A Strange Feeling

29th December
Being back in the Barbican – but not in our own home – feels very odd. However we have been busy with unpacking, sorting, packing, shopping, meeting up with friends etc, so no time to worry too much.
Big thank you to Bank of Ireland in Ennistymon - still time for helpful personal service - so that I could get the cash to pay for the replacement car. Driving 900 miles through some very bad winter weather was a challenge and probably as well that I didn’t have to do it in the MG. The Focus has been fine – after the initial panic when it leaked most of its engine oil due to mistake by the mechanic doing the service. Luckily I noticed before I had gone to far and managed to limp back to the garage to get it sorted.
Think we are almost there now – last shopping trip this afternoon and then off to my folks for Hogmanay. Then back to London for final packing over the weekend. Don’t know how I will fit all this stuff into the backpacks but that will be Sunday’s problem. Luckily we have opted to fly to Costa Rica via Madrid rather than the USA so should avoid the new security measures – not sure how I would cope with Rosa Kleb searching my keks for high explosives!

The best laid plans….

19th December
As we finish in Ireland – for the time being – we were counting on the MG getting us back to London – via Airdrie - and had organised our schedule accordingly. As luck would have it, the good old MG died on Friday evening as we were on our way to the Doctor’s surgery for our final inoculation.
It appears that this may be a life-threatening – if not terminal - problem and certainly not one that can be resolved in the week before Christmas. After 12 hours of discussion, telephone calls – still no internet access – and helpful friends, we decided that the only viable solution was to try to buy a replacement vehicle which would allow us to keep to our original plan.
Unfortunately – unlike our Canadian Banker friend – we couldn’t stretch to a new BMW right now but have had to settle for a second hand Ford Focus. I traded a couple of hours pouring concrete with a neighbour this morning in return for his help and guidance on choosing the replacement car from a good friend of his.
One advantage is the additional space which will make the packing and journey home slightly more comfortable. All I have to do now is persuade my local bank manager to cash a sterling cheque for a substantial amount on Monday morning – watch this space!
While we carry on – more or less – as planned, the MG will spend the next 4 months under cover on a neighbour’s farm until I can return to sort it out.

Time to leave

It will seem strange to leave Moyhill – no more animal chores twice a day – substantially less sh*t to shovel and no more Burren – for a while. Despite a very wet period in July/August and of course the flooding in November, we have had a lot of great days. None more so than the last week or so with icy temperatures (-5C this morning) and clear skies – it feels as if winter has really arrived. According to a local writer - PJ Curtis, the author of ‘The Music of Ghosts‘ and ‘The Lightning Tree’:
"Christmas in the Burren –regardless of the weather - is serene, beautiful and strangely mysterious. The grey mantle of winter has long since been cast over the land and in this silent world of stone, the pale, low-lying sun, when it peeps through the shroud of leaden cloud, highlights a rich tapestry of deep-winter colours. There are deep carpets of fallen leaves and also of furze, hazel-bush and of bracken, in every possible hue of russet and dark-brown. So too are the varied mosses, and other winter shrubs. The trees of Christmas, the Rowan, the Holly and Ivy, are in their full regalia of blossom. You will experience no green so startling as that of a lone holly-bush pushing up from a craggy limestone fissure. Startling too is the sight of red holly-berries on a bush which was previously barren. Peer a little closer and you may be rewarded with a glimpse of a tiny robin perched among the prickly holly-leaves glistening with silver droplets of rain; its red breast competing madly with a profusion of red berries."
Hard to follow – except to wish you all a very merry Christmas and a happy and healthy 2010.

Getting ready for the rainforest

Having finally managed to identify the 9 or 10 varieties of birds which feed regularly around the cottage, we are now studying the 30 or so species of birds which we will be expected to identify when we get to Tortuguero. The Herons, Egrets and Kingfishers should be straightforward but the jacana and the purple gallinule may be a challenge.
We have 5 days in London after Christmas to get ready for our trip and do a bit of shopping before packing up and heading for Heathrow on Jan 5th. Not sure if there will be time for blog entries before then but will try to keep in touch from Costa Rica when we have internet access.

It must be Christmas

The dulcet tones of Shane McGowan singing Fairytale of New York with Kirsty McColl; a poinsettia on the window sill; a distinct aroma of cloves and cinnamon wherever you go; and houses lit up as if they had never heard of climate change; it must be Christmas – I even heard a story of a Canadian banker who bought himself a new BMW!
As everyone knows, Christmas is a time for families and nowhere more so than here in Ireland. We were chatting with a young couple who live nearby and learned that between them they have 17 siblings – all of whom are married and living within a 5 mile radius. Assuming an average of two children per couple (low for this part of the country) this means that the immediate family group including a grandparent or two would need a whole flock of turkeys and a couple of geese in reserve…

Running out of time

Since we only have a week left at Moyhill, there are a number of to-do lists on the go and a lengthy discussion about when we should start packing. I think there will be plenty of time next weekend but Linda wants to start a bit sooner.
5 days without rain has been a real bonus even if the temperature is down around -4 in the mornings. The log supply has lasted the course - with a little bit of turf bought in - and we may even finish all the lamb in the freezer.
Internet continues to be the only frustration - one laptop has died completely and the other refuses to hold the dial-up connection - so we are at the library regularly as we finalise arrangements for our departure and for the CA trip.

Chorizo

We disposed of the first batch of mice in the loft with poisoned bait which had the unfortunate consequence of a very bad smell in the office when they crawled into a dark corner to die. Had to find them and remove them to get rid of the smell.
Decided to rely on traps thereafter and have been trying a variety of things from the fridge to tempt mice to the traps which I set each morning. Without doubt, Chorizo is the best solution. have managed to catch at least one a day for the last week or so.
My strike rate has dropped off a bit over the last couple of days and I am hoping that's because we are running out of mice.

Does anyone have a rubber dinghy we can borrow?

Apparently, the west of Ireland has had 4 months worth of rain in the last 3 weeks – and it hasn’t stopped yet. As a result, the Shannon waterway is close to being overwhelmed by the sheer volume of water which is trying to make its way to the sea. Hindered by exceptionally high tides and strong westerly winds, the water has now backed up into areas which have not been flooded in living memory. We have escaped the worst of this but there are a lot of families across the county who have seen their homes inundated and are not expecting the waters to recede for a week or more. There are aerial photos of some of the flooding on the Clare FM website. Perhaps there are advantages to living in a city centre flat on the 6th floor!

Do I look like a fecking truck driver?

While the dress code here in Clare may be a little more relaxed than in EC2, one tries to maintain a certain standard. In pursuit of this goal, I visited my barber in Ennistymon today – not just any old barber but a transplanted Dub who has helped me to understand the vagaries of the Irish economy and political life over the last few months.
As I left Ed’s place, on my way to meet Linda, I was accosted by the driver of a late model Mercedes saloon – apparently the owner of a local hotel – who was upset by a parked truck which was blocking access to his driveway. In response to the question “are you the driver of that truck?” I regret that I could manage nothing better than the response above.

Spanish with Mrs O’Riordan

Only two more Spanish classes to go and I am beginning to wonder if the Costa Rican population will understand my irish-accented Spanish. There are only two of us in the class and Michelle from Newmarket on Fergus is really only interested in ordering more beer, finding out when the bars open and negotiating the price for her next tattoo. This has limited our conversation somewhat – although I have learned a few new English words! It was almost a relief to arrive today to find that she hadn’t been able to come to class because of the flooding. 1 ½ hours of one-to-one conversation with Mrs O’Riordan however was a bit of a challenge.

More farming!

Keith had asked if we could move Molly back to our land this morning to allow room for his new foal. Managed this before breakfast and then went down to see how things were on the farm. I spent the rest of the morning helping build new accommodation for the ducks, watching the vet deal with a cow with a prolapse and preparing a space for the new foal. During all of this we had more torrents of rain and gale force winds which added to the enjoyment. We also had to clear vermin which we uncovered when moving a stack of straw bales. Discovered that some of the mice we dispatched were actually baby rats when the mother rat appeared from under the last bale. Unfortunately she took us all by surprise and escaped into the yard.
Michael arrived with the new filly just before lunch and Linda came down to check her out in the afternoon. A very pretty dun Connemara pony with black mane and tail. No name yet but watch this space.
It was fun to visit the big city but it’s good to be home!

Weather

Have seen the reports of the floods in Cumbria, but I think things have been as bad in Cork, Ballinasloe and Ennis where hundreds of people have been evacuated and there are still many areas under water. We’ve seen gale force winds and torrents of rain at Moyhill but most of the water runs down the hill in front of the house and cause us no problem.

Journey home

According to the AA Routeplanner it is 162 miles from Dublin to Moyhill and should take 3 hours. The first part of the journey was very easy – away from the hotel by 10.00, found the motorway with no problem and by 11.45 we had covered 92 miles and reached the exit for Ballinasloe where the main road was closed due to flooding. Unfortunately it took 5 hours to cover the remaining 107 miles due to flooded roads and an extremely roundabout route – spoke to more Gardai today than in the last 8 months trying to find out about passable local roads. It’s all very well for the HGV’s and the landcruisers to plough through the water covering the road – a bit different with a ground clearance of 4 inches!
To cap it all, within 20 mins of getting home we had a powercut – due to heavy rains – which fortunately only lasted an hour. Must remember to replenish the stock of candles and pick up a primus stove!

Melody Gardot

Thursday night at the Olympia Theatre in Dublin for a concert by Melody Gardot – my birthday present from Linda. A great venue and even better performance but not sure I can cope with the Dubs!
Clearly city dwellers who are important and busy and have no time to wait for the end of a number before disrupting the other people in their row – and the entire audience – by their numerous trips to the toilets. One blonde executive bimbo, with her mother in tow, wouldn’t wait for the start of the programme – which was a little delayed – and left noisily and ostentatiously from the middle of a row ahead of us only to return 15 mins after the show had begun and then leave again less than half way through the set.
Melody Gardot was fabulous – if you have not heard her yet then check out either of her two albums – ‘My one and only thrill’ and Worrisome Heart’ - or catch the show when she comes your way.

Dublin

On College Green there is a statue of that famous seafood saleswoman Molly Malone with her wheelbarrow which is a great favourite with camera laden tourists. Due to the style and dress of the female figure – which may more accurately reflect Ms Malone’s true profession – it is known to the locals as the “Tart with the Cart”. This struck me as an appropriate epithet for the city itself which is extravagantly dressed up for Christmas in the midst of the “credit crunch”
In the same vein, ahead of the Budget – due on Dec 9th – the Irish trade unions are arranging a couple of national strikes just to show their opposition to any cuts which the government may be thinking about. They all agree that the economy is fecked but insist that someone else should bear the costs. I am glad that we will be away from here before the budget takes effect!
We did enjoy some good and varied food (no need for Irish stew although still had a few Guinness) and were able to walk to most venues!

Icons

Had a great three days with my uncle Jack in Donaghadee – I can only pray that I will be as able as he is when I am in my 80’s (assuming I last that long) although I’m not even sure I can match him now. He managed a house full of family for PJ’s party and then served up Sunday dinner for 6, all in a relaxed and stress free manner. He made us feel very welcome and nothing was ever a problem – a real example for all of us. Oscar – his Jack Russell - is a character but seems to have mellowed since we last saw him or perhaps he’s more relaxed on his home patch.

Old Friends

It was great to see old friends from the UK last week. They were here for a couple of days, and although the weather wasn’t great we did manage to get out and about to see some of the sights. They arrived with an embarrassingly large package of goodies from Carluccios and Majestic. Should keep us going until Christmas! In return we were able to give them a liver from one of the latest lambs to go to the butcher that week – which I hope they enjoyed when they got home. Since they also live in the middle of nowhere we spent most of our time just chatting, reminiscing and agreeing with each other how great it was to live in the ‘country’ – funny how you don’t miss such good company until …….

Travelling again!

Off to the North tomorrow for my cousin PJ’s 50th birthday party followed by a few days visiting my Uncle in Donaghadee.
Then we are going on to Dublin for a couple of days – and a Melody Gardot Concert at the Olympia theatre which was my Birthday present from Linda. While I am sure we will have a good time, it has been a bit of a challenge preparing to be away from the cottage for a whole week! In London we would normally be travelling at least once every 6 weeks yet this will only be our third trip away in 8 months. Perhaps we are just a little too settled and the trip to Costa Rica will be the ideal way to get back to reality – who knows!

Just another afternoon at Moyhill

9th November
Visitors arriving from the UK tomorrow, so after a morning shopping, picking up the MG – finally repaired – dropping off the hire car and home for a late lunch, the cold wet afternoon was the perfect time for a bit of cooking prep and baking. Had just finished making dough for a loaf of sourdough and put it to one side to prove (the bathroom floor under the radiator has proved the ideal place for this) and got on the jacket and wellies to feed the donkey, when Keith called to ask for help rounding up a couple of escaped cows. Perfect timing – spent the next hour getting the cows back where they belonged, re-rigging the electric fence and tracking down the short-circuit which had lead to the escape. Arrived home – drenched to the skin – just in time to finish the bread making.

The Ceilidh Band Competition

9th November
Last weekend was the Ennis Trad festival which included concerts, pub sessions, CD launches and of course the Ceilidh Band Competition on Saturday night. Paid our €15 each and joined about 600 others in the banquet suite of the West County Hotel to watch 10 bands from across the west of Ireland compete for a €5000 first prize. It was a very close competition but there was one clear winner – both in the view of the professional judges and the audience vote. In addition to some great music, the people-watching was tremendous fun.

Farewell to Lucy & Sean

9th November
The pony and her colt went off to market on Saturday – her visit to the stallion back in June didn’t have the required effect so she had limited value for Keith. In addition the market for the colt – with no particular bloodline – has collapsed over the last year or so. Even so, it was a surprise to hear that he only got €190 for the pair. It has cost more than that in feed over the last 6 months
Sorry to see them go as they have both spent a lot of time on the paddock and we have been feeding and caring for them for the last 4 months. Only Molly – the donkey – left under our care now and she’s feeling a bit lonely.

Lightning strike

9th November
We had been promised thunderstorms among the heavy showers on Friday but didn’t see any evidence until bedtime when we heard a very loud strike which was close enough to knock out our electricity supply and the telephone line (found out later that it hit the electric fence on one of the neighbouring fields). We went to bed hoping that the power loss would not affect our freezer full of lamb and woke to find that the electricity had been restored within an hour. Unfortunately the telephone is still out after six days but should be restored tonight (Friday)

A Daihatsu Sirion?

9th November
After 5 days without car, decided that we would have to rent something for a few days and called the local hire car operators. Had to wait 24 hrs until there was anything available and arrived at the dealers to find that the only car they could offer was a 1.0L Daihatsu Sirion. Despite initial reservations it proved ideal for few days running around Co Clare – luckily we don’t have any big hills to get up! In addition, the fuel consumption was very economical – only used €20 in 5 days.

Central America beckons

5th November
Have now confirmed our flights for January and made the arrangements for the first half of the trip which will see us volunteering on a rainforest project on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. Likely to be a bit of a shock to the system since we will be living in a bunkhouse with 15 or 16 others with limited electricity and only cold water showers. In addition we have just learned that the usual day starts with breakfast at 0430 so that the work can be done before it gets too hot. One of the projects is monitoring Jaguars and this involves a 15 mile beach walk – with daypacks and 5 litres of water. Have been practising on some of our soft sand beaches here but have only got up to 5 miles so far. It’s not quite the same in driving wind and rain and three layers of winter clothes

The Clare Harvest Banquet

5th November
One of the outstanding local events in October was the Clare Harvest Banquet in the Falls Hotel in Ennistymon which celebrated the produce of County Clare. From meat and vegetables to seafood and cheeses and country wines as well, the buffet dinner consisted entirely of local produce. A great idea – especially the provision of contact details for each supplier - and one which should be encouraged more widely as a way of showing people what is available from local suppliers.

Lambs to the slaughter

Helped prepare the lambs for their journey to the butcher a couple of weeks ago and knew we would have to wait a few days for our share of the meat to arrive. It was a pleasant surprise when Keith arrived back and asked if we were interested in the livers and kidneys because he didn’t want them. Still warm when he dropped the bag in my hand! We had peppered liver for dinner and Riñones al la Jerez for the next day and still plenty of liver for the freezer. When the rest of the meat arrived we had nearly 10 kg of lamb in a variety of cuts. Guess we won’t be in the butchers for a while. Tried the chops first and they were tremendous – lovely sweet flavour. We had a roast shoulder on Sunday night and it was just as good – and as a bonus, plenty of leftovers for stovies tonight!

Country life

Think I can probably add “farm labourer” to my cv now. Over the last six months I have helped feed, care for and generally deal with cows & calves, sheep and lambs, ponies and foals, donkeys, dogs, geese and ducks. In addition I have shovelled the copious amounts of sh*t that they produce when they have been kept inside for any reason. By a conservative estimate I have probably shifted more than a ton of the stuff. Still my ex-colleagues would probably tell you that I should be an expert as I spent a lot of my working life dealing with the same stuff in a different form.

November???

Well that’s a record even for me – how did I manage to get through October without a single blog entry? Could claim to have been busy – which is partly true; have been accused of being lazy - which is probably also partly true; could blame the dry and settled weather which we had for about 6 weeks – which kept me outside during the day. Suffice to say that I'm sorry its been so long.
However that’s in the past and it is now November; weather has changed – persistent heavy rain showers and a definite drop in the temperature. It all seemed to change for the worse when the clocks went back. Don’t really notice the extra daylight in the morning but it is a pain to have to finish any outside work by 5.30pm.
I will catch up on all the news from October in the next few days or so but we start the new month without the car which managed to blow a connection on the cooling system as we arrived in Ennis last Thursday evening. Keith gave me a tow back to his place on Friday and we are now waiting for the MG parts to arrive which could be a few more days. Luckily we had just done a shopping run and with the delivery of our lamb from the butcher, have a freezer full of meat. Have had the bike out twice so far – weekend newspapers and other essentials - but may have to hire a car for a few days if it goes on much longer. Public transport doesn’t feature in this part of the country.The other effect of the change in the weather is the influx of small furry creatures into our loft. Have set traps and put down some bait but still hear them running around in the ceiling – one of them even joined us on Friday evening as we were trying to watch a DVD. Not sure where the little bugger came from or where he went to but clearly need more traps

Spanish Lessons

Have now more or less committed to the trip to Central America. Planning to leave on 5th January for San Jose in Costa Rica and spend the first 5-6 weeks as volunteers on a rainforest project in the north east of the country in Tortuguera National Park.
In preparation, I have signed up for Spanish classes at the local community college to brush up the language a bit. Slightly embarrassing on meeting the tutor to blag my way on to the intermediate course – couldn’t respond to her first three questions - had a complete blank as I haven’t spoken Spanish for at least a year and her questions didn’t refer to beer, wine or food.
Now busy revising in preparation for the first class which is on 6th Oct. Linda’s doing flower arranging which I’m sure will come in useful somewhere along the line though not necessarily in Central America – but then you never know…

Internet

Our dial-up connection has not worked properly for the last 10 days, so we are back to visiting the Ennistymon library to check mail and update the blog. Not really a hardship but there is always something that I meant to check which I remember about 10 mins after I have finished my online session. Still – as frustrations go it is fairly manageable.

Dingle Peninsula

Great place for a short visit and only 250 mile round-trip from Moyhill. Helped by good weather – top down for a lot of the time but caught out a couple of times by the arrival of a short but very heavy shower.
Only 38 miles to the ferry across the Shannon at Killimer but it took the full hour we had allowed – you really don’t get anywhere fast in the west of Ireland.
Found a great place to stay in Dingle after Linda had rejected the first 3 recommended by the tourist office as not being up to scratch. Also found two great restaurants – the Half Door and The Global Village – two Irish chefs who are making the most of the local fish and seafood. Managed Black Sole, Turbot, Plaice, Haddock, Scallops and Kippers during our stay and it was all very fresh – stopped at the shop at the fish market on our way home and filled the cold bag with enough to feed us for a few more days.
According to the guide book there are 55 pubs in Dingle for a population of only 1,775!! However there were quite a number of tourists around – mostly American which helped to crowd the bars. We were in one place which was a traditional shoe shop on one side and a bar on the other side. The musicians sat behind the shoe shop counter with the punters on a bench on the other side; 30 people in there and it was full.
On Thursday after dinner we wandered across the road and saw Tread – a group of young Irish, Canadian and American musicians who have played with the Chieftains for a number of years and now out on their own – great music and step dancing – in the back room of MacCarthy’s Bar – where else - one of Ireland’s smallest venues.
Didn’t manage the climb up Mt Brandon but did get a great walk at the top of the Connor Pass, also managed walks along the Three Sisters and over the top of Brandon Point – and all in dry sunny weather!

Leaving Co Clare

Since we arrived here at Easter, we have only left the county on four occasions – once to UK and three times to Connemara for fishing trips with John. Decided to stretch the envelope this week and planning a few days down in Dingle which coincides with our anniversary. Have suggested climbing Mt Brandon (956m) but don’t think Linda is too impressed – she's expecting a spa hotel and at least one Michelin star!

Future plans

Before we left for our week away, we had decided that we would stay at Moyhill until Christmas and then go travelling to Central America – in search of sun and warmth – until Easter. After three warm sunny days when we got back here, we were thinking about staying here forever. Am sure it will all change again after the next spell of wet weather but who knows?

Strange Canadians

Linda spoke to her cousin Jim in Toronto today – I am sure you all remember Jim – he was the one at our wedding who had a seemingly bottomless glass of CC & coke. He has just received a care package from a work colleague who had returned from a holiday in Scotland – Tunnocks tea cakes, caramel wafers, and chocolate mini rolls - unfortunately he missed out on the strawberry tarts and customs must have confiscated the bottle of Buckfast! (did I mention before that the upmarket bottle shops here have Buckie in the cold cabinets.)

Has it really been that long???

After a week back in the UK, we returned to Moyhill and have had dry sunny weather for the last 12 days. Night temperatures have dropped to single figures so we are glad that Eugene got the chimney sorted when we were away. The Log burner is going well but I may have to cut down a few more forests as we are going through logs at quite a rate. (Linda reckons that adjusting the fire controls is proving a great substitute for the TV remote control we left behind in London)
Being back in England / Scotland seemed a little unreal – very busy everywhere and much more commercial. Managed one Starbucks and a few pints of London Pride and Gales HSB while I was away. Thankfully my Mum came through her operation successfully and is now recovering well and has already been given the all clear by the cancer clinic.
We picked up here where we left off and it did feel like coming home. Busy with various animals to care for – in addition to the pony and colt, and the donkey – now in foal – I am also keeping the sheepdog and two 9 month pups exercised every day. Have just started walking the pups on a lead which is a challenge but they are beginning to respond – it also means that I am getting plenty of exercise. In addition to the three dogs up at the barn, Keith also has two dogs at the house and one – another collie – had a litter of 7 pups about three weeks ago. We cycled down to see them at the weekend and it would have been very easy to bring one of them home with us. However we settled for a side of one of the lambs which are off to the butcher in the next week or so. Having watched them grow since we arrived in April – and chased them from our paddock and helped feed them from time to time and shepherd them around, I am looking forward to the first roast leg – mmmmm…

Trip back to Blighty

We are heading back to the UK on Friday for a week for family reasons. Not sure how we are going to cope with the south of England and central belt Scotland for 7 days – will be interesting though to find out.
Whilst we are away our landlord Eugene has promised to fix the chimney for the wood burning stove, which involves dropping down a new flue pipe from the top as something has stopped the fire from drawing. Evenings are becoming a little chilly now and since I’ve cut a shed load of logs we’re keen to get it sorted.

Jam making

We’ve tried making a variety of things since we got here; bread, scones, shortbread, lemon curd etc. which have generally been edible - some even quite good. So with the hedgerows full of brambles Linda decided to try her hand at a bit of jam making today… Blackberries, sugar and heat were all that was required - not sure what when wrong - but we ended up with a saucepan full of burnt toffee. Maybe too much heat for too long? Advice gratefully received – Ros?

Another Week

Luckily, the problem with the car was a leaking radiator – not quite as expensive as changing the cylinder head gasket. Unfortunately it took a couple of days to get the replacement radiator so we had to rent a car for our trip to Connemara on Wednesday; still it was well worth it.
Had a great evening with Sue and John and Peter and Iona trying not to drink too much before our fishing trip.
Thursday looked a little grey but was still dry at breakfast – I commented that I had had three sunny days on the boat with John this year and he suggested that this may be payback time – and so it proved. We had full waterproofs for the trip out of Cleggan and needed them. In addition to the driving rain, we also had the remainder of the swell from Hurricane Bill. I lost my breakfast by the time we got to our first stop and despite John’s best efforts we could not find a sheltered fishing spot in deep water. Then the rain stopped and the sun came out, but the wind was blowing force 8 all afternoon. Eventually found a place in shallow water but only managed to catch dogfish. We still had a great day out although I had to save my lunch until we were driving home in the evening.
Peter and Iona stayed with us for the weekend – having delivered our order of wine from Majestic to keep us supplied for the next month or two - and between the frequent & heavy showers we managed the walk on Mullaghmore and they had a round of golf at Kilrush.

WET WET WET

I heard today that Marty Pellow was playing his only concert in Ireland in Dublin at the end of this month… Just after the weather forecast had told us that after 3 times the normal rainfall in July, we have already had 3 ½ times the average for August in the first three weeks.
The figures exclude today which has probably been the wettest yet with flooding and road closures all around our local area. Couldn’t even get to the shop for the Sunday paper! In the midst of all this our first Mexican sunflower, planted earlier in the year when it wasn’t nearly so wet, has just opened!

Showing her age …

The wee MG has done brilliantly since we arrived in Ireland 4+ months ago. She’s coped admirably with the less than perfect roads (and that’s just getting down our lane), been driven 6 days out of 7 (a new experience for her as well as us. In London we usually had to use the battery booster to get her started as we only drove about once every 6 weeks or so). However in the last couple of weeks there have been a few little problems, and on Friday we had steam pouring out of the boot where the coolant system is located. Looks like she may need a new cylinder head gasket although fingers crossed it’s only a leaking hose but at 11+ years old … it’s probably the gasket. Keith who farms next door is also a car mechanic and he is taking her away tomorrow night to look see. Fear our trip to Connemara on Wed could be in jeopardy.

Celebrities

Had to miss out on our weekly trip to see the fishman at Miltown Malbay on Friday afternoon as we had tickets for a concert in Ennis that night. As a result we missed the Social Event of the Year when Andrea Corr (of The Corrs!) married Brian Desmond (son of Dermot Desmond property developer, Celtic FC shareholder etc) in the church at Miltown Malbay with a reception for 400 people afterwards at the Doonbeg Golf & Country Club. Clearly the Irish A-List were all in attendance and the local radio was snowed under with sightings of Bono in a sports car, Martin O’Neill, Gordon Strachan and Padraig Harrington. Apparently Geldof was clocked filling up with petrol, the Popemobile had stopped to ask for directions and Michael Jackson and Elvis were sharing a black limousine from Shannon!
Just imagine who we could have met in the fish queue.

The things we do for …. A quiet life!

Yesterday we spent the whole day at a set dancing workshop at the Feakle Festival – something that Linda was keen to try. We joined with about 20 other beginners – including a blind couple from Connecticut - in the back room of Bohan’s pub as Dierdre tried to teach us a Clare Set dance called the Caledonian.
As many of you may recall, my dancing skills are on a par with my child-minding talents and the day proved challenging in many ways – fortunately the bar was open and after a couple of pints of the black stuff I found that things seemed to go much more smoothly.
I had always assumed that my severely impaired dancing ability was a result of having two left feet. However despite being encouraged by early attempts (post Guinness) which demonstrated that I could move left foot and right foot independently, it all came to grief when I discovered that at the crucial step I couldn’t remember which was which – same result really.
Still enthusiasm seemed to be sufficient and my blind partner from Connecticut thought I did very well. Unfortunately Linda pulled a calf muscle during the last set which has slowed her down a bit.

Muhammad Ali

Over the years, it has become obligatory for every President of the USA to identify his Irish roots and make a visit to the old homestead – knowing how well it plays with the huge Irish American lobby.
However even I was somewhat sceptical at the headline in the Clare Champion this week which trumpeted the planned visit to Ennis in the next few weeks by Muhammad Ali to visit his old family home.
It turns out that when Abe O’Grady emigrated from Turnpike Road in Ennis in the 1860’s he landed in Kentucky and married an African American girl. Their son also married an African American girl and their daughter married Cassius Clay Senior………
We are now in the grip of Ali fever as the town prepares for the visit on September 1st. There are hoards of O’Grady’s coming out of the woodwork to participate and the Mayor is expecting more that 50,000 people to attend the event.
Ali will be awarded the Freedom of the Town - the first time this honour has been bestowed on anyone - and there are plans to name a street after him as well.
Any bets on renaming O’Connell Street after the Louisville Slugger?

An apology

In a recent blog on the subject of ‘late onset’ alcohol misuse among over-60’s, it appears I may have inadvertently suggested that my old pal Jimmy C only took up drinking seriously after he retired. This was not my intention at all and I am happy to apologise unreservedly if that was the impression given.
As many of us know, during his working life – as a representative of Her Majesty’s Government – Jimmy drank prodigious amounts of alcohol in the line of duty – mostly while involved in difficult and life threatening operations!

"Ahh, go on! - Go on, go on, go on, go on, go on, go on..."

The first Sunday means that it was the monthly walk organised by the BurrenBeo Trust with a starting point at Carran for a walk entitled “Myths and legends of Slievenaglasha” with local farmer and folklorist Patrick MacCormack. Since this is the August Bank Holiday weekend in Ireland, it has of course been cool and wet since Friday!
Despite the rain - which started as we gathered for the walk at 2.00pm and continued for the rest of the afternoon – there were 60-70 people (including a lady who was well into her 80’s and a number of small children) who took part and we all happily followed Patrick up the hill side and on towards the fort of Lon the Blacksmith “who had three arms and one leg”; on to Glas Gaibhneach hill and the legend of the Fairy Cow which “gave so much milk that there were never containers large enough or numerous enough that they could not be filled”; and past cairns, wedge tombs and many other stories, recitations and archaeological sites.
At this point Patrick offered the option of returning the way we had come – or following him along a more difficult path over the hill and down to his home where he would offer us all a cup of tea.
I didn’t see anyone take the option of returning by the easy path and we continued for another hour or so on a wet and windy hillside until we descended through a muddy hazel wood to open farmland and the short walk to Patrick’s family home – which many of you would recognise as “Father Ted’s House on Craggy Island”
Despite being confronted by a horde of wet, hungry and thirsty walkers, Cheryl - Patrick’s wife - laid on copious amounts of tea and an array of cakes, biscuits and scones which would have done Mrs Doyle proud.

Problem drinking after retirement

A recent report from “Ireland’s premier health website” suggested that there is “…an epidemic of ‘late onset’ alcohol misuse among over-60’s who turn to drink after retirement” It went on to note that “one in eight people over 60 admitted to drinking more since retiring” and that a similar number “most often drink alone at home”. While not in this age group myself, I did immediately think of my good friend Jimmy C. In the vague hope that he may see this blog, I wanted to suggest that he should consider only drinking when he is away from home (shouldn’t be too much of a problem) alternatively he should ensure that Madame C always keeps him company!

On the subject of drink, I mentioned recently that our most recent visitors had brought generous supplies of malt whisky. Have now had the chance to taste these properly and realise how generous they were. The first bottle -a cask strength offering from the SMWS (73-34) – a 16 year old Speyside (I think)??? which had been finished in a Bourbon cask – has a tremendous nose and a lovely light flavour. Not sure that I can identify all the flavours in the tasting notes but I am certainly enjoying it. The second bottle was a new offering from Bunnahabhain – Darach Ur – which has been matured in new oak and is a completely different – but equally enjoyable – taste. Thanks again - guess I may have to be nice about Hibs this season!

Spiders

We have an ongoing debate about spiders – of which we have many. Linda is keen to get rid of them all while I think that they are useful allies which control the other pests which could bother us more. I was reading recently about spiders somewhere in the tropical rainforest which cooperate to deal with prey substantially larger than themselves – wonder if you could train them to deal with that ultimate pest – small children?

Rain, Rain, Rain

Just when you think it can’t rain anymore or it can’t rain any harder, an almighty torrential downpour - which would give any Asian city a run for its money - comes over the hill. The TV weather forecaster tonight told us that so far in July there has been 3 times the monthly average of rain.
We came here with absolutely no expectations on the weather but after a glorious June (warmest in 27 years according to that TV weather forecaster) we did kind of get used to nice warm, calm, sunny weather. July has certainly been a reality check!

Fish, Fish, Fish

As we were sitting having an excellent lunch today in Linnanes seafood restaurant at New Quay (1/2 dozen oysters and panfried scallops for LP, mussels and turbot for me), Linda remarked that we have not had any red meat for nearly three weeks. Probably because we have finally found a local fisherman who sells his catch direct to the public and have been trying almost everything he has had to offer. So far this has included Turbot, Hake, Gurnard, Pollack, Cod, Ling, Salmon, Coley, Haddock, and Lemon Sole. Last week he also had Brill, John Dory, Plaice and Mackerel so there are a few more to try.
Still had better stop by the butcher some time this week before we forget what red meat tastes like.

Corofin Show

Yesterday was the North Clare Agricultural Show at Corofin and as the rain stayed off for the whole day we cycled down to join in the fun. Spent nearly an hour watching the cattle being judged and swapping comments with a neighbour (apparently he couldn’t understand a word I was saying?)
Also watched the horse and pony judging and then moved on to the show jumping – meant to go back to see the donkey judging but naturally the programme was running a bit behind time and the pub beckoned. We also stopped in the village hall to see the results of the vegetable and baking contests – all the edible products were protected behind a wire fence for some reason!
On the cycle home, Linda made it up the big hill without stopping and didn’t even need the oxygen cylinder when we got home – although she did insist on a glass of fizz to celebrate!

Time flies when you are having fun!

Not sure what has happened to the time but just realised that it is nearly three weeks since our last blog entry. Have managed some great walks – along the famine road at Mullaghmore, on the green road from Gortlecka to the high common at Parknabinnia and also the green road around Black Head (green roads are used to drive the cattle from A to B, definitely not roads for driving in the MGF, but good to walk on); some new experiences – signed up as volunteers to help with a survey of Daubenton Bats on local rivers ( which means that we get out on river banks late at night with Bat Detectors and head torches…..look out Dan Ackroyd!); Bought a new saw and have cut up a couple of the fallen trees on the edge of the paddock for winter fuel; went to a couple of local festivals – French market in Ennis was very disappointing, Seafood festival in Doonbeg was excellent while the final concert of the Willie Clancy Summer school in Milltown Malbay was incredible!
Had some friends from Edinburgh to visit – who brought generous supplies of Malt whisky and some new music. Despite some wet weather during their visit we still managed another great day sea fishing off Connemara. Also got locked in at Lowry’s Bar in Clifden while the band were still playing.
Am sure there will be more detail on some of these over the coming days but that’s it for now.

An alternative to Big Brother?

(Linda’s first blog entry)
Well we are certainly getting our farmyard education. Keith the farmer called to say he was going down to see the stallion tonight did we want to come. Sure Richard said, see you at 6pm. Being complete townies hadn’t realised it was to take Lucy to be covered for next year. She’d only given birth to her colt Sean (Linda’s naming) 9 days ago! Lucy got taken into the enclosure and the stallion was brought out. Good looking horse, fawn colour with black boots and a black mane. Foreplay was a nuzzle and some gnashing of teeth together, then it was a quick wham bam thank you mam – sound familiar… Lucy stood perfectly still and took her medicine. By the time we left there were another 2 horseboxes lining up outside and we passed another one on the way – that stallion was in for a good night!

The Burren

This really is quite a magical place – particularly when the sun is shining on the meadow at Gortlecka – in the Burren National Park – or setting over the wedge tomb on the high common at Parkanabinnia. I often wondered about the motivation for my Barbican neighbour Dick Butler who would disappear with his rucksack, sandwiches and camera to search out orchids in the English countryside. However having seen the Gortlecka meadow yesterday absolutely awash with the colours of the wild flowers – including literally hundreds of orchids – I think I begin to understand.

World Class Golf Courses

Having been in Co. Clare almost 3 months now, we made our 2nd visit to the local pitch ‘n’ putt last week. It was another beautiful morning, and with only 3 other players a good few holes in front of us, all was peaceful. However by the end of the 18 holes we were 4 balls down, I had collected a number of irritating horse fly bits and the feeling of peace and tranquillity had evaporated somewhat. So don’t think we will be progressing to any championship golf courses anytime soon, in fact the local pitch ‘n’ putt is in serious jeopardy.

Inis Oirr

Managed our first visit to one of the Aran Islands on a hot sunny day last week. 40 min ferry ride from Doolin and a planned 4 ½ hour walk around the island. By the time we reached the half way point we decided it was too hot to continue and retired to the pub for the obligatory Guinness. Managed a bit more of the walk in the late afternoon before catching the last ferry home. Over-riding impression is of miles and miles of dry stone walls.

Gardening

Have spent nearly 12 hours over the last week or so cutting down the nettles and other weeds on the paddock with a borrowed strimmer. Reckon there was about ¼ of an acre of nettles which were over 5ft tall – have to make sure you lean back when they fall. The place is looking very tidy and was fertilised yesterday to encourage the grass. Will have to keep going with the strimmer to give the grass a chance but hope that we have started to get it under control. A couple of weeks good growth and we will have the donkey and horse back again – along with Lucy’s new colt who was born on Monday. Awwww!

Driving in County Clare

Since we arrived, we have been aware of the relaxed pace of the traffic on our local roads – most of which are less than two lanes wide. This seems to have changed in the last few weeks as the farms are all busy cutting grass for silage and hay. The contractors who are cutting, baling and wrapping, are currently racing around the roads in their tractors as they move from field to field and from farm to farm. Have got used to pulling over to let them pass – I’m not in that much of a a hurry to get anywhere!
Realised this week just how much Linda has settled in. As we drove into Corofin on Sunday afternoon I asked her to stop at the Eurospar to get a newspaper. In true local style she pulled upside outside the shop and stopped to let me out – blocking the only lane and oblivious to the traffic held up in both directions.
Final comment – driving to Killaloe last week to meet my folks, we saw an elderly lady standing at a road junction with her suitcase – waiting for the bus we thought – then saw that she was thumbing a lift and as we passed without slowing, the thumb changed into a two-fingered salute!

Tour de Burren

Had a great day on Saturday, the sun shone and a headwind blew, naturally, as I completed the 60k Tour de Burren - along with about 500 other cyclists - in just over 2 ½ hours. It was a great route and extremely well organised. Tremendous to start on traffic free roads and to complete the climb up Corkscrew Hill without the threat of coaches coming the other way.

Visitors

Have had a busy few weeks with visitors – lots of fun and plenty of good food and drink – but it was quite nice to have a couple of quiet days to ourselves. My folks are over in Killaloe for a few days – so have been there a couple of times but they are heading home on Friday.
Don’t even have the cow and calf any more since the cow decided that the grass really was greener on the other side and jumped the fence, leaving poor little Dougal behind.
Busy training for the 60km Burren cycle challenge on Saturday which includes a ride up Corkscrew Hill – had a trial run at it on Sunday, so just need dry weather without a wind for the weekend and all should be fine. Tried to persuade Linda to join me but she has volunteered to be my support team instead.

Fishing

Chris arrived from London last week after promises of trout and sea-fishing. On day one we headed for Rosroe lake by Rathlahine castle, hired boat, fly rod and spinning rod and headed out on the water. It was a dry overcast day and we were the only ones on the water. Lovely day out but not a sign of a fish all day – had to text Linda to open the two tins of tuna which had been bought as a standby!
Our seafishing trip with John from Cleggan was much more successful. Drove up through Connemara – clear skies, sunshine and wonderful views - with a stop for dinner at O’Dowds in Roundstone – local oysters, mussels, salmon and pan fried cod washed down with Guinness. Early start the next morning for the full Irish breakfast from my cousin Sue – I do love the white pudding! - and onto the boat at Cleggan with 7 others. Another great day – clear skies, hardly a breeze and bright sunshine all day.
Managed to catch a good number of Pollack and some Ling and headed home in the evening with about 4 kilos of fillets. Tinned tuna once a week is enough!

How do you tell the difference between a shag and a cormorant?

Had a couple of trips last week watching seabirds. The first was on the south side of Galway Bay with an ornithologist by name of John Murphy who took us to see a small colony of terns nesting on an islet in Aughinish Bay. In addition to Common and Arctic terns there were a lot of Sandwich terns and black-headed gulls and even a Mediterranean gull. We also saw a pair of egrets on the far shore.
Then Chris and I saw a few different seabirds – including black guillemots - on our fishing trip.
Finally we went to the Cliffs of Moher with Chris and Ali and were watching puffins, guillemots, razorbills. Found that we were standing next to the warden – Tom – who was identifying different birds for us through his 20X telescope. This led to Ali’s question above and probably brightened Tom’s day considerably!

Weather

Tuesday 2nd June was hottest day in Ireland (27.5C) since summer of 2006. We have now had 11 consecutive days without rain although the temperature has dropped back to a more usual 16C. Still warm and sunny during the day so I wonder how long it will be before the papers start talking about a drought.
Neil – our racing pigeon – finally decided to leave after 5 days. We had fed and watered him for the first three days but on the advice of the experts encouraged him to depart by stopping the bird seed. It worked.
Getting used to Dougal and his mum on the paddock. Dougal has become livelier in the last day or so and beginning to chew the grass a little but mum is only interested when it is time for her feed in the morning and evening. They are not really making any inroads on the new growth so they will be joined by two more cows next week. May still have to spring for the ride-on mower – there was a comparison of the latest models in this weekend’s gardening section which I read with interest!
The mother-in-law left on Thursday – as expected she arrived bearing lots of gifts – including a litre of very drinkable malt – and was the perfect house guest. Did a lot of the tourist things and even managed to get her to weed the flowerbeds. Hope our next visitors – arriving on Monday and Wednesday respectively – are as well behaved. Looking forward to some male company and perhaps some trout fishing.

More wildlife?

As Linda was making lunch on Monday I noticed that we had been joined by a pigeon – it had wandered into the kitchen and appeared to waiting to be served food and drink. Noticed its leg ring and registration number and - having persuaded it to take its lunch outside on the deck – managed to identify it as the property of a member of the Royal Pigeon Racing Association. According to the RPRA website, a lost racing pigeon will usually be on his way home within 48 hours.
Decided to call him Neil - in light of his namesake’s recent blog comment and the pigeon’s green Hibbie neck – and hoped that he would eat his lunch and bugger off without troubling us further. Unfortunately he is still here after 36 hours and if he doesn’t take wing soon may fall victim to the stoat which appeared for the first time this afternoon – perhaps attracted by a pedigree pigeon too dumb to fly away?
True to his word, Keith had appeared on Saturday morning pushing a wheelbarrow with a day old Limousin calf closely followed by its mother and installed them on the paddock. Our duties now include ensuring that there is sufficient water in the trough and feeding the mother twice a day to enhance her milk production. The calf – unofficially named Dougal by Linda and her mum – is cute but very shy and spent most of the weekend sleeping. However by this evening has become a bit more adventurous and started checking out the boundaries of the paddock.
I suggested steak for dinner but had to settle for fish instead.

Managing livestock

Clearly now an expert in dealing with livestock, I can manage Lucy and Molly without problems. Not sure how I will cope with the cow and new calf which are due on the paddock this week to eat the greenery which the others won’t touch. However had a chance to try out my cowboy skills yesterday when Linda and I were cycling to the pub for lunch and came upon a neighbour on foot trying to corral three mares which had got loose. Donning my Stetson (always to hand in case of just such an incident) I spurred my trusty steed into action and chased said mares along the road for about a mile until I could get past them, stop them and drive them back to their grateful owner – and not a lasso in sight. Felt like I had earned my pint when we finally got to the pub!
Talking of wildlife, I was sitting with my early morning cuppa yesterday when I noticed movement on the paddock and discovered that we now have a hare to help keep the greenery under control. He stayed for some time having his breakfast while the blackbirds kept him company.
Hope he doesn’t come back for the lettuces & tomatoes when they finally sprout!

Coffee

Still a long way from Starbucks, but while in town today with time to kill, I decided to check out the local branch of Costa which is in one of the bookshops. Great to be able to order a medio Americano with an extra shot but not so great to find that it cost €3.50!

Christian Brothers

Much focus here this week on the report of a commission of enquiry into the abuse of children in institutional schools from 1940-1980 or so. Horrifying stories which make it very difficult to understand how the State and Church establishments could allow it to continue - and given the remarks of certain senior clergy this week - still not understand the magnitude of their liabilities.
However even more startling was an article which suggests that similar practices may still go on in some third world countries where the catholic church still has the sort of influence which it exercised in Ireland during the mid to late 20th century.
Was wondering about a couple of friends who attended CB schools during this period and what their thoughts are?

Grandfathers

It’s amazing what you come across. Wandering around an old bookshop in Ennis recently – following instructions to keep out of trouble while Linda did something important – I came across an old book about the Royal Irish Constabulary in which my Grandfather served before transferring to the newly formed Royal Ulster Constabulary in 1922. Slightly spooky to thumb through the index and find an entry about him and his service record. Had always known that he was a special person – aren’t all grandfathers? – but continue to be amazed about how much he did in his life having survived the First War trenches where he was awarded the Military Cross. He founded the RUC Athletics Association which is still very active today and was on both the British Board of Boxing Control and the British Olympic Committee after he retired.

The mother-in-law is coming!

I am very fortunate that my mother-in-law is an understanding person who spoils me rotten. However the occasion of her first visit – she arrives on Thursday – has caused a certain amount of commotion in the household! Not only is Linda busy ensuring that everything in the house is spotless, she has also prepared a list of instructions for the next 10 days, which spells out what is required for each meal and a programme of events for each day of the visit. I am sure it will all be fine….

Time is relative

While every event here has a start time, you have to learn to add the “ish” factor. We went to a book launch on Friday evening (8.00pm – don’t be late!) we arrived at 8.15 and were still there before the author. Most of the guests arrived at about 8.30 and the event actually started at 8.55. There have been many similar examples in the last few weeks – just have to adapt! Luckily the same attitude seemed to apply to closing time in the pub afterwards so not really a problem.

Star Performers

Along with about 12-1300 others, we were in St Peter & St Paul’s Cathedral in Ennis on Wednesday night for the Chieftains concert. They may have been doing this for 48 years but the performance was just as fresh and lively as it was when I first saw them many, many years ago. We had joined the queue (with our cushions) early and managed to get some seats near the front so we could see the stage clearly. As usual the Chieftains were accompanied by some very accomplished guest musicians – both foreign and local and for the finale they managed to include a pipe band complete with a full complement of drummers! Had to fall into James Moroney’s grocers shop on the way home for a Guinness or two and some more music. It’s very different from the LSO at the Barbican but …
On Saturday afternoon we were in town to catch some of the acts performing on the stage in O’Connell Square and I spent a happy time – in the warm sunshine – watching the ‘Hounds of Ulster’ who are a pipe and drum band (flutes and fifes) from Belfast. They gave a great show which was welcomed enthusiastically by the crowd which may be a great indication – despite the actions of a few murderous nutters – that Ireland really does want to put all the historic enmity division behind us.

Shopping at B+Q

Well, the plan was to nip up to Connemara for an evening with my cousin Sue and her husband John who have a B&B and sea-fishing business in Clifden and then stop in Galway on the way home for a bit of shopping and a visit to B&Q. Weather forecast wasn’t brilliant but thought we would be able to dodge the showers.
As it turned out we left the rain behind us in Clare on Monday afternoon and drove from Galway to Clifden in glorious sunshine. We had a great evening including more than a few glasses of wine and a lovely dinner cooked by Sue.
John then asked if we wanted to postpone our shopping and join them on his boat the next day with some friends for a trip to Inishshark – one of the abandoned islands off the coast next to Inishboffin. Clearly this was clearly a much better option than B&Q and we had a fabulous day – with blue skies and non-stop sunshine.
Inishshark was inhabited by up to 200 people until about 1960 when they left for a variety of reasons but primarily because they had exhausted the only energy source - peat - on the island!
Landed on the island by rubber dinghy and after exploring some of the abandoned houses, we walked to the west side of the island where there are spectacular cliffs. In addition to a couple of iron-age sites and burial cairns, we also saw Skuas and a pair of nesting Peregrine Falcons – who were not happy that we walked across their territory. Very few people ever land on the island these days so I guess they are not interrupted very often.
Landed back at Cleggan by about 6.00pm and drove home via Galway where we managed a quick supper of fish and chips from McDonagh’s – the best I have tasted in some time.
Can’t wait for the next time we go shopping at B&Q!

The Good Life

Not quite up to the standards of Tom and Barbara but have now managed to plant up a few herbs, courgettes, lettuces and tomatoes to provide some of our needs. Couldn’t resist buying a couple of heirloom varieties of tomato when I came across one called ‘Irish Old Sod’.
Keith – who farms about 20 acres to one side of us – has 6 sheep and about 8 lambs – there’s a pair of black lambs which we have an eye on – not sure when they will be ready for the pot but we’ve got our names down for one of them! He also has 7 cattle each with a calf but they are still in the byre waiting for the land to dry out a bit. He is the one who owns Molly and Lucy and told us this week that Lucy is in foal.

Air Rage

As we went for an evening walk on Friday evening, in one of those lovely sunny periods which arrive so unexpectedly in the midst of rain showers, we were disturbed by a large passenger jet circling fairly low overhead – we watched him fly over us at least 5 times. Speculating on what he was doing I joked that we would probably read about it in the local paper next week.
Didn’t have to wait that long – opened the national Sunday paper this morning and found the story on page 3 of a German charter flight en route from Frankfurt to the Dominican Republic that had to divert to Shannon – after circling for 30 mins to dump fuel – because of a “drunken incident” on board. The guilty passenger appeared in a special court sitting in Ennis on Friday night and was fined €100 before being released. Guess that ruined his holiday!

Gangsters

The national news here regularly features stories about armed gangs, their murderous feuds and raids on banks and cash in transit. Maybe these things happen on a similar scale at home but don’t rate a mention in the press – given that the thievery (are those really expense claims) carried out by Westminster MPs makes most organised crime look petty!
Was minded to consider this when I heard from my old friend Jimmy C. He claims to have been a civil servant for his working life but now spends most of his time on the Costa del Sol or in Thailand – makes you think??
Talking about MPs, I have been following the Telegraph’s reports of their expense scams this week – partly because it makes a change from local coverage of the fate of Brian Cowen and Fianna Faill in the upcoming local and European elections. I think that Jeff Randall has it down to a tee in his comment on Friday describing old Gorbals Mick as the “chief of staff of the ‘fill yer boots faction’ inside Westminster”. Can you imagine this going on while Betty Boothroyd was Speaker? Still Mick is part of Flash Gordon’s support pack and probably safe in his lucrative position and the lifetime pension and other benefits that go with it.

Fleadh Nua

Next week Ennis hosts the Fleadh Nua which is one of the biggest national festivals of traditional music, song and dance. For 8 days there will be ceili, music, set dancing, workshops, street entertaining, traditional singing, storytelling and much much more – probably a pint or two of the black stuff to wash it all down as well.
One of the highlights will be a concert by the Chieftains – held in the Cathedral as the only venue big enough – and we have tickets 996 and 997. Luckily we read the Clare Champion today and the advice to bring your own cushion with you as the pews were not designed for comfortable sitting.
May have to forgo the charms of the country to spend a few days - and nights - in the big city next week!

Tourists ???

Most of the local businesses are very grateful for and accommodating of the small number of tourists who are around the place at this time of year. Most are of the elder variety and a large proportion are Americans – which provides some amusing people watching. When we were in Linnane’s pub in Kilfenora last week, we listened to an American lady quizzing the landlord about a location which she vaguely remembered from her last trip. Having been told that he had “.. lived in the area all his life and had no idea what she was talking about” she then approached the other foreigners in the place – including us – to see if we could help.

This week we were in Logue’s Lodge in Ballyvaughan – Guinness and a burger to keep body and soul together before a walk – when we met Timmy O’Brien – “from Kansas City – where the Chiefs come from”. Apparently Logues was previously “O’Brien’s” and he was trying to track down any possible relatives. He introduced himself to everyone who came into the bar – including all the staff – but didn’t come across a single other O’Brien or anyone admitting to being one!

Washing the car

It is nearly 8 years since Linda got the MGF and on Tuesday she washed it herself for the first time! She clearly needs a little practice as I had to go over it with a damp chamois after she was finished. Unfortunately it only stays clean whilst sitting outside the house because as soon as we start down the lane from the house to the road it is mucky again within minutes.

What a difference a day makes

By Sunday morning all thoughts of the gales had passed as we woke to a beautiful sunny morning. Wind had dropped and the sun stayed with us all day. Went on a walk organised by Burren Life in the afternoon which focussed on some of the ancient tombs in the area dating back as far as 4,000 years ago which took us to some new places that we will definitely go back to.

Cycling together for about 12 miles on Monday morning - still warm and sunny - and then home to find Eugene the landlord sorting out the path to the cottage and the drainage for the water which runs off the hill above us. Not sure if it will have any long term effect but looked better for a few days anyway.

Tuesday was another sunny day – temperature up to 18C by afternoon. Spurred on by the start of the Irish Open this week we dug out a couple of clubs and headed off to our local pitch and putt. It is set in a great location on the side of a hill which made for some challenging holes. Luckily there was no one else on the course to witness the fact that we will not be causing John Daly or Padraig Harrington to lose any sleep. I was only 30 over on the 18 holes!

Spring gales

We are only 30 mins from the atlantic coast with only one hill of any consequence in between. This means that south-westerly gales – this evening gusting to 110km/hr – frequently blow across the paddock and assault the kitchen doors. The forecasters keep promising fine weather but it seems there are still a few storms to blow through first.
Woke early this morning to clear blue skies and decided on a bit of exercise on my bike until I stepped outside and realised that I could hardly stand up straight let alone balance on the bike!

Walking on the Burren

A little different from our walk at Doolin last week, we walked to the top of Mullaghmore in the Burren National Park on Wednesday – only 5.5km and 207m high– but a challenging walk in wintry conditions – no t-shirt & shades today – three layers plus waterproofs, boots, walking poles, woolly hats and gloves.
Gale force winds blowing from the Atlantic helped us up the west side of the hill and luckily the rain stayed away. Fabulous views from the top over the rest of the park and the lakes along the road to Gort. However the best part has to be the flowers growing along the sides of the path.
Although it’s only early May, the burren flowers are all beginning to make an appearance and in addition to the spring gentian and early purple orchid, we also saw bloody cranesbill, cowslips, wild anemones, mountain avens, wild strawberries and mossy saxifrage. Amazing to see Arctic and alpine varieties growing at sea level along more temperate plants.
Linda has taken some great photos but our dial-up connection cannot cope with the upload so will have to find another way to get these on the blog.

Going to Town

We had to drive into Ennis on Tuesday to deal with some of the more mundane chores of life. Finally managed to drop into the wine merchants and a helpful chat with the proprietor – a young American from Detroit. It appears that the tax and other costs imposed on wine imports to Ireland add up to about €3.30 on every bottle. Adding this to the limited demand (compared to the UK) and subsequently higher purchase prices from the supplier means that you are unlikely to buy any drinkable wine for much less than €10. This means that the more expensive the wine the closer the comparison with UK prices. I was convinced anyway and bought a selection of his wares to taste over the next week so that we can finally stock up the cellar!
Also had to make time for a visit to that staple of Irish shopping – the hardware store – there seems to be one in every town - more like Aladdin’s cave than B&Q! You can always fine that essential thing you didn’t know you needed – and always at the keenest prices. Our purchases so far have ranged from baking tins to garden tools, peat briquettes to electric wire and even a feather duster. Like bookshops, they are hard to avoid – I am always tempted to poke around the shelves amongst the cornucopia of stock as I wander around.

Bank Holidays

Well, no difference there! After four days of clear skies and sunshine (albeit with a cool southwesterly breeze) the Bank Holiday dawned with grey skies and driving rain which stayed for the whole day. Not much chance of cycle to the pub for lunch today.

We had a busy weekend around the cottage but managed a couple of outings. On Saturday evening I rode into Corofin to watch the Munster/Leinster game – the way there is great – downhill almost the whole way and a 30mph plus hill - not so much fun on the way home – Munster lost the game, there was a headwind and the rain came on just as I started to climb the big hill.

Sunshine again on Sunday and we went on a Burren Trust organised walk which focussed on the butterflies of the Burren. There are apparently 30 species which are either native or migrate here but the cool weather meant that we didn’t see a single one. However a very interesting talk on the way round and a walk that we hadn’t done before.

Linda has planted her flower border and is now doing battle with the snails and slugs. Think the slugs won the first round but Linda has won the last couple since she started with the chemicals – there goes our organic farming reputation!

In response to a couple of comments to my last post have committed to visiting the bar/undertakers when I am in town to check it out. Will report back

The first day of Summer

Thursday was probably our warmest day yet. Blue skies from dawn till dusk – we took advantage of the sunshine and went on a walk along the cliffs south of Doolin – had to miss out part of the planned route because we were seduced by the weather and left the boots in the car. You have to remember that any walk here away from the road is likely to be wet! We still managed a very enjoyable 9 miles which ended in Gus O’Connors in Fisherstreet in Doolin for the obligatory pint of the black stuff.

Mayday proved sunny as well all day but a strong westerly breeze made it a bit cool. Tried another local farmers market but v limited selection – didn’t really fancy the fairy cakes! However had a result on the way home as we stopped in to one of the local pubs - Dillons in Inagh - which has just changed hands – very friendly and a reasonable menu. Definitely one to return to.

Dial-up internet is proving a challenge – can usually manage to finish a sudoku during an email session – waiting for pages to download.

Is it three weeks already?

We finally managed our first joint cycle ride – about 6 miles around the local roads – sure we will manage longer trips over the next few weeks. Have just learned about to the Tour de Burren in June (10k, 60k and 160k routes) - not sure which one to try yet but a definite incentive to start some serious training.

I will need to keep up the cycling and walking to counteract the Guinness and soda bread and Linda’s enthusiasm for baking scones which are hard to resist.

Think I am getting the hang of the peat stove – have managed substantially more heat than smoke over the last week!

Stopped at the supermarket on the way home today and amused by the sight of a neighbour parking his tractor in the car park while he nipped in for his groceries. Like the sign above a local shopfront which says “Nagles – Bar – Undertakers” there are constant reminders that life here is very different from EC2.

We have four 5ft 6in doorways in the cottage which are proving a bit of a challenge – remember to duck most of the time but not always. Made me wonder if they made the doorways small because the people were shorter or was it a design/materials issue and the people grew smaller over generations of bumping their heads?

The grass in the paddock is disappearing at a surprising rate – and generating plenty of fertilizer for the vegetable patch as well. Clearly will have to make it bigger to utilise the available material!

A century for Kilfenora, a fortnight for us

The Gala concert at Kilfenora was a great evening – three hours of almost non-stop music from a group of musicians who were all so good that they made it look effortless – not a sheet of music in sight and lots of unrehearsed sets. There were probably 250 people tapping their toes in time to the music in the community hall all having a good time celebrating an incredible local tradition – pity there was no room for dancing – that came later at the ceili at Vaughan’s Barn down the road.

Went back for some of the open air events on Sunday but the rain had set in and there wasn’t room in the hall for everybody – there was hardly room in the village for all the cars. We ended up home in front of the fire with the Sunday papers, a bottle of white wine and some freshly smoked salmon from the Burren Smokehouse in Lisdoonvarna.

Have had a generally dry week – although 14 hrs of non-stop rain over Thursday night left me with a little work to do clearing some of the drainage channels – luckily Friday and Saturday stayed dry so I could finish the work before the heavy rain arrived on Sunday. There are a variety of "indoor" jobs that have been awaiting a wet period and it looks like that’s what we will get for the coming week.

Linda has been demonstrating her – previously unseen – skills in the kitchen and produced some nettle soup and fresh scones on Saturday. Both excellent and hopefully to be repeated soon – we have enough nettles to feed the proverbial 5000! It may be that the cooking is just a displacement activity to avoid cycling on some of our local hills – despite the new bike and a new helmet this week there has only been one joint cycle ride so far. I have been trying out Oli's technique for getting up the hills - get into the lowest gear early and then just pedal away as you enjoy the view. It's not fast but it is effective.

It has also been two weeks with no broadband and only v limited TV – despite previous assurances we will have to settle for dialup internet access since the cost of a satellite installation (the only alternative) seems prohibitively expensive.

At least two pairs ofbarn swallows – definitely not house martins now – are getting settled into some old nests in the outbuildings. I spent nearly an hour yesterday leaning on a spade watching their aerial manoeuvres – breathtaking skills.

Questionable translations
Linda bought some rubber gloves which she thought would be perfect for me when she read the manufacturers warning that they were not suitable "...for use with medical, irritant, toxic or corrosive children." Could have been something I wrote myself!

Four-legged lawnmowers

Our first Burren walk took us to St Mac Duach’s Chapel under Eagle Rock and gave us a basic taste of the terrain and some of the flowers. In addition to some primulas and Spring Gentian we also saw our first wild orchid. Stopped at Cassidy’s for a Guinness on the way home and sat in the sun wondering what the workers were doing!

When we got home on Monday afternoon we found that Lucy (the horse) and Molly (the donkey) had finally arrived and were getting stuck into the long grass. After two days they now come over to say hello and are happy to eat apples from the hand – now need a bigger stock of apples!
Forgot to plug the Farmers Market in Ennis on Friday Morning. A limited selection of stalls but everything we bought was from the producers and great quality. They all seemed to be incomers – a couple of English, one American and an Austrian (or German) I think – but we are planning to go back again this week – the sausage lady had just slaughtered a couple of pigs and promised a greater selection of meat this week. Would definitely recommend it to anyone who is the area on a Friday.

Also bought our first garden tools for a long time and did more gardening in two days than I have done in the past 12 years - and that was only the flower borders - still have to start on the veg patch!

Is that a week already?

Didn't realise that the transit bolts had not been removed from the brand new washing machine, so when Linda used it for the first time, it did a very good impression of Michael Flatley dancing across the floor until it stopped itself by pulling out its own plug.

Our landlord has been good as his word and we now have the paddock fenced off ready for the horse and donkey to be installed to keep the grass under control. Haven’t been formally introduced yet!

Haven't really had a proper chance to say thanks to all of my friends and colleagues at Headway East London and at St Giles’ for their parting gifts. I am truly grateful for these and for the good wishes which came with them. Particularly fond of the oil painting from the members of Headway East London which was one of the luxuries that came with us – thanks to all of you again. You can all see this painting if you have a look at my profile where it replaced an old photo of Oli & I in Monte Carlo

Those of you who followed the Monte Carlo Blog will know that Oli and I made our way through France commenting on the local wine as we went. Unfortunately we have not yet found an Irish vineyard and as our friend Caitlin at Vinoteca – the best place to buy or drink wine around the Barbican – warned us before we left, wine in Ireland is substantially more expensive than in the UK. Even the wines on special offer in the supermarkets and off licences are between 50% and 80% more expensive. Even checked out the selection at Aldi this morning! Will have to persuade some of our visitors to come by car and stop at Majestic on the way!

We have found at least one class bottle shop which had Buckfast in the cooler alongside Mateus Rosé at €10.50 a bottle. Thankfully the Guinness is still good.

What a fabulous weekend. Saturday was cloudless blue skies and 17degC, working around the house and garden watching swallows –or are they house martins? – and the first butterflies. In the late afternoon we went for a walk around the block which turned into an 8k hike and then sat outside after dinner and tried to identify the stars – almost as successful as my bird skills. With no light pollution at all, I had forgotten what a spectacle it is. Linda had the star charts out – fortunately the sextant is locked up in London – so we managed to pick out some of the brighter ones.

Sunday started off grey but brightened up by lunchtime and after church (Linda came too!) we drove up to Kilfenora to pick up tickets for the Gala Centenary concert by the Kilfenora Ceili Band . There’s a whole weekend of events including 4 Ceili’s to mark this amazing anniversary. Great to know that someone has been touring longer than Status Quo!

A very warm welcome to Sunday service at St Columba’s, Ennis in a very grand building from about 1870 which was built as a garrison church in the "Decorated Victorian" style and bears testimony to the fact that "Anglicans were in previous generations more numerous than they are today". It was the last Anglican church to be built in Ireland before the Disestablishment of the Irish church and has a lovely Pipe organ from 1873 and a flamboyant organist – are they all like that? A note for my friends at St Giles’ Cripplegate – ask the newcomers to read the lesson as soon as they walk in the door!

On the small world note, one of the ladies in the choir had worked for Lazard Brothers at 21 Moorfields some years ago and attended services and concerts at St Giles’ Cripplegate.

Just off for our first walk on the Burren - not only do I have to identify wild birds and stars, now I have to sort out the wild orchids as well. Still it could be worse - I could be reading about the recession!

How many shoes???

Well, finished unpacking and discovered that in addition to her walking boots, wellies and slippers Linda needed to bring 18 pairs of shoes with her! She justifies this by saying that it's only three pairs per month!


Of course she will now need another pair so she can ride the new bike which we picked up on Wednesday. It hasn't been further than the lane yet but great plans for an inaugural ride this afternoon. Just need to iron out a few of the hills first!


Oil tank was replenished on Tuesday and we now have heating again - still trying with the peat stove and beginning to get the smoke under control. Now need a chainsaw to clear some of the fallen trees and lay in a supply of firewood. Hoping that one of the friendly neighbours will lend me some essential tools to clear some of the overgrowth on the estate.


We can hear birds singing around us all the time - except in the rain of course - but haven't been able to see too many of them. Put up a feeder to try to entice them into view so I can pore over the Bird Book and identify them all. Among some of the regulars we saw a Linnet yesterday but will have to work hard to catch up with my old pal Bernie who has taken some tremendous photos of the wildlife around his home in Devon.

Trying to keep up with life hereabouts in the two weekly local papers and having read about a great Farmer's Market which was not too far away, we rushed down there this morning (only 50 mins drive) to find five stalls with very limited selection and prices not dissimilar to Borough Market. Seems odd but still haven't been able to find a fish shop anywhere close. Just have to try harder.

Sun is shining again so think it is time to get the bikes out.

Our first few days

Calm and uneventful ferry crossing from Fishguard to Rosslare except for coachloads of Osprey's fans on their way to Thomond Park in Limerick to meet their destiny! As two of the newest residents of Munster it was great to see them thrash the Ospreys in the Heineken Cup. Managed to find one of our 10 local pubs showing the game and welcomed warmly by the landlord and the rest of the clientele.

The cottage is everything we expected and have been lucky with the weather - sunshine and showers every day - although the rain has verged on torrential some times. Unpacking completed (except for Linda's trunk of shoes!) and most things put away - only problem is remembering where we put things.

First black mark was running out of heating oil so a bit cool for 24 hours. Managed to get the peat stove going for warmth but obviously need some practice as also managed to fill the house with smoke.

Saw the landlord this morning - everything's grand! - and sorted out the maintenance of the pasture - a horse and a donkey will arrive later in the week and stay for the summer. Assume they will be as friendly as everyone else.

First bike ride this morning - 8 miles up and down some of the local hills - definitely won't need the gym membership - just need to sort out a bike for Linda so she can join me.

No broadband or telephone yet but joined the library so free internet access for an hour a day - perhaps we won't need broadband after all.

Had a long walk on Lahinch beach in the sunshine - watched the surfers and ate ice cream - why did we leave the City?

Pigs & Troughs

While wandering around my new neighbourhood on Wednesday morning, I bumped into a couple of local characters and had a chat about life in West Clare. Clearly the mini-budget on Tuesday was a major topic of conversation - luckily I had paid attention to the morning news!
It was a bit of an eye-opener to see that one of the first announcements by the Finance minister was a 10% cut in pay and pensions for all TD's (members of parliament).
The opinion in the Rambler's Rest was that they could have given up a bit more but at least it was a start and they appeared to be sharing in the hardship of their electors.
Compare this to the situation on this side of the Irish Sea and as Jeff Randall points out in today's Telegraph, not only are we paying for our MP's and Minister's second homes, bath plugs and dodgy videos, but also for their lavish pension pots which will see the contribution (from our taxes) increase from 27% to 32% of their base salaries!
Where does the "Court of public opinion" sit on this? Its ok for Flash Gordon, Harriet Harperson and everyone else to criticise Fred Goodwin's pension arrangements - which were clearly within the rules (even if morally indefensible) - but not a hint of a concession about the cost of their own pension arrangements for all those "hardworking families" they talk about so often.
It's definitely time for me to get out for a while. At least I will have a woodburning stove in which I can use the newspaper as kindling!!

Husband Creche

On Wednesday afternoon, stuck in a queue of traffic in Tipperary, I saw this sign in goldblock lettering on a dark green background on the wall of a pub.

"HUSBAND CRECHE"

Does your husband get in the way when you go shopping?

Why not leave him with us so you can enjoy yourself.

Skysports on big screen and other entertainments.

No charge - just pay his bar bill when you collect him!

All I have to do now is persuade Linda that she wants to shop in Tipperary!

Its only 909 miles there and back!

Well I'm glad that's behind me!!

A quick trip to Moyhill in a rented car with a load of household stuff and clothes. How much stuff do you need for 6 months? Luckily the car was a Vauxhall Zafira which would have done the Doctor proud. No matter how much I packed in there was always room for more! It was only 62 hours but full of events and stories - more on some of these later.

Left London on Monday evening as Tamil protesters were laying down on Westminster Bridge and creating the sort of traffic chaos that local government road planners can only dream of!

Then almost punched a hole in the radio listening to PM on Radio 4 and a story about Claire Balding upsetting that down-trodden minority with decaying teeth because she made a joke about Liam Treadwell's teeth after he won the Grand National. In the midst of financial meltdown, traffic pandemonium and at least another year of a leader who was accurately described by Clarkson as a "one-eyed Scottish idiot", Eddie Mair decides it is appropriate to interview an orthodontist who appeared to be representing the human rights of all those people who don't brush or floss regularly. Roll on Clare FM and the morning bulletin of the death notices!

There is one serious drawback to the drive from London to Ireland - you have to go through South Wales. With apologies to at least 3 people who I probably won't see for 12 months, I saw it at its best - in the dark with rain teeming down. Fishguard is a decidely unwelcoming place even for a ferry port, while the Stena Europa had clearly seen better days when she was trading on the Baltic from Poland to Sweden (my old friend Ernst worked around there many years ago and used to tell tales of what the Polish girls would do for a pair of nylons!).

Arrived in Rosslare in glorious sunshine - only 4 hours to Moyhill. Signed the lease, collected the keys and started unpacking.

Where do I begin?

From our flat in the Barbican, I can be in 8 different branches of Starbucks within 10 minutes walk. From our new home in Co. Clare I will have to drive about 100 miles to Cork to get a Starbucks fix, yet it is only 60 miles to Tipperary!

This is only one of the changes that our new life will bring as we finish packing up ready to load the car and head for Corofin and the cottage which we have leased for the next 6-12 months. Our nearest shop will be 3 1/2 miles away - fortunately sandwiched between two Pubs so I can probably have a pint when I pick up my paper in the morning - but will I still want to read the paper every day?

The last few weeks have been busy as we try to clear the flat ready for new tenants - who are still to be found - and sort out household stuff, clothes, books etc ready for the move. For example, copying 250 CD's onto my laptop and then to a new IPOD was just one of the mundane chores which have kept me busy in the early morning hours while trying to sort out new bank accounts and insurances and all the other loose ends that life seems to require.

I've finished all my work with the Barbican and with Headway East London and have only a couple of final tasks at St Giles' - not least of which is avoiding the donkeys at the Palm Sunday service tomorrow morning.

It was an eventful week in the City, the G20 protesters on Wednesday and Thursday seemed generally good natured and often outnumbered by the police or the press. Even when I wandered over to see what was happening outside the Bank of England at lunchtime on Wednesday it was all very calm - almost like a summer rock festival. The only irritation was the Police helicopter which was buzzing around above our heads all day - dont expect to hear much of that in Co Clare!

How much stuff do you need for a year away from home? Clearly more than you can take on a Ryanair flight but how much is too much? As you can imagine this has been the subject of considerable debate over the last month or so and I have had to concede that we can't get it all into the MG. So I am leaving on Monday afternoon with a hired car which will probably be stuffed to bursting point to drive to Fishguard for the Rosslare ferry and then coming back on Thursday to collect Linda after she finishes work. At this point a huge thanks to her boss for allowing her a leave of absence for 12 months! She had her leaving drink & dinner on Wednesday evening and was able to walk home unaided - how things change!!!

Who knows what life in Clare will bring - at the moment I have got as far as cycling, Guinness, soda bread, golf (maybe) and traditional music. Our first visitor who has already booked his flights is a keen fisherman so I will have to give that a go when he is here. Fresh trout for supper anyone?