Everything it says on the tin and more

Our three days at Umlani have to rank as the best I can remember anywhere for a very long time. Getting up close and personal with such a variety of animals and birds on the game drives was clearly the highlight but the hospitality, the location, the food and the people made our visit a very special experience.

Our fellow guests were a mixed bunch but we managed to get on quite well. There was a little unease as we were joined by an Anglo-Swedish couple with three weans (9, 7 & 2) but they were quite well behaved and the little one was useful bait for attracting the big cats!

Each of the rangers – Ginger and Elvis – took us off-road through the bush to find lion, leopard, wild dogs and others with uncanny precision. We had a couple of drives where it rained from start to finish, but we still saw a huge variety and when the sun finally arrived, we had a magical hour standing round the trucks with our sundowners as a herd of elephant wandered down the road past us. It stayed dry for the rest of our stay and we ticked off the Big Five in less than 24 hours and then went on to see even more.

If any of you are considering a visit to South Africa, then this is a must. Ali said that Umlani would suit us down to the ground and she was right - thanks again to you both.

Heading for the Park

As we left Graskop in the rain, negotiating the hairpin road down the escarpment towards Klaserie, we could see brighter skies to the East. Unfortunately this was a bit of an illusion because it was still raining by the time we got to Hoedspruit for some essential supplies.

From there it was only an hour's drive into the Timbavati reserve to Umlani Bush Camp which had been recommended by Ali & Neil. We had decided that a few days with private guides and rangers would be a great way to see some of the animals and birds and also to get a proper introduction to the bush.

Didn't start well because the directions on their website had a couple of basic errors but we eventually found our way, after an hour of wandering around, thanks to a friendly ranger from another camp.

However the friendly greeting – and the fact that we arrived just in time for pre-lunch drinks – overcame the mild frustration which had started to build up!

Sunshine at last!

It was raining as we came home from the restaurant last night and was still raining when we got up for breakfast this morning. However as we headed north along the Blyde river canyon – the third largest in the world*- after catching up on a few chores in town, the rain eased. By the time we reached Bourkes Luck Potholes it was no more than a fine mist which disappeared completely as we wandered over the sandstone rocks looking down into the canyon.

The Potholes were formed by the whirlpools which occur where the Treur river plunges into the Blyde and the sand and rock carried in the water has carved out cylindrical holes in the riverbed.

Unfortunately Mr Bourke's claim didn't produce a single ounce of gold, although he correctly predicted that substantial deposits would be found in the area – by a man called Alex Patterson in 1873.

As we headed north along the canyon's edge, the sun arrived and brightened up the afternoon – it was positively warm by the time we got to the viewpoint at the Three Rondavels.

The sun stayed with us all the way back to Graskop – amazing how much better the town looked! Unfortunately the rain returned around sundown so we will be quite happy to move on to the Kruger Park tomorrow.

*anyone want to name the second largest?

God's Window

As you look out from God's Window on the edge of the Escarpment, you can see the plains 900m below stretching out to the Kruger Park and Mozambique beyond - at least that's what the guide book said!

Catching up

It is only when you catch up with far-flung friends that you are aware of how long it is since you last saw them.
We hadn't realised that Linda had a 7 year cycle for visiting Carol & Leo since they returned to SA from the Orient. 14 years ago, Jodie had just been born, 7 years ago Jessica was within days of arriving and this year we arrived in the middle of Jodie's birthday celebrations. We also got to meet Jared - who they adopted 4 years ago - for the first time.
After a big family dinner- with 17 at the table it could have been a pub night in Canada - we slept surprisingly well - despite the group of 14 year old girls celebrating at the other end of the house.
On the road by lunchtime - after a bit of essential shopping - and a 400km drive to Graskop which sits on the eastern edge of the Escarpment looking out over the Lowveld.
From an overcast 29C in Joburg, we arrived to misty low cloud and 16C -  felt just like a summer's day at Moyhill!

Getting there

Despite accumulating a considerable number of air miles in my time, long haul travel has never been one of my favourite activities.
However our journey from Shannon via Heathrow to Johannesburg was relatively painless. Everything went as planned, the SAA cabin staff were quite pleasant, the food was fair and they were generous with the wine. We landed ahead of schedule, our bag came of the carousel quickly and the car hire was efficient and gave us the vehicle we had booked. What more could you want!!
Slightly concerned when we unloaded the bag at our first port of call to discover that the lock had been cut off and the bag had been well and truly turned over - apparently a regular problem at Joburg. Fortunately our meagre collection of valuable equipment was in our hand baggage and we haven't identified anything which was taken.
Take note if you plan to fly down here!

Twelfth night

January 6th  is a day I remember being spent taking down the decorations and clearing up the mess of removing the Christmas tree from the living room. However it is celebrated here as Little or Woman's Christmas.

The woman of the house - who has been working flat out for the last few weeks preparing, serving and clearing up after the family for all their celebrations -  is treated to a day of care and pampering. Not sure how much attention is paid to the old traditions now, but it strikes me as one which should be spread more widely.

Over the last few years it  has also become the day when our focus changes from events at Moyhill to packing for our winter trip. This year we are heading south - South Africa, Mozambique and Swaziland - in search of sun, safari, beaches and some great wines.

We are leaving from Shannon via Heathrow to Johannesburg on Thursday  and will start our trip with a visit to the Kruger Park. I have promised to keep the blog up to date as we travel around - so watch this space!!