Wednesday 27 May 2009

Managing livestock

Clearly now an expert in dealing with livestock, I can manage Lucy and Molly without problems. Not sure how I will cope with the cow and new calf which are due on the paddock this week to eat the greenery which the others won’t touch. However had a chance to try out my cowboy skills yesterday when Linda and I were cycling to the pub for lunch and came upon a neighbour on foot trying to corral three mares which had got loose. Donning my Stetson (always to hand in case of just such an incident) I spurred my trusty steed into action and chased said mares along the road for about a mile until I could get past them, stop them and drive them back to their grateful owner – and not a lasso in sight. Felt like I had earned my pint when we finally got to the pub!
Talking of wildlife, I was sitting with my early morning cuppa yesterday when I noticed movement on the paddock and discovered that we now have a hare to help keep the greenery under control. He stayed for some time having his breakfast while the blackbirds kept him company.
Hope he doesn’t come back for the lettuces & tomatoes when they finally sprout!

Coffee

Still a long way from Starbucks, but while in town today with time to kill, I decided to check out the local branch of Costa which is in one of the bookshops. Great to be able to order a medio Americano with an extra shot but not so great to find that it cost €3.50!

Sunday 24 May 2009

Christian Brothers

Much focus here this week on the report of a commission of enquiry into the abuse of children in institutional schools from 1940-1980 or so. Horrifying stories which make it very difficult to understand how the State and Church establishments could allow it to continue - and given the remarks of certain senior clergy this week - still not understand the magnitude of their liabilities.
However even more startling was an article which suggests that similar practices may still go on in some third world countries where the catholic church still has the sort of influence which it exercised in Ireland during the mid to late 20th century.
Was wondering about a couple of friends who attended CB schools during this period and what their thoughts are?

Grandfathers

It’s amazing what you come across. Wandering around an old bookshop in Ennis recently – following instructions to keep out of trouble while Linda did something important – I came across an old book about the Royal Irish Constabulary in which my Grandfather served before transferring to the newly formed Royal Ulster Constabulary in 1922. Slightly spooky to thumb through the index and find an entry about him and his service record. Had always known that he was a special person – aren’t all grandfathers? – but continue to be amazed about how much he did in his life having survived the First War trenches where he was awarded the Military Cross. He founded the RUC Athletics Association which is still very active today and was on both the British Board of Boxing Control and the British Olympic Committee after he retired.

The mother-in-law is coming!

I am very fortunate that my mother-in-law is an understanding person who spoils me rotten. However the occasion of her first visit – she arrives on Thursday – has caused a certain amount of commotion in the household! Not only is Linda busy ensuring that everything in the house is spotless, she has also prepared a list of instructions for the next 10 days, which spells out what is required for each meal and a programme of events for each day of the visit. I am sure it will all be fine….

Time is relative

While every event here has a start time, you have to learn to add the “ish” factor. We went to a book launch on Friday evening (8.00pm – don’t be late!) we arrived at 8.15 and were still there before the author. Most of the guests arrived at about 8.30 and the event actually started at 8.55. There have been many similar examples in the last few weeks – just have to adapt! Luckily the same attitude seemed to apply to closing time in the pub afterwards so not really a problem.

Star Performers

Along with about 12-1300 others, we were in St Peter & St Paul’s Cathedral in Ennis on Wednesday night for the Chieftains concert. They may have been doing this for 48 years but the performance was just as fresh and lively as it was when I first saw them many, many years ago. We had joined the queue (with our cushions) early and managed to get some seats near the front so we could see the stage clearly. As usual the Chieftains were accompanied by some very accomplished guest musicians – both foreign and local and for the finale they managed to include a pipe band complete with a full complement of drummers! Had to fall into James Moroney’s grocers shop on the way home for a Guinness or two and some more music. It’s very different from the LSO at the Barbican but …
On Saturday afternoon we were in town to catch some of the acts performing on the stage in O’Connell Square and I spent a happy time – in the warm sunshine – watching the ‘Hounds of Ulster’ who are a pipe and drum band (flutes and fifes) from Belfast. They gave a great show which was welcomed enthusiastically by the crowd which may be a great indication – despite the actions of a few murderous nutters – that Ireland really does want to put all the historic enmity division behind us.

Shopping at B+Q

Well, the plan was to nip up to Connemara for an evening with my cousin Sue and her husband John who have a B&B and sea-fishing business in Clifden and then stop in Galway on the way home for a bit of shopping and a visit to B&Q. Weather forecast wasn’t brilliant but thought we would be able to dodge the showers.
As it turned out we left the rain behind us in Clare on Monday afternoon and drove from Galway to Clifden in glorious sunshine. We had a great evening including more than a few glasses of wine and a lovely dinner cooked by Sue.
John then asked if we wanted to postpone our shopping and join them on his boat the next day with some friends for a trip to Inishshark – one of the abandoned islands off the coast next to Inishboffin. Clearly this was clearly a much better option than B&Q and we had a fabulous day – with blue skies and non-stop sunshine.
Inishshark was inhabited by up to 200 people until about 1960 when they left for a variety of reasons but primarily because they had exhausted the only energy source - peat - on the island!
Landed on the island by rubber dinghy and after exploring some of the abandoned houses, we walked to the west side of the island where there are spectacular cliffs. In addition to a couple of iron-age sites and burial cairns, we also saw Skuas and a pair of nesting Peregrine Falcons – who were not happy that we walked across their territory. Very few people ever land on the island these days so I guess they are not interrupted very often.
Landed back at Cleggan by about 6.00pm and drove home via Galway where we managed a quick supper of fish and chips from McDonagh’s – the best I have tasted in some time.
Can’t wait for the next time we go shopping at B&Q!

Sunday 17 May 2009

The Good Life

Not quite up to the standards of Tom and Barbara but have now managed to plant up a few herbs, courgettes, lettuces and tomatoes to provide some of our needs. Couldn’t resist buying a couple of heirloom varieties of tomato when I came across one called ‘Irish Old Sod’.
Keith – who farms about 20 acres to one side of us – has 6 sheep and about 8 lambs – there’s a pair of black lambs which we have an eye on – not sure when they will be ready for the pot but we’ve got our names down for one of them! He also has 7 cattle each with a calf but they are still in the byre waiting for the land to dry out a bit. He is the one who owns Molly and Lucy and told us this week that Lucy is in foal.

Air Rage

As we went for an evening walk on Friday evening, in one of those lovely sunny periods which arrive so unexpectedly in the midst of rain showers, we were disturbed by a large passenger jet circling fairly low overhead – we watched him fly over us at least 5 times. Speculating on what he was doing I joked that we would probably read about it in the local paper next week.
Didn’t have to wait that long – opened the national Sunday paper this morning and found the story on page 3 of a German charter flight en route from Frankfurt to the Dominican Republic that had to divert to Shannon – after circling for 30 mins to dump fuel – because of a “drunken incident” on board. The guilty passenger appeared in a special court sitting in Ennis on Friday night and was fined €100 before being released. Guess that ruined his holiday!

Gangsters

The national news here regularly features stories about armed gangs, their murderous feuds and raids on banks and cash in transit. Maybe these things happen on a similar scale at home but don’t rate a mention in the press – given that the thievery (are those really expense claims) carried out by Westminster MPs makes most organised crime look petty!
Was minded to consider this when I heard from my old friend Jimmy C. He claims to have been a civil servant for his working life but now spends most of his time on the Costa del Sol or in Thailand – makes you think??
Talking about MPs, I have been following the Telegraph’s reports of their expense scams this week – partly because it makes a change from local coverage of the fate of Brian Cowen and Fianna Faill in the upcoming local and European elections. I think that Jeff Randall has it down to a tee in his comment on Friday describing old Gorbals Mick as the “chief of staff of the ‘fill yer boots faction’ inside Westminster”. Can you imagine this going on while Betty Boothroyd was Speaker? Still Mick is part of Flash Gordon’s support pack and probably safe in his lucrative position and the lifetime pension and other benefits that go with it.

Thursday 14 May 2009

Fleadh Nua

Next week Ennis hosts the Fleadh Nua which is one of the biggest national festivals of traditional music, song and dance. For 8 days there will be ceili, music, set dancing, workshops, street entertaining, traditional singing, storytelling and much much more – probably a pint or two of the black stuff to wash it all down as well.
One of the highlights will be a concert by the Chieftains – held in the Cathedral as the only venue big enough – and we have tickets 996 and 997. Luckily we read the Clare Champion today and the advice to bring your own cushion with you as the pews were not designed for comfortable sitting.
May have to forgo the charms of the country to spend a few days - and nights - in the big city next week!

Tourists ???

Most of the local businesses are very grateful for and accommodating of the small number of tourists who are around the place at this time of year. Most are of the elder variety and a large proportion are Americans – which provides some amusing people watching. When we were in Linnane’s pub in Kilfenora last week, we listened to an American lady quizzing the landlord about a location which she vaguely remembered from her last trip. Having been told that he had “.. lived in the area all his life and had no idea what she was talking about” she then approached the other foreigners in the place – including us – to see if we could help.

This week we were in Logue’s Lodge in Ballyvaughan – Guinness and a burger to keep body and soul together before a walk – when we met Timmy O’Brien – “from Kansas City – where the Chiefs come from”. Apparently Logues was previously “O’Brien’s” and he was trying to track down any possible relatives. He introduced himself to everyone who came into the bar – including all the staff – but didn’t come across a single other O’Brien or anyone admitting to being one!

Washing the car

It is nearly 8 years since Linda got the MGF and on Tuesday she washed it herself for the first time! She clearly needs a little practice as I had to go over it with a damp chamois after she was finished. Unfortunately it only stays clean whilst sitting outside the house because as soon as we start down the lane from the house to the road it is mucky again within minutes.

What a difference a day makes

By Sunday morning all thoughts of the gales had passed as we woke to a beautiful sunny morning. Wind had dropped and the sun stayed with us all day. Went on a walk organised by Burren Life in the afternoon which focussed on some of the ancient tombs in the area dating back as far as 4,000 years ago which took us to some new places that we will definitely go back to.

Cycling together for about 12 miles on Monday morning - still warm and sunny - and then home to find Eugene the landlord sorting out the path to the cottage and the drainage for the water which runs off the hill above us. Not sure if it will have any long term effect but looked better for a few days anyway.

Tuesday was another sunny day – temperature up to 18C by afternoon. Spurred on by the start of the Irish Open this week we dug out a couple of clubs and headed off to our local pitch and putt. It is set in a great location on the side of a hill which made for some challenging holes. Luckily there was no one else on the course to witness the fact that we will not be causing John Daly or Padraig Harrington to lose any sleep. I was only 30 over on the 18 holes!

Thursday 7 May 2009

Spring gales

We are only 30 mins from the atlantic coast with only one hill of any consequence in between. This means that south-westerly gales – this evening gusting to 110km/hr – frequently blow across the paddock and assault the kitchen doors. The forecasters keep promising fine weather but it seems there are still a few storms to blow through first.
Woke early this morning to clear blue skies and decided on a bit of exercise on my bike until I stepped outside and realised that I could hardly stand up straight let alone balance on the bike!

Walking on the Burren

A little different from our walk at Doolin last week, we walked to the top of Mullaghmore in the Burren National Park on Wednesday – only 5.5km and 207m high– but a challenging walk in wintry conditions – no t-shirt & shades today – three layers plus waterproofs, boots, walking poles, woolly hats and gloves.
Gale force winds blowing from the Atlantic helped us up the west side of the hill and luckily the rain stayed away. Fabulous views from the top over the rest of the park and the lakes along the road to Gort. However the best part has to be the flowers growing along the sides of the path.
Although it’s only early May, the burren flowers are all beginning to make an appearance and in addition to the spring gentian and early purple orchid, we also saw bloody cranesbill, cowslips, wild anemones, mountain avens, wild strawberries and mossy saxifrage. Amazing to see Arctic and alpine varieties growing at sea level along more temperate plants.
Linda has taken some great photos but our dial-up connection cannot cope with the upload so will have to find another way to get these on the blog.

Going to Town

We had to drive into Ennis on Tuesday to deal with some of the more mundane chores of life. Finally managed to drop into the wine merchants and a helpful chat with the proprietor – a young American from Detroit. It appears that the tax and other costs imposed on wine imports to Ireland add up to about €3.30 on every bottle. Adding this to the limited demand (compared to the UK) and subsequently higher purchase prices from the supplier means that you are unlikely to buy any drinkable wine for much less than €10. This means that the more expensive the wine the closer the comparison with UK prices. I was convinced anyway and bought a selection of his wares to taste over the next week so that we can finally stock up the cellar!
Also had to make time for a visit to that staple of Irish shopping – the hardware store – there seems to be one in every town - more like Aladdin’s cave than B&Q! You can always fine that essential thing you didn’t know you needed – and always at the keenest prices. Our purchases so far have ranged from baking tins to garden tools, peat briquettes to electric wire and even a feather duster. Like bookshops, they are hard to avoid – I am always tempted to poke around the shelves amongst the cornucopia of stock as I wander around.

Tuesday 5 May 2009

Bank Holidays

Well, no difference there! After four days of clear skies and sunshine (albeit with a cool southwesterly breeze) the Bank Holiday dawned with grey skies and driving rain which stayed for the whole day. Not much chance of cycle to the pub for lunch today.

We had a busy weekend around the cottage but managed a couple of outings. On Saturday evening I rode into Corofin to watch the Munster/Leinster game – the way there is great – downhill almost the whole way and a 30mph plus hill - not so much fun on the way home – Munster lost the game, there was a headwind and the rain came on just as I started to climb the big hill.

Sunshine again on Sunday and we went on a Burren Trust organised walk which focussed on the butterflies of the Burren. There are apparently 30 species which are either native or migrate here but the cool weather meant that we didn’t see a single one. However a very interesting talk on the way round and a walk that we hadn’t done before.

Linda has planted her flower border and is now doing battle with the snails and slugs. Think the slugs won the first round but Linda has won the last couple since she started with the chemicals – there goes our organic farming reputation!

In response to a couple of comments to my last post have committed to visiting the bar/undertakers when I am in town to check it out. Will report back

Saturday 2 May 2009

The first day of Summer

Thursday was probably our warmest day yet. Blue skies from dawn till dusk – we took advantage of the sunshine and went on a walk along the cliffs south of Doolin – had to miss out part of the planned route because we were seduced by the weather and left the boots in the car. You have to remember that any walk here away from the road is likely to be wet! We still managed a very enjoyable 9 miles which ended in Gus O’Connors in Fisherstreet in Doolin for the obligatory pint of the black stuff.

Mayday proved sunny as well all day but a strong westerly breeze made it a bit cool. Tried another local farmers market but v limited selection – didn’t really fancy the fairy cakes! However had a result on the way home as we stopped in to one of the local pubs - Dillons in Inagh - which has just changed hands – very friendly and a reasonable menu. Definitely one to return to.

Dial-up internet is proving a challenge – can usually manage to finish a sudoku during an email session – waiting for pages to download.

Is it three weeks already?

We finally managed our first joint cycle ride – about 6 miles around the local roads – sure we will manage longer trips over the next few weeks. Have just learned about to the Tour de Burren in June (10k, 60k and 160k routes) - not sure which one to try yet but a definite incentive to start some serious training.

I will need to keep up the cycling and walking to counteract the Guinness and soda bread and Linda’s enthusiasm for baking scones which are hard to resist.

Think I am getting the hang of the peat stove – have managed substantially more heat than smoke over the last week!

Stopped at the supermarket on the way home today and amused by the sight of a neighbour parking his tractor in the car park while he nipped in for his groceries. Like the sign above a local shopfront which says “Nagles – Bar – Undertakers” there are constant reminders that life here is very different from EC2.

We have four 5ft 6in doorways in the cottage which are proving a bit of a challenge – remember to duck most of the time but not always. Made me wonder if they made the doorways small because the people were shorter or was it a design/materials issue and the people grew smaller over generations of bumping their heads?

The grass in the paddock is disappearing at a surprising rate – and generating plenty of fertilizer for the vegetable patch as well. Clearly will have to make it bigger to utilise the available material!