Left Campeche on Friday 26th heading for Xpujil and a night at Hotel Calakmul. It`s a long drive across the peninsula and we had included the stop to break the journey as we didn`t know what the roads would be like. However all the roads in the Yucatan have proved to be good. They are generally straight, flat and well surfaced, with little traffic, the only hindrance are the speed bumps or topes which you find at the entrance to every town and village. There are quite a few double semi-trailers on the road, all over 35m long and often travelling at 100kph or more - I spent a good hour of the journey trying to stay ahead of a guy towing a pair of lpg containers and it was only the topes which kept him behind me! As a result we made it to Xpujil in time for lunch and decided to carry on to Bacalar.
The hotel Laguna at Bacalar is a 70's fantasy in concrete which sits on the banks of the lake with incredible views to the south over the lake - there really are 7 shades of blue - and the wetlands beyond. Although the building is a little worn, the location and views made up for everything else - we were swimming in the lake within 20 mins of arriving! Decided to check out Friday night in Bacalar itself and finished our meal just before they turned off the lights and rolled up the pavements.
Up early to watch the sunrise - the hotel rooftop bar allowed a clear view of eastern and western horizons - and then a swim in the lake before breakfast. The breeze was a bit strong for kayaking so we planned a day of sightseeing which lasted until lunchtime when we headed back to the poolbar to seek refreshment. The Mexican schools had just closed for two weeks for Easter, so we watched the arrival of three or four groups of holidaymakers - like our Canadian friends, the Mexicans appear to travel in packs - usually not less than 6 adults and 10 children at a time! With the pool now full of screaming wains, we headed for the lakeside which was marginally quieter. Dinner at the hotel was quite lively and thankfully the kids were dragged out of the pool before bedtime - I hadn`t quite reached Jimmy C mode but it was close.
In the morning we were joined for breakfast by two other refugees from the large family groups - an Aussie couple from Adelaide who are travelling from pole to pole on a pair of BMW touring bikes. They had started from the south of Argentine in November and hoped to reach Northern Alaska before the end of summer - in Linda´s opinion "the first interesting travellers we have met on the trip" (excluding canadian friends and family of course). As they rode off towards Campeche, we headed north to Tulum.
Tuesday 30 March 2010
Thursday 25 March 2010
Mayan History and Architecture
Our decision to postpone our visit to Chichen Itza on Sunday proved to be the right one. Read the local paper on Monday and there were more than 16,000 people there for the equinox who could see nothing because of the mist and rain. We went on Tuesday morning - got there for 0900 and beat the coachloads of tourists who were streaming through the turnstiles buy the time we left at 1300.
A truly amazing place, in both scale, stonework and astronomical alignments. Must have skipped the Mayans in history class - or perhaps have forgotten what I learned - but having visited both Chichen Itza and Uxmal, I am now reading about their history and demise under the conquistadores.
Stopped at Uxmal - much more visitor friendly than Chichen Itza - en route from Merida to Campeche where it is currently around 35C at midday. Luckily the hotel has a pool and a friendly waiter who brings cold beer at regular intervals. This is my first and only non-driving day of the week so thought I should take advantage.
Heading for Xpujil and more Mayan ruins tomorrow and then on to Lake Bacalar.
Have realised that we have only a week left in Mexico and have had to face up to some of the preparations for our return to London and Ireland - guess the real world had to intevene sometime!
A truly amazing place, in both scale, stonework and astronomical alignments. Must have skipped the Mayans in history class - or perhaps have forgotten what I learned - but having visited both Chichen Itza and Uxmal, I am now reading about their history and demise under the conquistadores.
Stopped at Uxmal - much more visitor friendly than Chichen Itza - en route from Merida to Campeche where it is currently around 35C at midday. Luckily the hotel has a pool and a friendly waiter who brings cold beer at regular intervals. This is my first and only non-driving day of the week so thought I should take advantage.
Heading for Xpujil and more Mayan ruins tomorrow and then on to Lake Bacalar.
Have realised that we have only a week left in Mexico and have had to face up to some of the preparations for our return to London and Ireland - guess the real world had to intevene sometime!
Wednesday 24 March 2010
Sunday in Merida
Arrived in town too early to check in to our hotel, so we dumped the car and headed for the main square and found ourselves in the middle of regular sunday festival. The roads were closed to traffic, there was dancing and singing in the street, hundreds of stalls selling clothes, souvenirs and food and most of the population out for the afternoon. Very lively and safe, despite the constant attention of the indian women selling shawls etc.
Still trying to choose my favourite local beer - which has, of course, required considerable research. Think I have settled on Modelo Especial but will have to keep tasting.
A bit of a mixup over the hotel booking - despite 10 or 11 email confirmations. It was a very small place and they had decided to take Sunday off- we probably bumped into them in the square without realising - they had arranged for someone to meet us to let us in but we missed each other. Took a bit of time wandering the streets until we found a new place - an old Mission - named for a famous priest who spent his life baptising those indians who were willing and burning those who weren't! Slightly disconcerted by the floodlit freestanding cross in a wall niche beside the bed until we found the light switch.
Spent Monday on the Lagoon at Celestun. This is a huge saltwater lake on the Gulf of Mexico which is home to thousands of Flamingos which breed here between March and April. We took a two hour boat trip to see the Flamingos, the mangrove swamps and the freshwater springs - I had a swim in one of these until we noticed the crocodile around the corner.
We shared the boat with a Mexican couple which led to my longest Spanish conversation of the trip - not sure that we understood everything but I think I got away without saying anything too embarassing.
Thankfully - as a result of my exposure to our Canadian friends - I overtipped the boatman which meant that he and his mates were more than willing to give me a push start when I found the battery was flat - guess who left the lights on?
Still trying to choose my favourite local beer - which has, of course, required considerable research. Think I have settled on Modelo Especial but will have to keep tasting.
A bit of a mixup over the hotel booking - despite 10 or 11 email confirmations. It was a very small place and they had decided to take Sunday off- we probably bumped into them in the square without realising - they had arranged for someone to meet us to let us in but we missed each other. Took a bit of time wandering the streets until we found a new place - an old Mission - named for a famous priest who spent his life baptising those indians who were willing and burning those who weren't! Slightly disconcerted by the floodlit freestanding cross in a wall niche beside the bed until we found the light switch.
Spent Monday on the Lagoon at Celestun. This is a huge saltwater lake on the Gulf of Mexico which is home to thousands of Flamingos which breed here between March and April. We took a two hour boat trip to see the Flamingos, the mangrove swamps and the freshwater springs - I had a swim in one of these until we noticed the crocodile around the corner.
We shared the boat with a Mexican couple which led to my longest Spanish conversation of the trip - not sure that we understood everything but I think I got away without saying anything too embarassing.
Thankfully - as a result of my exposure to our Canadian friends - I overtipped the boatman which meant that he and his mates were more than willing to give me a push start when I found the battery was flat - guess who left the lights on?
Monday 22 March 2010
On the road again
After another party night at the Ocean Coral to celebrate the last night of the holiday (for some) we managed a quiet morning on the beach to allow me to dry out before heading for the carhire desk at Cancun Airport to pick up our car and start the next leg of the journey.
Not having much luck with car hire on this trip - because I had specified manual gearbox we ended up with one of the oldest cars on the lot - not much demand for manual cars from their usual clientele. Have never seen a Nissan Tsuru before and hope not to see one again. Very simple old style Nissan but it drives reasonably well, the aircon works and we have already driven 500km. Rattled a bit a top speed on the toll road out of Cancun but I put that down to road surface!
The Cuota - toll road - is amazing - so expensive that no-one uses it. In 160km we saw 8 other cars - which all raced past us, and two trucks which we left behind us. Got to the toll and found it was $20 for the privilege. It was also completely soulless as there was tall vegetation on both sides and you couldnt even see the other carriageway. Still an effective way to cover the distance.
Our first night was in a lovely old hotel in Valladolid (recommended to us for the courtyard restaurant) where we had dinner and breakfast. Wonderful square in front of the Hotel and being Saturday night, everyone was out in their finery for a stroll around the square or a chat in the s-shaped chairs which they call "confidenciales". Our first experience of Mexico!
The plan for Sunday was a visit to Chichen Itza - the largest and reputedly greatest Mayan site - and then on to Merida for the evening festivities. Unfortunately it was raining as we left Valladolid and stayed that way until we reached Chichen Itza where the access roads were closed off by police because of the crowds expected for the Spring Equinox celebrations. Given my limited tolerance for crowds and queueing and the fact that I have already lost two umbrellas on this trip, we decided to continue to Merida and reschedule our visit.
Had to stop at the service station to check on a warning light which appeared on the dashboard and not really reassured by the hire company´s assurance that it was nothing important. Checked all the vital components and decided that we would continue since they were only prepared to replace it if we drove back to Cancun which would have been a 600km round trip.
Made it to Merida before lunch and found ourselves in the middle of their regular sunday celebrations in the main square.
Not having much luck with car hire on this trip - because I had specified manual gearbox we ended up with one of the oldest cars on the lot - not much demand for manual cars from their usual clientele. Have never seen a Nissan Tsuru before and hope not to see one again. Very simple old style Nissan but it drives reasonably well, the aircon works and we have already driven 500km. Rattled a bit a top speed on the toll road out of Cancun but I put that down to road surface!
The Cuota - toll road - is amazing - so expensive that no-one uses it. In 160km we saw 8 other cars - which all raced past us, and two trucks which we left behind us. Got to the toll and found it was $20 for the privilege. It was also completely soulless as there was tall vegetation on both sides and you couldnt even see the other carriageway. Still an effective way to cover the distance.
Our first night was in a lovely old hotel in Valladolid (recommended to us for the courtyard restaurant) where we had dinner and breakfast. Wonderful square in front of the Hotel and being Saturday night, everyone was out in their finery for a stroll around the square or a chat in the s-shaped chairs which they call "confidenciales". Our first experience of Mexico!
The plan for Sunday was a visit to Chichen Itza - the largest and reputedly greatest Mayan site - and then on to Merida for the evening festivities. Unfortunately it was raining as we left Valladolid and stayed that way until we reached Chichen Itza where the access roads were closed off by police because of the crowds expected for the Spring Equinox celebrations. Given my limited tolerance for crowds and queueing and the fact that I have already lost two umbrellas on this trip, we decided to continue to Merida and reschedule our visit.
Had to stop at the service station to check on a warning light which appeared on the dashboard and not really reassured by the hire company´s assurance that it was nothing important. Checked all the vital components and decided that we would continue since they were only prepared to replace it if we drove back to Cancun which would have been a 600km round trip.
Made it to Merida before lunch and found ourselves in the middle of their regular sunday celebrations in the main square.
Friday 19 March 2010
It’s a Different world!!
Friday evening sitting on the terrace of our room at the Ocean Coral at Puerto Morelos, on the fifth day of our first all-inclusive holiday anywhere – and it could be almost anywhere with a slight Latin American theme! Bars are open from 10.00am until 6.30am and there are at least 8 places to eat breakfast, lunch or dinner.
6.00am start each morning to put towels on the sun loungers and then a walk along the beach before breakfast. Then off to the beach for more sun, sand and non-stop bar service, before a break for lunch followed by more sun and sand. Then on to pub night in someone’s room followed by dinner, more drinking and either karaoke, dancing or just plain old carousing.
We have had a great time with Linda’s CC&CD, BMWD, CBC (Jim) and all his friends and families here. After 9 weeks of just the two of us, it has been great to have some different conversations and lots of partners to have a drink, or chat or play volleyball or go kayaking. However my liver is probably ready to revert to a more normal way of life.
Had a very lively St Patrick’s Day celebration which finished up with a beach disco, before which I managed to wade through the lobby fountains with a leprechaun on my shoulders!
Back to reality tomorrow when we pick up car and head for Valladolid and the Mayan ruins at Chichen Itza. Meanwhile our Canadian drinking buddies are on a 5.00pm flight home and are all back at work on Monday – tough for some!!! We still have two more weeks in Mexico.
6.00am start each morning to put towels on the sun loungers and then a walk along the beach before breakfast. Then off to the beach for more sun, sand and non-stop bar service, before a break for lunch followed by more sun and sand. Then on to pub night in someone’s room followed by dinner, more drinking and either karaoke, dancing or just plain old carousing.
We have had a great time with Linda’s CC&CD, BMWD, CBC (Jim) and all his friends and families here. After 9 weeks of just the two of us, it has been great to have some different conversations and lots of partners to have a drink, or chat or play volleyball or go kayaking. However my liver is probably ready to revert to a more normal way of life.
Had a very lively St Patrick’s Day celebration which finished up with a beach disco, before which I managed to wade through the lobby fountains with a leprechaun on my shoulders!
Back to reality tomorrow when we pick up car and head for Valladolid and the Mayan ruins at Chichen Itza. Meanwhile our Canadian drinking buddies are on a 5.00pm flight home and are all back at work on Monday – tough for some!!! We still have two more weeks in Mexico.
Friday 12 March 2010
Divided by a common language
For the last week or so, we have been surrounded by American tourists ranging from snowbirds, families and young couples to the hordes of college students on spring break. Despite having lived and worked around Americans for most of my life, it is still interesting to note those little differences - like the older gentleman who came and sat down with us as we were quietly playing cards - waiting for our shuttle pickup - and regaled us with the story of his life and his Welsh wife and then excused himself after 10 minutes and went off to talk to someone else!
On the journey down to Manuel Antonio, our fellow passengers started by introducing themselves, talked for the whole 4 hour journey and then insisted on swapping email addresses when they were dropped off. Probably more Jimmy C's type of people!
Linda's turn to get the stomach bug when we arrived but it was only 24 hours until she was back on the frozen margaritas and mango daiquiris!
Manuel Antonio has both National Park and long pacific beaches and our cottage is surrounded by forest while only 10 mins walk to the beach. We had a great hike in the park where we saw Howler and Capuchin monkeys, three toed sloths, agouti and a variety of birdlife - including a Fiery-billed Aracari and a Golden-naped Woodpecker. Then we got home and saw everything again from the comfort of the rocking chair on the terrace - we had a troupe of about 20 capuchins which passed by, feeding as they went and checking out the roof of the cottage as well. It is great to sit with a cup of coffee in the morning and watch the humming birds flitting around the Hibiscus and the Heliconia.
This is our last day on the beach before we head for San Jose tomorrow and our flight to Cancun - after 4 weeks of relaxing, not sure how I will cope with rushing around airports etc - however looking forward to the next leg of the trip. With the help of both old and new friends (thanks to Ali, Toby & Mo) we have devised a plan to see most of the main sights of Yucatan over 11 days - after 5 days with Linda's cousin and friends at Puerto Moreles.
On the journey down to Manuel Antonio, our fellow passengers started by introducing themselves, talked for the whole 4 hour journey and then insisted on swapping email addresses when they were dropped off. Probably more Jimmy C's type of people!
Linda's turn to get the stomach bug when we arrived but it was only 24 hours until she was back on the frozen margaritas and mango daiquiris!
Manuel Antonio has both National Park and long pacific beaches and our cottage is surrounded by forest while only 10 mins walk to the beach. We had a great hike in the park where we saw Howler and Capuchin monkeys, three toed sloths, agouti and a variety of birdlife - including a Fiery-billed Aracari and a Golden-naped Woodpecker. Then we got home and saw everything again from the comfort of the rocking chair on the terrace - we had a troupe of about 20 capuchins which passed by, feeding as they went and checking out the roof of the cottage as well. It is great to sit with a cup of coffee in the morning and watch the humming birds flitting around the Hibiscus and the Heliconia.
This is our last day on the beach before we head for San Jose tomorrow and our flight to Cancun - after 4 weeks of relaxing, not sure how I will cope with rushing around airports etc - however looking forward to the next leg of the trip. With the help of both old and new friends (thanks to Ali, Toby & Mo) we have devised a plan to see most of the main sights of Yucatan over 11 days - after 5 days with Linda's cousin and friends at Puerto Moreles.
Monday 8 March 2010
Driving in Costa Rica
With 4 days before we are due back on the Pacific coast at Manuel Antonio, we decided to hire a car to allow us to explore the Central Valley and to see one of the volcanoes - either Poas or Irazu. Booked a small 4x4 with Economy carhire in Liberia (one of the biggest local companies) but when we got there the only 4x4 they could offer us was a Nissan Frontier pickup with a crewcab - which they described as an upgrade. Linda was not impressed but since it was only for 3 days, I thought it would be OK. Unfortunately it drove like a tank and the 200km journey down the Interamericana was an interesting trip - even managed to get stopped by the Police - think I was a bit quick through a small town - but once they saw the gringo passport they just waved me on.
Found a great hotel - El Cafetal Inn - on a coffee plantation near Atenas - tremendous views and a great pool. Only 30 mins from the International airport so it would makes a great place to start or finish a trip to CR.
Drove to Poas on Saturday and managed to get to the craters in sunshine - great sight and a pleasant walk around the trails - unfortunately that was all I could manage because of some hot pickle I had eaten with my breakfast which disagreed with my stomach in a big way. Had to retire hurt to the bedroom leaving Linda on the sunlounger by the pool.
Better by the next morning and headed for the Waterfall gardens at La Paz - which meant driving almost to the top of Poas again before turning off straight into a wall of mist and low cloud and a road which was still under repair after a recent earthquake. Managed about 20km of part road / part dirt track only to find that the waterfall gardens were completely obscured in the mist which meant driving back the way we had come.
Found a couple of places to stop on the journey back to the hotel and had to settle for another afternoon by the pool!
Dropping off the truck in San Jose this afternoon and picking up a shuttle down to Manuel Antonio where we will spend the next 6 days in a self catering cottage on the beach next to the National Park.
Found a great hotel - El Cafetal Inn - on a coffee plantation near Atenas - tremendous views and a great pool. Only 30 mins from the International airport so it would makes a great place to start or finish a trip to CR.
Drove to Poas on Saturday and managed to get to the craters in sunshine - great sight and a pleasant walk around the trails - unfortunately that was all I could manage because of some hot pickle I had eaten with my breakfast which disagreed with my stomach in a big way. Had to retire hurt to the bedroom leaving Linda on the sunlounger by the pool.
Better by the next morning and headed for the Waterfall gardens at La Paz - which meant driving almost to the top of Poas again before turning off straight into a wall of mist and low cloud and a road which was still under repair after a recent earthquake. Managed about 20km of part road / part dirt track only to find that the waterfall gardens were completely obscured in the mist which meant driving back the way we had come.
Found a couple of places to stop on the journey back to the hotel and had to settle for another afternoon by the pool!
Dropping off the truck in San Jose this afternoon and picking up a shuttle down to Manuel Antonio where we will spend the next 6 days in a self catering cottage on the beach next to the National Park.
Friday 5 March 2010
Failed again
We managed to see most of the Rincon de la Vieja Volcano on our visit to the National Park - except the peak which was constantly wreathed in cloud, which also meant that we were not allowed to hike to the crater. Pity as this is classed as one of the best hikes in the country.
The alternative was a walk to the Cangreja waterfall which was tremendous - the swim in the pool was very refreshing and just a bit cooler than my last swim in the Pacific. We also walked around the park and saw the mudpots, fumaroles and mini volcanoes spouting sulphurous steam which killed the wildlife all around. We stayed at Rinconcito Lodge which is very remote and the first time on our trip that we felt we should have hired a car. Having said that, the roads up there are so bad that I was quite happy to pay the taximan his $30 for each trip.
We are currently in Liberia enjoying their Fiesta de Toros which has bullriding, cowboy parades, bands and dancing until the early hours and fireworks every morning at 5.00am - decided that one night was enough and heading south later today - determined to get to the top of one of these volcanoes.
Kept my promise and replaced Linda´s watch as soon as we got here - was very glad to see that it was still working when we got up this morning having spent nearly 5 pounds on it!
The alternative was a walk to the Cangreja waterfall which was tremendous - the swim in the pool was very refreshing and just a bit cooler than my last swim in the Pacific. We also walked around the park and saw the mudpots, fumaroles and mini volcanoes spouting sulphurous steam which killed the wildlife all around. We stayed at Rinconcito Lodge which is very remote and the first time on our trip that we felt we should have hired a car. Having said that, the roads up there are so bad that I was quite happy to pay the taximan his $30 for each trip.
We are currently in Liberia enjoying their Fiesta de Toros which has bullriding, cowboy parades, bands and dancing until the early hours and fireworks every morning at 5.00am - decided that one night was enough and heading south later today - determined to get to the top of one of these volcanoes.
Kept my promise and replaced Linda´s watch as soon as we got here - was very glad to see that it was still working when we got up this morning having spent nearly 5 pounds on it!
Monday 1 March 2010
Time to move on...
After a week on the beach at Samara, it´s time to move on - volcanoes, hiking and beef next.
This has to rank as one of the top ten beaches we have visited and definitely one to come back to. While we have had some great fish and seafood here I´m looking forward to some red meat when we get up to our next destination. The lodge is based around a working cattle farm and serve their own beef and dairy products in the restaurant.
Apparently just as hot there - highs of 35C and not much below 22C at night - so we will probably miss the sea and the pool, but hopefully we will get to hike to the crater of the volcano and even try the hot springs.
Must bring the netbook with me next time - everywhere offers free wireless access and relying on internet centres has introduced a whole new level of frustration!! I am sure Skype is a great way for people to stay in touch but I am not really interested in the mundane, petty and usually inane conversation which is always so loud that you can hear them across the road. Makes it hard to concentrate and destroys that inner peace that we all strive so hard to find!
This has to rank as one of the top ten beaches we have visited and definitely one to come back to. While we have had some great fish and seafood here I´m looking forward to some red meat when we get up to our next destination. The lodge is based around a working cattle farm and serve their own beef and dairy products in the restaurant.
Apparently just as hot there - highs of 35C and not much below 22C at night - so we will probably miss the sea and the pool, but hopefully we will get to hike to the crater of the volcano and even try the hot springs.
Must bring the netbook with me next time - everywhere offers free wireless access and relying on internet centres has introduced a whole new level of frustration!! I am sure Skype is a great way for people to stay in touch but I am not really interested in the mundane, petty and usually inane conversation which is always so loud that you can hear them across the road. Makes it hard to concentrate and destroys that inner peace that we all strive so hard to find!
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