Day 12 – Wednesday 1st January 2020

 Missed breakfast, but up in time to see our approach to the South Orkneys. 0C outside, overcast with 10-15kt wind – gusting to 25kts.

This was not part of our original itinerary but resulted from the course we took avoid the weather.  It was a unique opportunity to visit the research station at Scotia Bay on Laurie Island originally established in 1902 by the Scottish National Antarctic Expedition led by William Spiers Bruce on the ‘Scotia’.

Bruce’s expedition had been privately funded - mostly by the Coats family - but he offered the base to the British government when his funds ran low. They had refused to fund the original expedition and were now preoccupied funding Scott’s ‘Discovery’ expedition so Bruce did a deal with Argentina and handed the station over to them for US$80 in 1904.

It is known as Orcadas Station and has operated year round ever since which makes it the oldest continuously operated research station in Antarctica. Miko, our Historian, was a great fan of Bruce and reckoned that ‘Scotia’ was the most successful scientific expedition of its time. 

The anchorage is surrounded by ice bergs and humpback whales with the usual education programme deferred for outdoor berg watching – which we can do from the comfort and warmth of our cabin.

We started with a Zodiac Cruise with Jen where we saw Adelie penguins for the first time along with Chinstraps, Gentoos, and a huge flock of Imperial ormorants feeding in a raft. We also saw our first Weddell seals relaxing on an ice floe, and some amazing ice formations.

Adelie Penguin

Weddell Seals on Ice floe

Landed at the base, where the first thing we saw was a Saltire flying alongside the Argentine flag. They are proud of their connection to Bruce and have even declared the site of his original hut – Omond House – a national historic monument.

We were given a guided tour of the base by one of the staff who spend 12-14 months on the island at a time. Coffee and cake in their messroom and then on to view the remains of  Omond house with a stop at the Graveyard to see the grave of the Alan Ramsey who died of a heart attack here in 1903. He was the only member of the Scotia expedition who didn’t make it home – Bruce named Mount Ramsey in his memory.

Alan Ramsey's Grave

Mount Ramsey

Back on board for a short journey to Coronation Island where we watched the sunsetnon the snow coverep peaks and the glaciers.

Then back into our full gear for an evening zodiac cruise at Spindle Cove - Adelie Penguins, an adult elephant seal moulting, and lots of ice and ice bergs. Not much opportunity for the photographers as the sun was setting but the light was amazing. Back on board just before midnight.

There’s an active British research station on nearby Signy Island but they were not open to visitors at any time.