit plantations with plums and nectarines and a variety of berries which we couldn't quite identify. Stopped for coffee in Panguipulli – a town with 14,000 rose bushes decorating the streets and the main plaza – probably the busiest place we have been since we left Santiago!

Hoped we would leave the crowds behind as we headed further into the hills but our stop for tonight at Coñaripe proved us wrong. The road and lakesides are thronged with holidaymakers – busier even than the beach at Con Con Bay. A bit like Skegness on steroids, it seems that the further you drive into the lakes the more crowded – and perhaps tackier – the towns have become. The guesthouse which was recommended by our guide book is very comfortable and has the best shower so far in Chile however their restaurant – which was also highly recommended - is still closed after a fire in a neighbouring building last year.

We are here to visit the Geometricas thermal springs on the edge of the national park and plan an early start tomorrow to beat the crowds and then carry on north to the shores of Lago Villarica

Valdivia

Unlike most towns and cities here, Valdivia's centre is not the Plaza de Armas but its waterfront where three rivers come together on their way to the sea. The main market - fish on one side, fruit and veg on the other - is the big attraction on the quayside and there is little else in the city centre other than another modern concrete cathedral.

Our base on the Isla Teja proved ideal as we were in walking distance of the two main museums and the botanical gardens which surround the university campus. The museums show just how much the German immigrants shaped the city and its business and their involvement in education and science.

The confluence of the rivers means that there are vast areas of wetlands and a great variety of birdlife.

It was also one of the most successful ports under the Spanish - the system of forts and batteries which they built at the river mouth in 1645 were undefeated until 1820 when a Scottish (of course!) Admiral who was the Commander in Chief of the fledgling Chilean navy managed to breach the defences and capture the city on behalf of the new republic.

When we went to visit the forts this morning, we drove into a fog bank which dropped the temperature by about 15 degrees C and cut short our visit. As an alternative we investigated a couple of artisan breweries - probably the most enduring evidence of the German immigrants. The most successful - Kunstmann - offered a tasting of their 10 different beers - a very commercial setup - and also one of my personal favourites - Torobayo.

Decided to skip the Jetski championships which were taking place in town and settled for a cooling libation on our balcony watching another sunset.

We are back on the road tomorrow heading inland to more lakes, volcanos and hot springs.

On the road again

Time to head for warmer weather – while yesterday was a bright sunny day and today looks similar, it gets quite cool at night – not as bad as the south of England this week – but still cool enough to welcome the extra blankets on the bed.

We are heading north to Valdivia – about 220km – and our route initially along the northside of the lake takes us through an area that was colonised by German immigrants in the mid 19^th century. This is the heart of Chile's dairy industry and we saw some huge dairy herds along the way - and a fair few beef cattle as well.

Stopped in Osorno for coffee and a look at a very interesting modern concrete cathedral with a lattice bell tower. Beautiful frontage with mosaic representations of the 12 apostles.

Then it was onto the Panamerican for an hour or so before turning towards the coast and the old colonial city of Valdivia – although there was not much of the old city left after the 1960 earthquake and Tsunami.

Arriving on the day that the city celebrated its 460 anniversary probably explained why it had proved impossible to book any accommodation in advance. However it was probably as well since we found a very nice apartment on the Isla Teja – across the river from the city centre – with a very friendly landlady who spoke Spanish slowly so I could understand her!

More water

On the eastern side of Osorno we drove along the banks of the Rio Petrohue which was diverted by a lava flow some time ago and has resulted in an impressive set of waterfalls.

There was a Jetboat offering rides through the rapids below the falls, but we settled for the more sedate cruise on Lago Todos Los Santos which stretches almost to the border with Argentina and two more volcanos – Troncador (3460m) and Puntiagudo (2493m).

Despite the excellent roads around the lake, there is about 6km of dirt track leading to the falls and the lake – a practical solution since it is washed out in three of four places every spring by the melt water coming off Osorno. Judging by the flow now in the height of summer, it must be pretty impressive at its peak.

Clear skies and Sunshine

Clear skies overnight meant that it was crisp and cool this morning – the gas heater was on to warm the cabin before Linda would venture out of bed. However this also meant that we could watch the full moon setting on the lake and see the Volcano with the rising sun lighting the snow on the peak.

Despite the summer weather, Osorno, which is over 2650m, is snow covered for about 650m all year round.

Took advantage of the clear conditions and headed out fairly early on the road up the side of the mountain. You can drive 14km on paved road to a visitor centre at 1000m and the views of the lake and the surrounding mountains and volcanoes were tremendous. In addition we were the only people there – didn't see another vehicle until we were almost back down at the lake.

Stopped to see a small lake -Laguna Verde -which is almost emerald green because of a micro algae in the water and had our first real problem of the trip when Linda's Nikon dropped on the ground and suffered some serious damage – not sure if we can do anything while we are here – may have to rely on the pocket camera until we get home now.

Ensenada

Found a very smart restaurant for dinner on our first night and a very pleasant meal – although there was only one other couple in the place – Chilenos appear to eat their main meal around lunch time (2.00-4.00pm) even on holiday.

Great views of the Volcano as the moon rose, but we woke to find that someone had wrapped it in thick cloud and mist and the wind was whipping the lake into a frenzy. Forgot to mention that Lago Llanquihue is more inland sea than lake – at 870 square kilometres it is slightly larger than the whole of the Burren.

Plan B entailed a trip into Puerto Varas for some food shopping and sightseeing and lunch.

Peter was based in Puerto Varas for more than a year when he was working here and we had both formed the impression that it was a sort of one-horse place with little to see or do – guess we misunderstood as it turned out to be very pleasant – great views across the lake and lots going on. Managed a bit of shopping and bought the necessary supplies, had a look at the Cathedral and an excellent lunch – best pasta for some time.

By the time we got on the road home the rain had started and it stayed that way for the rest of the day, only clearing just before sunset.