News from home

As we near the end of our trip, our thoughts and conversation have focussed on Moyhill and the things that will await us on our return, and the jobs that need to be done as we start the new season.

This was brought into sharp focus last night with the news that one of the Hockey Girls is unwell despite the care and attention lavished on her by Kate. Hope she will pull through by the time we get home. We had to dispatch one of the Girls before we left - due to something incurable - but luckily her namesake is fit and well having just celebrated her 21st (???) birthday.

We are spending our last three nights on a working farm (15000 orange trees) to get us back in the mood

Rodeos

In Chile, the rodeo is different from those I have seen in the USA. However it was still a great demonstration of horsemanship which we enjoyed watching. We had learned beforehand that there are three levels of rodeos in Chile and that we were attending one in the middle level - not the best but - like championship football or perhaps the SPL - still a good show.

Having finally found the medialuna (stadium) and discovered that we were a couple of hours early for the start of the final session (after the elimination stages) we managed to find a very pleasant restaurant on the outskirts of San Esteban for a late lunch. We arrived back just in time for the start of proceedings and the playing of the national anthem.

32 Horsemen had paraded into the ring and after some additional preliminaries, they commenced the action which required them - in pairs - to corral a calf which was released into the ring and in three or four passes to pinion it against a cushioned barrier. Clearly there was a level of skill required above the basic horsemanship and our neighbours in the stands were fairly vocal in their praise and condemnation of the efforts of the riders. (*)

It appeared - from the regular cry of 'zero puntos' from the announcer - that the judges were hard to please but there were great cheers for the few who managed a score of 'quattro puntos'.

After a couple of hours, realising that we lacked the knowledge to know what was actually going on, we retired to the hotel bar and pool to watch the sunset and reflect on the experience.

* Linda took copious photos of the spectacle but unfortunately they were somehow lost in the process of downloading them to the web

Los Andes

Slightly off the tourist trail but on the main trans-Andes route to Argentina - Los Andes has been a very pleasant place to spend the weekend. Founded by Ambrosio O'Higgins from Ballina in Co Mayo -father of Bernardo who was the 'Libertador' and first president of Chile.

We are here primarily to see the rodeo in nearby San Estaban but have enjoyed the city - an interesting archaeological museum and another pleasant plaza.

From the hotel pool we can see snow-covered Aconcagua (6959m) - the highest peak this side of the Himalayas -and the nearby Cerro de la Virgen (about 200m) which we may climb tomorrow morning.

The other reason for our visit is Ceramica Cala - where we got to see the whole process and do a bit of shopping.

Last weekend in the sunshine - just caught the forecast for snow in Toronto next weekend - but the weather at home seems better.

More on the rodeo later.

Hourly rates

The Maipo valley has dozens of wineries offering interesting (but expensive) tasting opportunities but apparently no hotels. It seems that they rely on the hotels in Santiago to accommodate their visitors.

As a result we carried on to Casablanca – the next valley north where we were recommended to a 'very comfortable' hotel.

After a little navigation practice and instructions from three petrol attendants, we finally saw the sign and pulled into the parking space by the reception office – thought it a little strange that each room had a private space in front with a gate so that the cars could not be seen.

All became clear when I approached the owner to ask for our standard 'habitacion matrimonial con bano privado' to be told that the rooms were available for 4 hours, 6 hours or 12 hours but that she couldn't quote me a rate for 24!

Luckily, the entrance to the place we were looking for was 50 metres further along the road and it had pool, spa, hot tubs, and restaurant – and they rented their rooms by the day.

Lunch

We have fallen into the habit of eating our main meal at lunchtime -like most of our neighbours and treated ourselves today to the restaurant at the end of the road which specialises in Cordero al Palo -Spit roasted Lamb.

Very simple spit roasting oven – could build one when I get home – and substantial portions served with boiled potatoes and a Chilean salad – tomatoes and onions.

Tried to order a ½ bottle of cabernet sauvignon but was sold a bottle on the basis that I could take the balance home – somehow we managed to finish it along with all the lamb. But had to decline the dessert menu – Linda reckons she won't need to eat again until the weekend

Walking home we discovered a substantial shrine to St Andrew who, when he is not caring for Scots everywhere, apparently does a bit moonlighting looking after coastal communities in Chile.

Back on the beach

Tasting wine can be exhausting so we headed back to the coast and a small village called Cahuil – just south of Pichilemu and the 'world capital of surfing' at Punta de Lobos where they are currently holding the national surfing champonships.

Not sure if we will be able to see any of the surfing because we woke to a sea mist which rolled in from the horizon and has hidden every thing on the beach. Walked on the beach last night in shorts and tee shirts – this morning it was full walking gear and three layers to keep out the cold – but the mist lifted and it warmed up again by lunchtime

We are only 150m from the shore and can hear the sound of the breakers all the time – not sure how far we will venture in because the water is a bit cooler than Lahinch in summer – the Humboldt current again. It is however a fabulous beach to walk, where you can literally walk for miles on firm almost black sand with the breakers pounding the shoreline and an assortment of wading birds for company – particularly the Sanderlings which look like electric mice as they scuttle backwards and forwards with the ebb and flow of the waves.

We are here until Friday when we are off to the Maipo valley and more wine tasting followed by a weekend in Los Andes – an hour or so north of Santiago where we hope to finally see a rodeo.

Sometimes you just get lucky!

Arriving at the Vina Montgras for a tour and tasting - without a reservation - we didn't expect that we would witness the arrival of the first grapes of the 2012 harvest and to see them start their journey into the press even if they were only run of the mill Chardonnay destined for their basic table wine.

Getting to taste the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc direct from a 37,000l vat was a definite first - although it could have been chilled a little more!

The tour was one of the best I have experienced anywhere - a very friendly, informative guide to wine production in Chile in general and Montgras in particular and the chance to taste each of the grapes as they were ripening on the vines.

The tasting was also excellent - and a little snack to match each wine - a spicy shrimp with the Sauvignon Blanc, Cheese with the Carmenere and lamb with the Cabernet Sauvignon.