Nightlife

After dinner at the Natural Restaurant - which was highly recommended but more than a little disappointing - we stopped off at the Rocking Angels Blues bar for a nightcap or two.
We were enjoying the big screen presentation of Eric Clapton from some mega venue somewhere in the world until the local band took over - I was quite happy with the recorded 'Slowhand' but the band had other ideas.
Eventually, they started playing 'Living next door to Alice' originally by Smokie and disappointed me by not singing the chorus - which I am sure Susan McKay remembers.
Time to leave - in more ways than one

Lahinch beach next

Had a walk along Long Beach as the sun rose this morning - our last beach until we are back in Clare. We are on our way to Phuket Town at lunchtime for a night out and probably some shopping before we head for Singapore, the Hockey Sixes and then our flight home on Monday night.
Have enjoyed Yao Noi but it feels like it is time to head home. Have already started working on the list of jobs that will need to be done when we get there.
While the cocktail bar at Sabai Corner was a real attraction, I think I prefer the views from the deck of our chalet at Tabeak. Just before the sun comes over the hills on the other side of the bay the Hornbills fly down from their roosts on the hillside behind us to start feeding and to gather food for their mates who are locked inside their nest holes. This morning I counted 27 of them.

Thai cooking

Obviously, we couldn't spend 3 weeks in Thailand without a cookery course, so we were pleased to find that Mina's cookery class on Yao Noi was listed No.1 of all the islands activities on Tripadvisor.

We had the class to ourselves and really enjoyed both the class and Mina's company and her attitude. The fact that she could have been Jeanette's Thai sister was a little disconcerting but we got used to it.

This was a simple and effective introduction to cooking Thai food which dealt with all the basics but also concentrated on the style of cooking rather than just with a few set recipes. Had to stop at the market on the way back to pick up some dried ingredients to carry home and will have to look in the hardware shops in Phuket town for a coconut grater - although I doubt mine will be as stylish as Mina's.

A great way to spend the morning and a good lunch as well.

Another boat trip

After our experience in the Similan Islands and with some of the organised trips in Khao Sok, we were a little wary of joining another boat trip, but were still interested to see some of the smaller islands around Yao Noi and to get a bit of snorkelling.

As a result, we joined a trip - organised by Sabai -  with three other couples who were also guests there to visit 5 of the islands in the archipelago.

Our companions - a Swiss and a German couple of our age or slightly older and a young German couple - proved very enjoyable company and the trip worked out very well.
As we left Hat Pasai, we sailed past a fleet of longtails which were fishing for Jellyfish - for export to China. They are only available for 2-3 months of the year, but in a good day one boat can earn up to 8,000 Baht (about £160).
Our first stop was a little busy with boats from Krabi but after a short stop and a brief chat with the boatman, we spent the rest of the day away from the crowds and mostly on beaches where we were the only boat. On one of them we even managed to watch some Champions League football!

Along with some decent snorkelling, it was one of the best day trips of our holiday. The boatman even dropped us at the seawall by the resort so we hardly got our feet wet on our way home.

Koh Yao Noi

This is one of the largest inhabited islands in Phang Nga Bay but is still only 12km long and about 3km wide. It's about half way between Phuket and Krabi and has regular boat services from both - along with the daily boat from Tha Dan - when it is running.
While the beaches are not as white and sandy as the Andaman coast - most have some rocky stretches - it is slightly off the main tourist path and is therefore a lot quieter and more relaxed. There are probably 20-30 resorts here - ranging from £200 per night to £10 - a few restaurants and a couple of bars.

We spent half our time at Tabeak Viewpoint which is about 5 minutes from the beach on the side of a hill, with some wonderful views and a perfect spot to watch the Sunrise. The rest of the time we stayed at Sabai Corner - which is on the waterfront on the point dividing Hat   from Hat Pasai. Both have been very friendly and helpful and comfortable. They have both been full but with 8- 12 rooms each, they never feel busy.
Sabai has the slight advantage because it has a waterfront bar which opens at 5.00pm and serves excellent cocktails.

Conned - or not?

The best laid plans...

We had to travel by road from Khao Sok to Phang Nga and the ferry pier at Tha Dan for the only daily ferry to Koh Yao Noi.

Since there was no simple route, we arranged a private taxi through the hotel and agreed on a price - which was about average for a 90 min journey.

From there it went down hill - the taxi was 30 minutes late which reduced our time margin but then made up for it by driving like a lunatic - while busy with a succession of phone calls - many of which seemed to include our destination.

When we finally arrived at the jetty we were told that the ferry had been cancelled - due to mechanical problems - and that we could either hire a private longtail for the journey at a substantial price, or take a taxi - also a chunky price - to Phuket to catch one of their ferries or stay in Phang Nga for two nights and take the ferry on Monday.

After discussion and some negotiation, we settled for the private longtail at a slightly reduced price and set off on the journey with a nagging feeling that we had been set up.

However on arriving in Koh Yao Noi, we found that the ferry had in fact been cancelled. We had paid about £20 more than the going rate for the boat trip but we did enjoy a private tour of the bay passing Koh Panyi and the James Bond island on the way.

Man the Barricades!!!

Have just learned that my good friend Jimmy C and the long-suffering Mrs C (or in his words eternally fortunate) are heading for Suvarnabhumi Airport on their way home from their holiday mansion in Hua Hin. It appears there way may be blocked by striking rice farmers who have vowed to block all access to the airport for the next few days.

I will now be glued to the news coverage for sight of a tall - and somewhat distinguished Farang - standing on the barricades at one with the protesters - a bit like Hugh Jackman - or perhaps his father!

It's not all beer and sunshine

Trying to keep track of important events - such as the six Nations - has been a bit frustrating. Firstly the time difference means that most matches have been played in the middle of our night. Secondly we have not seen a TV screen showing anything other than Thai news for a week or so, and finally our internet access has been limited - usually available in the bars or restaurants but not in the rooms or bungalows.
This has meant that I had to suffer the ignominy of hearing the Arsenal / Bayern Munich score from a friendly junior Doctor from Barts who subsequently revealed his true colours when he donned his Spurs shirt at the end of our boat trip.
Luckily there were no Englishmen around this morning when I learned the result of the match at Twickenham.
Still Arsenal won and Scotland managed to avoid defeat in Rome - not a total washout.

The lake

Cheow Lan lake was formed in 1982 when the river was dammed for a hydroelectric power plant. It covers 160sq km and is up to 120m deep in some places. 

 There are more than a hundred islands in the lake – some of them with Limestone peaks reaching to 6-700m

 The area surrounding the lake is all National Park and all of the development has been restricted to floating raft houses where you can stay overnight. We decided that a day trip was enough and avoided the 800m trek through one of the caves which everyone else did. We settled for some kayaking and a cooling swim - with a couple of cold Chang to maintain the hydration levels.

It was more than an hour in a longtail from the dam to the raft houses and the journey hack seemed long - particularly since the guide and driver were playing games and most of us got soaked in the spray. Not a particularly sensible move since it certainly reduced the size of their tip!
We were glad to be back on dry land - although the lake looked very different in the evening light.

The Big Flower

Went on a short trek this morning with a Thai guide and a Canadian couple to see the Rafflesia kerrii meier which had just been found flowering in the jungle nearby. At 60cm across, it was not as big as some examples – it can grow up to 80cm or more – but it was certainly worth the 45 min uphill hike to reach it.

One of our Canadian friends had been trying to see one of these for nearly 5 years and had regularly travelled to Thailand and Borneo with no previous success.

We were also impressed with our Thai guide who was very informative about the flora and fauna – not up to Sharon's standard of course but still one of the best we have had here.
We were kitted out in trekking sandals and the Canadians had serious walking boots - and leech socks??? - while our guide scampered up and down the hillside in a borrowed pair of flipflops which were at least 2 sizes too big.

Canoe trip

Having spent the morning changing rooms and catching up on email etc, we made a plan for the trips and treks we wanted to do and then decided to take a short hike in the National Park towards one of the waterfalls.

However, the trail was a little overgrown and a couple of the river crossings were out – which meant we had to resort to stepping stones and the inevitable wet feet. So we settled for a short loop walk and headed home for lunch before the canoe trip which we had booked to fill the afternoon – should have read the programme a bit better. We had assumed and prepared for a spot of kayaking, only to find that we were in three-man canoes with a paddler.

A very relaxing couple of hours watching the scenery and the birdlife while our paddler did all the work.

Spotted a number of Chinese Pond Herons and also a couple of Black Capped Kingfishers.

Khao Sok

Our arrival at Morning Mist resort in Khao Sok was not quite what we expected – we had been allocated the last available room which was somewhat below par and only stayed on the promise of an upgrade to a better room after one night. The owner/manager is a Thai/Chinese lady who seemed to spend most of her time behind the desk counting her money.

However, true to her word she arrange the new room for us after breakfast and has since been very helpful. The rooms are set amongst lovely gardens and we are surrounded by wildlife again.

There are probably a dozen or so small resorts on the road leading to the National Park along with a couple of bars, coffee shops and restaurants. While very different from Koh Ra, it is still fairly quiet and relaxed.

It is definitely warmer by a few degrees here than on the coast – and we miss the cooling sea breezes which were almost always there – early afternoon temperatures are probably over 30C but it cools down again quite quickly in the evening.

Koh Ra

Just like West Virginia – Almost Heaven?

It was quiet and tranquil, peaceful and relaxing, and there were never more than 24 other guests while we were there and about a dozen staff.

A beautiful beach on the edge of the jungle and a couple of easy walking trails. The food was good and the limited availability of electricity and cold-water showers were not major problems.

Mobile phone reception was limited and there was no Wifi – both plus points as long as you didn't need to be making travel arrangements.

There was an abundance of birdlife – we saw and identified at least a dozen new species – and a few mammals as well. We saw crab-eating macaques, dusky langurs and heard the wild boar rooting around at night.

We also saw a male Oriental Pied Hornbill feeding his mate who was shut into her tree trunk nest with her hatchlings, and there were White-bellied Sea Eagles and Brahminy Kites to keep us amused.

The meals were varied and all of good quality- and you got used to the fixed times quite easily – and they made proper coffee which was a definite bonus.

Definitely not for everyone – can't imagine the CC&Coke drinking, BMW driving Canadian banker cousin lasting through the first day and there wasn't any happy hour to satisfy Jimmy C's requirements – but a place we will certainly return to whenever we get the chance.

Thailand Fantasy

First night in Khao Sok and Linda ordered a cocktail called Thailand Fantacy:

I probably had something different in mind...

Just for Mark

Realising that it is currently a little cool in Mississauga, and remembering a kayaking trip that Mark and I made some years ago on the Yucatan peninsula, I thought I should include a photo of the beach that we visited by kayak this week. It was on the far side of the island from the resort but ours were the only footprints on the sand

Far from the madding crowd

We organised our transport to Kuraburi Pier through one of the local tour operators and were slightly surprised by the 12 seater minibus which showed up to collect us – it would probably have been more suited to Big Jim Walker or some New York Crack dealer. Gold mirrored walls and ceilings, multicoloured light strips and a substantial sound system – unfortunately not tuned to any station. However it was very comfortable and particularly well driven for Thailand.

Slight confusion about which pier we should be at, but third time lucky we found the longtail waiting to take us to the Ecolodge on Koh Ra.

There are 18 cabins here – a maximum of 36 guests and a dozen or so staff. Electricity for 5 hours each evening, cold water showers and communal meals – Jimmy C would be in his element.

We are living within the jungle, and all that entails. There are reportedly King Cobra on the island, but we haven't seen one yet although I did see a Bronzeback treesnake after lunch on the first day.

It is a very calm peaceful place and a great contrast from the crowds of the last few days. Think we could be here for a while.

Snorkelling in the Similan Islands

The Similan Islands are rated as on of the top ten diving and snorkelling destinations in the world and this was one of the main reasons for beginning our trip in Khao Lak.

Slightly concerned when we saw how many people were delivered to the pier at Thap Lamu but figured that 6 boats with 25-30 people each wouldn't be a problem. Unfortunately, when we got to the islands, we discovered that there another 25 boats and that they all followed a similar programme.

Luckily, we were one of the first to arrive and did get some great snorkelling – a huge variety of reef fish – in every colour you could imagine – and Hawksbill Turtle which seemed to swim amongst us without any concern. When we got back on the boat, we discovered that the turtles had been attracted by the slivers of watermelon which the guides were dropping off the boats. Guess the Turtles know that they will get some free food every day.

 Later in the day it got very crowded and our final stop on the beach at Ko Miang was a little like Piccadilly Circus

Mostly German and Russian tourists with a few French and other Europeans thrown in – only heard one other English voice.

I reckon my old friend Bruce – after whom we name one of our pigs each year – would have been in his element – lots of Russian babes in minuscule bikinis cavorting in the tide, posing for the cameras of their somewhat muscle-bound, tattooed partners.  

No Internet Access

Four days at Koh Ra (see below) without any internet access and only very limited mobile phone coverage - very peaceful, very laid back, very tranquil. You can see what the staff had to do to take a call.

Tunnocks Tea Cake

As we sat watching our first Thai sunset, I couldn't help thinking about chocolate.

Schnee Vogel

I am not sure if the Germans actually use this phrase in the same way that the Canadians do, but we are surrounded by them here at Nang Thong.

On day one, we woke as the first rays of sunshine lit the tops of the trees on the beach front. I could hear people outside and as I looked down on them from the balcony of our beachfront bungalow, there they were laying out their towels to book up all the loungers and deck chairs - just like the Canadians in Costa Rica and Mexico.

Some are short term visitors like ourselves but others have been here for the entire northern winter – given the skin tones which range from antique Pine to Walnut.
It is also clear that a substantial number of the men would have benefited from Linda's advice to leave the Speedos at home. 

Green Beach has been a good place to start our trip here and Nang Thong has every service you could need -however it is very busy and we are already planning a move further north to Ko Ra and the Ecolodge whch is the only place to stay on the island.

Thailand again

We arrived at our beachfront bungalow just as the last glimmer of light disappeared from the sky. An uneventful – if somewhat long – journey. 

I reckon the driver who brought us from the airport could have shaved an hour or two of the flight time from Perth if he had been on the flight deck of the Virgin 737.

Interesting bunch of fellow passengers – a few older single men who were probably heading for the attractions of Patong and a lot of young couples – some on honeymoon and some who our Aussie friends may have referred to as Bogans. I am not entirely sure of the definition but the copious tattoos, the garish jewellery and the gold Beats by Dr Dre seemed to be a bit of a giveaway – I am sure Colin will correct me if I have got this wrong.

Felt at home as soon as I sat down to a cold bottle of Chang and a plate of Pad Thai. Will have to wait till sunrise to see what the rest of the place looks like.

Time to go

After 3 weeks in WA, we are on our way to the airport today for our flight to Phuket and the next stage of our trip.

We left Augusta on Saturday and drove up the coast - stopped at Cape Naturaliste to see the lighthouse, then had an hour or so on the beach at Eagle Bay. Lunch at Busselton and walk to the end of the jetty - 1.8km. Busy place as they were getting ready for the Jetty swim on Sunday - about 800 swimmers covering the 3.6km course.

Got back to Kirsty's place in Fremantle in time for a shower and a glass of fizz before heading to North Freo and a new restaurant - Habitue - which had been written up in the weekend supplement and had crowds of people queuing down the street. Luckily we managed to get a table and had an excellent meal.

Sunday morning on the beach at Cottesloe while Tessa was at Surf Club - the place was heaving with kids of all ages along with the local equivalent of the 'Soccer Moms' -but still room to swim without too many interruptions.

Beach resort at Khao Lak tonight if all goes to plan.

Age improves with wine!

Apparently there are 132 wineries in the Margaret River Region and despite our best efforts, there is no way that we can get around them all – even Jimmy C would find this a challenge – particularly with the drink-driving rules.

As a result, we settled for an organised tour,with someone else doing the driving. I thought that their programme of only 4 wineries was a little unambitious, but after tasting between 10 and 12 wines in each one and stopping at a micro-brewery for the lunch break, I was quite satisfied by the end of the day – and still standing! We also squeezed in a coffee roaster, a cheese maker, an olive oil press and finished with the chocolatier.

.

Thankfully they picked us up from the house in Augusta – at 8.50 am – and deposited my somewhat somnolent body back on the doorstep just after 17.45pm.

Definitely the best way to deal with the problem – could have chosen different wineries but we still ended up with a representative sample of the best of the local wines and enjoyed a variety of other local produce.

Of course we also bought a few bottes along the way so that we could continue the tasting process when we got home.

Still trying to decide on the best wine to accompany my fish and chips – I think the Sauvignon Blanc Semillon or perhaps the Semillon Sauvignon Blanc!

Congratulations!

Just heard that Gavin has been confirmed in his promotion to Superintendent – Well done!

Good to know that even a Jambo can reap the rewards of talent, merit and hard work!

Another House – Another huge gas barbie

Could probably roast a veal calf on this one – certainly a whole hog.

It is such a pleasure to have both the weather and the equipment to barbecue properly. None of that buggering about with charcoal – just turn on the gas and start cooking – the canopy overhead is designed to keep off the sunshine – not stop the meat from getting soggy in the rain.

Think I may have to buy one when we get home - and build a bloody canopy to keep the rain off!

Some lovely lamb chops tonight – with Italian sausage on the side – washed down with an excellent Cabernet Merlot from the Parish Lane winery near Albany – you are not likely to find this in Oddbins or Majestic – but if any of you Aussie followers come across it, then buy a case at least.

Like grains of sand – they get everywhere!

Returning from a trip to Hamelin Bay- a sandy cove which seemed to stretch as far as the eye could see - we settled into our chairs on the shady deck at the back of the house with a cold libation. 

Suddenly we heard someone playing the pipes – Scotland the Brave, Amazing Grace and a variety of other marches that I couldn't name. Clearly another displaced Jock – marching up and down in his back garden getting in a bit of practice.

Are we going the right way?

Left Albany for a drive through the Southern Forests – with a couple of winery stops on the way.

On each of the 2 legs of the journey – about 90mins and 150km each - we saw a constant stream of cars and campervans heading towards us but only two vehicles on the road ahead of us.

Settled into our holiday home in Augusta in time for cold beer and a stroll up to the pub for supper. The house, which is owned by a friend of Kirsty's, is a great place – another great party venue and all the comforts of home – think we should be quite happy here for the week.

Have booked a wine tour of the Margaret River Wineries for tomorrow and just about to head for the beach.

Remembering

In addition to being the first British settlement in WA – some years before the Swan River – Albany is probably best known for being the port from which the ANZAC convoys sailed in 1914 on their way to Gallipoli.

There are major commemorations planned for 1^st November 2014– the centenary of the departure of the first convoy of 36 ships with 30,000 troops on board – and for 25^th April 2015 – the centenary of the landings at Gallipoli where over 11,000 of the troops were killed during 8 months of the unsucessful – and perhaps futile – assault.

Alongside the programme of events planned in the UK to commemorate the start of the war and the subsequent assaults with their ensuing carnage, it was sobering to recognise that the effects of the war were felt so keenly even at this distance.

It's not all beer and sunshine.

Our second day in Albany was grey and overcast – but still 24C – and we even had a passing rain shower to catch us out.

Moved to our self catering place today – would be a great place for a party – sleeps 8 and lots of space along with a great balcony looking over Princess Royal Bay.

We were glad to get away from our B&B landlady, while the place was fine and she was pleasant enough, she was just so stressed about every detail and insisted on telling us all about it. Her husband was a complete contrast – very relaxed ex-sheep farmer who seemed to take everything – particularly her – in his stride.

Did all the historic stuff this morning – the Museum and the replica of the Brig -Amity – which brought the first settlers. Also saw a great exhibition of the best from the ANZANG photography competition – some excellent wildlife shots.

Also managed our first wine tasting at Alkoomi, who conveniently have a little place right in town. Came away with a couple of samples – a Riesling and a Shiraz Viognier - to get us through Friday evening. Also found the local fish merchant and a couple of Queen Snapper fillets to go with the Riesling.

Thunderstorm right overhead to end the day, which knocked out the power for an hour or so – not long enough to affect our sundowners – and then the sky cleared to let us see the sunset behind the wind farm.