Home sweet home

With an evening departure from Cape Town, we arrived in Heathrow at 6.00 am - just before the sun rose on a cool bright autumn morning - only 4C when we landed. Changing terminals, immigration and security checks to negotiate before we made it to the Lounge in Terminal 5 with some time to kill before our Edinburgh flight.

Excellent mini bacon rolls and croissants - although the coffee was a little disappointing. Interesting mix of working folk busily on their way to something important and those like ourselves who were homeward bound from holiday trips. Probably the busiest place I have been since we were here three weeks ago.

We left London in brilliant sunshine, but by the time we got to Edinburgh it had clouded over and the wind had picked up which made for an interesting - but very proficient - landing. Bags arrived safely and our taxi driver was there on time with his shades balanced optimistically on his turban. Didn't see the sun again.

Good to be home and get back to some degree of normality - although I'll be back at the airport on Thursday morning for a trip to see my Mum. I think we are home for about 4 weeks before we head back to Ireland for a week in the Burren.

PS - Thanks to Mr Page for his comments and encouragement during the trip

The journey home

Breakfast on the terrace on Monday morning before we packed up to leave. With an evening flight to London, we have planned to spend the day at the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. 

This is a public holiday in SA - Heritage Day - and the gardens were busier than we have ever seen them - lots of groups having picnics in the shady parts of the lower gardens but still plenty of quiet space for us to enjoy the gardens and the wildlife. 

Double Pincushion

Southern Double Collared Sunbird feeding on Pincushion

We had to settle for a coffee and roll from one of the fast food outlets because the restaurant and tea rooms were mobbed but after the huge breakfast at Banhoek lodge, we didn't need much. By mid afternoon the temperature was around 24C so we were very glad of the shade. 

Uneventful drive to the airport - although a challenge to find the way to get into the airport filling station; Hire car returned without any problem - always feels good to get past that hurdle; Easy check in and a couple of glasses of Villiera Tradition Brut to prepare us for the  overnight flight.

We've had a great time on this trip - lots of spring flowers in three different regions; dozens of whales and a few dolphins; 24 more South African bird species to bring our current total to 328;  8 wineries; lots of good food with a couple of excellent meals and plenty of wines - including a couple of new favourites.

We also managed to catch up with old friends along the way and made a few new ones - hopefully it won't be too long before we are back here.

Back in the winelands

We are spending our last weekend at Banhoek Lodge - just outside Stellenbosch - surrounded by wineries, restaurants and mountains. Dinner on Friday at Le Pommier next door was less than memorable, a bit like their wine.

On Saturday, we met up with Sue and Ally - along with their friends Estelle, Petra, Trish and Ava - for a guided hike in Bains Kloof Pass up above Wellington.

Our guide - Jody - was enthusiastic and energetic but seemed to be winging it most of the time. We were on the 'Rockhopper Trail' which involved dropping down to the river and following it to a waterfall - where we planned to have a lunch stop - and then returning to the cars by a different route.

Due to the torrential rain last week, the river was higher than expected and even though we 'rock-hopped' for nearly 3 hours along one side, we were unable to find a safe place to cross.

Settled for a picnic stop and then scrambled up the gorge to the road and back to the cars. Not quite what we expected but a pleasant outing in good company - with a stop at a winery outside Wellington on the way home for a well-earned refreshment.

In the evening we treated ourselves to an anniversary meal at Delaire Graff - without doubt one of the best restaurants in the area. Excellent meal with matching wines and friendly professional service - albeit at prices that were closer to Edinburgh than those we have experienced elsewhere on this trip.

What a difference a day or two can make

On Monday I was settled in behind a sand dune, quite comfortably watching the whales.

By Wednesday, Linda was having trouble keeping on her feet in almost the same place.

Big Birds

We woke to clear blue skies and warm sunshine - still only 16-17 C but much better than yesterday. Our visit to the Cape Vulture Colony - one of only two in South Africa - started with a short drive to Potberg and then a 45 minute climb to the viewing platform. in front of the cliffs where the birds are nesting.

The Cape Vulture is one of the largest vultures in the world with a 2.6m (8.5ft) wing span and a body weight of up to 10.8 Kg. There are more than 280 birds in the colony at Potberg and they were very active when we were watching them. Impressive birds to see in flight - particularly as they pass directly overhead. 

Many local farmers are cooperating with the conservation project by setting up 'vulture restaurants' where they leave the carcasses of any of their livestock that die naturally and thus provide a ready food source for the vultures - and a tourist income for the farmers.

Another new species to add to our list and perhaps one of the most impressive - and one of the most difficult to photograph.

When we got back, we headed down to the beach to spend another hour or so watching the whales and then it was home for a bottle of Black Oystercatcher Rose as we watched the sun go down. Followed by a bit of sorting and packing  in preparation for our departure in the morning

In fact it can rain quite a lot.

Despite the bright sunrise which greeted us on Wednesday morning, the rain had started before we had finished breakfast and we were interrupted by one of the guides who suggested that it would be a good idea to postpone our trek to the Cape Vulture colony until Thursday.

We spent an hour or two by a roaring fire in the lodge as the rain got heavier and then headed home to the cottage to try to get warm - it was around 10C outside and not much warmer inside until we got the fire going. Felt a little like being at Moyhill again.

By mid-afternoon, the rain had passed and the sun came out so we headed back down to the beach at Koppie Alleen to see how the whales coped with the passing storm.

They had moved a little further offshore but they were still in easy sight and seemed to be a little more active in the deeper water. 

Looking forward to the return of sunshine and warmer weather on Thursday - if not I'll have to buy some more firewood.

It rains here too

After the spectacular sunrise, Tuesday turned into a grey cool damp day. We stayed dry for our morning bird walk and got some great views of the Greater Flamingos, 

African Darter

Greater Flamingos

but by the time we’d had breakfast and driven to De Mond at the Southern end of the Vlei, the rain had arrived. Decided to head back to reception and take advantage of their Wifi.

Lunch in the cottage and then back to Koppie Alleen as the rain eased. What a difference a day makes – Monday was 26C and bright sunshine while today is no more than 16C and grey with regular showers marching through – at least it justified bringing all that gear to keep us warm and dry.

After an hour or so watching the whales from the shelter of the Café, we had a great walk along the dunes as the sun finally appeared– seems like it’s the adult whales which are breaching and tail-slapping today – with a few of the calves following their lead. Rarely less than four whales in the field of vision of my binoculars – hard to know which ones to focus on.

Dinner in the restaurant this evening – first time we have seen any of our fellow guests – good people watching as ever. I was slightly worried that the ‘domestic’ at the table behind me might come to blows at one point.