Saturday 21 December 2019
Longest Day
18 hours of daylight here today although it will always be a dark day for the family - Alex passed away 11 years ago.
Day One
Friday 20 December 2019
Walking tours
Always a great way to explore a new city, we joined a couple of guided walks on our first two days. The first took us from Teatro Colon through Retiro and finished up at the Recoleta Cemetery. Our guide - Martin - probably best described as a left wing Peronist- shared his knowledge of the City and his views on the recent political and economic history as we walked through the streets - avoiding the traffic.
On day two we headed for La Boca and another guide - Luke - who was an American Phd student with an impressive grasp of Argentine and South American History. La Boca was crammed with visitors - felt like an August Saturday on Princes Street although substantially warmer.
Almost impossible to get a picture of any of the sights but Linda managed to find a quiet spot for a minute or two
The houses (Conventillos) which were built by the original immigrants were fascinating structures built of a timber frame with corrugated iron walls and roof but we didn't manage to get a picture until we visited the Benito Quinquela Martin Gallery and found a beautiful model of one of the buildings;
On day two we headed for La Boca and another guide - Luke - who was an American Phd student with an impressive grasp of Argentine and South American History. La Boca was crammed with visitors - felt like an August Saturday on Princes Street although substantially warmer.
Almost impossible to get a picture of any of the sights but Linda managed to find a quiet spot for a minute or two
The houses (Conventillos) which were built by the original immigrants were fascinating structures built of a timber frame with corrugated iron walls and roof but we didn't manage to get a picture until we visited the Benito Quinquela Martin Gallery and found a beautiful model of one of the buildings;
Thursday 19 December 2019
Celebrity Chefs
I was reminded recently - sadly on the news of Gary Rhodes death following an accident - of a Christmas meal that Chris Jackson and I had at Rhodes in the City - probably about 2001. An excellent Steak and Kidney pudding washed down with more than a couple of bottles of a very drinkable Ribera del Duero. However we were mildly disappointed to discover that 'Chef' was not in the kitchen that day 'due to other responsibilities'.
Had a similar disappointment this evening at Cafe San Juan when we were told as we sat down that unfortunately the local celebrity chef - Leandro Cristobal - was cooking at his other restaurant - Cantina San Juan. The food and the service were still excellent but none of the 'signature ' dishes were available. Given the trip that we are about to start, it seemed appropriate that their wine was served in jugs called 'pinguino'
I've had the good fortune - thanks mainly to clients with good taste and deep pockets - to meet a number of Chefs over the years and I understand that there will always be 'other responsibilities' which take them away from the kitchen but it doesn't detract from the disappointment. I remember Marco Pierre White explaining to us - over a glass or two - that he was no longer a chef but had become a restuarateur.
I've had the good fortune - thanks mainly to clients with good taste and deep pockets - to meet a number of Chefs over the years and I understand that there will always be 'other responsibilities' which take them away from the kitchen but it doesn't detract from the disappointment. I remember Marco Pierre White explaining to us - over a glass or two - that he was no longer a chef but had become a restuarateur.
Of course there was Tango
When we had lunch in Plaza Dorrego - which is home to the Feria on Sunday mornings - we were entertained by two or three pairs of dancers - in Clare there was always someone playing the fiddle, here it seems to be Tango. It really seems to be everywhere.
Since I'd need to have both legs transplanted to be able to start learning the dance, we settled for dinner and a Tango show at Cafe Los Angelitos. An impressive place with a mediocre meal, but the dancing was quite good and we enjoyed the music. However, over the years we have experienced a number of similar 'cultural' experiences and it seems that this might be a good time to stop.
Since I'd need to have both legs transplanted to be able to start learning the dance, we settled for dinner and a Tango show at Cafe Los Angelitos. An impressive place with a mediocre meal, but the dancing was quite good and we enjoyed the music. However, over the years we have experienced a number of similar 'cultural' experiences and it seems that this might be a good time to stop.
Fellow Visitors
Having unpacked and settled in to our room -and flooded the bathroom trying to shower - we headed out to get some lunch. As we wandered the streets we noticed quite a few people with direction signs and welcome messages and even more in large groups - all with the similar badges on different coloured ribbons. Assumed they were a tour group and thought little more of it - except that there appeared to be hordes of them wherever we went.
All became clear on our second morning. when we learned that the city is hosting a worldwide convention of Jehovah's Witnesses and that there are more than 45,000 delegates - so much so that they have hired the Boca Junior's La Bombonera stadium for the gathering - must need a huge supply of The Watch Tower.
I'm sure Jimmy C will regret not being here!
All became clear on our second morning. when we learned that the city is hosting a worldwide convention of Jehovah's Witnesses and that there are more than 45,000 delegates - so much so that they have hired the Boca Junior's La Bombonera stadium for the gathering - must need a huge supply of The Watch Tower.
I'm sure Jimmy C will regret not being here!
Travelling
While our British Airways flight to Buenos Aires was free of delays and any technical problems, the cabin service was extremely poor. They had reassigned our seats - and many others - so that they could close off one cabin and reduce the number of cabin crew. As a result, the remaining crew seemed unable to cope with providing their normal service - nothing close to the level of service on our recent Qatar flight sectors.
Linda found herself next to an expatriate Scot who had left Ibrox 40 years ago and worked in a winery in Mendoza. I think their conversation began with complaints about the cabin service but by the time we landed she had heard his life history.
Arriving 30 minutes ahead of schedule should have been a bonus but meant that we reached the immigration hall at the same time as all the other overnight european flights and spent 90 minutes queueing to get our passports stamped - at least the baggage was sitting on the carousel when we got through.
We're staying in San Telmo which is one of the older parts of the city in a boutique hotel where design appears to have won the battle with function. It all looks very smart but doesn't work as you might expect. Still, the staff are very friendly and helpful and it is in a great location.
Linda found herself next to an expatriate Scot who had left Ibrox 40 years ago and worked in a winery in Mendoza. I think their conversation began with complaints about the cabin service but by the time we landed she had heard his life history.
Arriving 30 minutes ahead of schedule should have been a bonus but meant that we reached the immigration hall at the same time as all the other overnight european flights and spent 90 minutes queueing to get our passports stamped - at least the baggage was sitting on the carousel when we got through.
We're staying in San Telmo which is one of the older parts of the city in a boutique hotel where design appears to have won the battle with function. It all looks very smart but doesn't work as you might expect. Still, the staff are very friendly and helpful and it is in a great location.
Sunday 15 December 2019
Post-Election Post!
While the battle of wills between BoJo and the wee sweetie wife may provide plenty of soundbites and press coverage, we've decided that we've heard enough during the election campaign. Did the decent thing and stayed around to vote but winter has arrived in Edinburgh and I'm sure the battle will continue for at least 4 or 5 years so we'll be able to catch up when we get back in January.
This year, in a change from our usual routine, we are setting out on an expedition to Antarctica where it will definitely be colder than Edinburgh. We're off to BA tomorrow - sunshine, lots of red meat and Malbec, and a bit of culture. Then at the end of the week we fly to Ushuaia and join an expedition ship for three weeks across the Southern Ocean. We're going to the Falklands, South Georgia, and South Shetland before crossing over to the Antarctic peninsula.
While Linda has settled on the hi-tec thermals and polar top layers, I've decided to follow the example of Scott and Shackleton - Oiled wool rollneck, sheepskin jacket and a large hip flash - I'm sure it'll be fine.
I'll definitely be writing the blog as we travel but I'm not sure how often there will be access to the WWW. The story may have to be published after the event but as usual........
Watch this space
This year, in a change from our usual routine, we are setting out on an expedition to Antarctica where it will definitely be colder than Edinburgh. We're off to BA tomorrow - sunshine, lots of red meat and Malbec, and a bit of culture. Then at the end of the week we fly to Ushuaia and join an expedition ship for three weeks across the Southern Ocean. We're going to the Falklands, South Georgia, and South Shetland before crossing over to the Antarctic peninsula.
While Linda has settled on the hi-tec thermals and polar top layers, I've decided to follow the example of Scott and Shackleton - Oiled wool rollneck, sheepskin jacket and a large hip flash - I'm sure it'll be fine.
I'll definitely be writing the blog as we travel but I'm not sure how often there will be access to the WWW. The story may have to be published after the event but as usual........
Watch this space
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