Thoughts on Colombo

Over the years, I must have been in dozens of tropical cities like this - perhaps too many. 

Despite the new developments and the inevitable Chinese mega project - Port City - there's a feeling of shabbiness due in part to the humidity which covers concrete with mould and in part to the size of the population. And while it may look shabby at least the road surfaces are better than Edinburgh!

However this has to be one of the friendliest places I have been. It seems impossible to walk through the city without someone guiding you through the traffic on a busy road or ensuring that you find the right platform for your train - and without the subsequent expectation of reward. 

As a result I had interesting conversations with a plumbing engineer who was working on a high-rise hotel development on his lunch break and with a Sri Lankan Navy supply officer on his way home.

We saw the major sights on a tour of the city including a large Buddha or two 

and a mosque 

before we were dropped off downtown for lunch at a very smart place called Ministry of Crab which was excellent, if expensive.

A bit more sightseeing on the city streets and then to the Fort Station for a train ride back to Mount Lavinia. 

Only 28C but 90% humidity so 3rd class carriage was a little warm even with all doors and windows open as we took the route around the coast.

Very glad to get back to the hotel so we could cool off in the pool.

Sri Lanka's Raffles??

Following a recommendation from yoga teacher Angie - who lived and worked here many years ago - we are staying at the Mount Lavinia Hotel just outside Colombo. The hotel was developed from a mansion which was built for a British Governor General in 1830 - although only used as such for a year or so.

Linda told a few people that she expected it to be like Sri Lanka's Raffles and she was right as long as you knew the Raffles in the late 70's when I first stayed there -  before the extensive reconstruction that transformed it into the luxury hotel that everyone knows today.

It is still a very grand building but to describe it as tired would be an understatement. However, the room was comfortable, the staff were very helpful and friendly and the food was good.

Our room had an ocean view which allowed us a great sunset view this evening

A night at the Souk

Souk Waqif is a historic Souk in the old centre of Doha and a 20 min walk from our hotel. It was recommended by our driver and by a fellow hotel guest as a great place to find dinner. 

Qatar is very safe to walk around, so we strolled there as it got dark and joined the crowds walking in and around the souk. Primarily families out for a Saturday evening and the stalls were doing great business. 

Couldn't get into our first choice for dinner but got into the next one and had fun choosing a meal from a menu which didn't have an English translation - luckily there were pictures of some of the dishes and we ate well. 

Continued our stroll after dinner and popped into the Art Gallery to see an exhibition of paintings about the war in Gaza with a musician playing in the centre. 

Decided on an early night as our airport transfer was due at 06.00. 

A day in Doha

We had a few days to fill between leaving SA and commecing our organised tour in Sri Lanka and decided we should take advantage of a 'Discover Qatar' offer of a couple of nights in a 5 Star hotel and see what Doha has to offer. 

Our flight was slightly delayed, so we didn't arrive at the hotel until 1.00am - not quite the 5 star we expected and a queue of asian men waiting for the lift to the top floor night club. However the room was comfortable if a little worn and I was asleep almost immediately. 

We had a leisurely start to the day and strolled towards the Museum of Islamic Art looking for breakfast before culture. 

As we arrived we were stopped by a 'limo' driver who offered us a 3 hour tour of the highlights of Doha for 300 riyals (around £60). Took him up on his offer as long as the first stop was coffee. Slightly surprised when he pulled up outside a Tim Horton's in the old Mina Port but the coffee was good and a triple chocolate muffin was enough to keep me going till lunch. First Tim's I've ever been to with valet parking! 

Our driver was a very pleasant Nepalese who had been in Qatar for 15 years and a great guide to the city 

We saw the National Museum, Old Mina Port, Corniche, Katara Cultural Village where Linda looked a little out of place 

Then we both had to cover up for a visit to the Blue Mosque 

We carried on to the city centre, Pearl Island, an italian village based on Venice - including vaperetti - and eventually returned to the Museum of Islamic Art for lunch before culture then back to the hotel for an afternoon nap. 

Off on our travels

After 3 months in the Western Cape, its time for a change, so we're back at Cape Town Airport on our way to Colombo via Doha.

Good to get away from the heat wave this week with 37 /38C for the last few days - although a pleasant 24C as we reached the airport this morning. 

Unfortunately, the Qatar lounge here is provided by Bidvest - a stuffy crowded cubby hole of a place. Filled the water bottle and left. Will have to wait for my glass of Fizz until we board.

We have a couple of nights in Doha - one full day to explore and then onwards to Colombo for three nights at the Mount Lavinia hotel - recommended by Angie. Then we are joining an organised activity holiday with Explore - Linda asked for the size and age profile of the group - 7 people from 30's to 70's - and started to complain about putting up with some 'oldie' before she realised that it was me. 

More stories to come, I'm sure 

Dinner at Nobu

At the Paarl Rotary Wine Auction in October - after lunch and a glass or two - I had bid for and successfully bought one of the lots which included quite a lot of wine and a special dinner for two at Nobu. This had to be used before the start of the Christmas holiday so we booked for 15th December - the last available date.

Moving from the cocktail bar to the restaurant, we handed over the voucher for two 'Special Omakase tasting menus' and were guided to our table. Almost immediately, the manager arrived and suggested that he could offer us a much better experience if we were prepared to let him choose a different menu for us. Having suggested that we would like to drink a light Pinot Noir - we left everything to him and in LP's words invited him to 'impress us!'

As we waited for our first course to arrive - and as the evening progressed - we noticed that the restaurant was popular with a variety of 'fashionable' folk including a number of larger ladies whose attire displayed more flesh than I have seen since the strip joint we visited on Rupert's stag night in rural Ontario

While we may have eaten meals of equivalent quality in our time, it is hard to think of anything that was better than the selection of 10 courses which followed. I would love to describe them on a blow-by-blow basis but words and memory fail me.

We managed to finish the bottle of wine, ordered a couple of extra glasses and then enjoyed a dessert with a glass of sweet wine. Slightly apprehensively, I asked for the bill - expecting that we may have spent quite a bit more than the value of our voucher. 

To our surprise, our waiter informed us that, even including the wine, we still had credit left and offered us some takeaway food or a bottle of wine to take home with us. We settled for a couple of nightcaps and left with a small credit balance and a decent tip for the staff as we headed for the concierge and a more conventional - but much more expensive - taxi back to out hotel.

A Christmas treat??

We were in Cape Town for the weekend and despite my natural reticence, Friday evening's events warrant a blog piece as nothing else.

We were staying at our home from home - Rouge on Rose - for our 10th year -  and had dinner booked at an exclusive restaurant - Nobu at the One and Only Hotel.

Since I am still unable to set up an uber account - refer to a couple of posts from January 2017 for the story - I booked a taxi through Bolt, although I may not have examined all the options  - it was very cheap! 

We were picked up by a very friendly and competent driver in a brown Ford Focus!! which had covered a lot of miles. It was only as we arrived at the hotel - and a pair of uniformed doormen rushed to open the car doors for us - that we noticed the three cracks across the width of the windscreen! 

Having settled into our seats in the bar for a pre-dinner cocktail, LP chose a bramble gin drink while I settled for my usual Negroni. Linda's drink looked a bit like a blackberry slushie and after a sip or two she declared herself unsatisfied - shades of the 'what the f*** is that' incident in Kleinmond a few years ago.

On checking, our waitress confirmed that the mixologist had made a mistake and served her an alcohol-free concoction which included a bramble syrup but no gin! 

And that was before we reached the restaurant!!