it feels like home!

The repatriation flight from Cape Town to London was one of those experiences which are best forgotten. Our Heathrow accommodation was equally forgettable while the 400 mile drive home was as good as could be expected.

Thankfully our builders had left the place in pretty good condition although they had not quite finished the job.

After a few days of getting everything sorted, we celebrated the relaxation of the lockdown rules by strolling along the Union Canal to Craiglockhart to have an appropriately social distanced drink with Ali and Neil in their garden. 

As we were a bit later than intended, we stopped for a fish supper at Fountain Park where I bumped into Gavin Hastings in the chippy queue.

Now I know I'm home - lets hope the summer lasts beyond this weekend.

PS the fish supper was excellent, washed down with a glass of Hollyrood Pale Ale 

I'm never going to finish the jigsaw now!

According to the FCO information page, places on the repatriation flights would be allocated with preference given to those who were sick, vulnerable elderly, stuck in hotel rooms etc.....

While I'm not sure how we were allocated seats on the first flight out, I'm not going to argue with them. Barring any problems, we'll arrive in Heathrow late on Saturday, overnight in a hotel at the airport and pick up a hire car for the drive to Edinburgh on Sunday since BA only flies to Edinburgh on weekdays.

Anyway, we should be home for the start of the week - just in time for the easing of the Scottish Lockdown which is expected on 28th May.

I've already placed my Majestic order

Repatriation flights

Cyril's last address told us that we could be moving to Level 3 of lockdown by the end of May, and there has been lots of press speculation about how and when, and whether the major infection hotspots - Cape Town, Joburg and Durban - would be excluded from the relaxed rules. Today we learned that the rules may be relaxed in some areas even sooner but still no details.

However, we also heard from the British High Commission this morning that they have arranged another package of repatriation flights - 7 from Capetown and 3 from Joburg - between May 23rd and June 4th.

With international commercial flights banned until Level 1 - which could be into next year - we decided to sign up for a flight home this time and now we wait to hear whether we have got seats and when we will fly.  No other details at the moment but it looks like we should be home in Edinburgh some time in the next couple of weeks.

That's the good news. The bad news is that I've just started a 2000 piece jigsaw and I'm not sure there'll be time to finish it!






   

A post-lockdown challenge

This is Simonsberg - the mountain which we see from our balcony everyday. It gleams in the morning as the sun clears the mountains behind us, glows red in the sunset and forms the backdrop to most of our time at home.

Like many other features in the Western Cape, it was named after Simon van der Stel - the first Governor of the Dutch Cape Colony at the end of the 17th C. It rises about 1400m above sea level but is only around 1000m climb to the top. Not sure when the lockdown will allow us, but I am planning a hike to the top as soon as we can.

However, it's more than just a mountain to hike because the slopes of Simonsberg are home to the wineries that produce most of our favourite SA wines and many of our favourite restaurants. From Delheim to Babylonstoren - including Noble Hill, Boschendal, Tokara, Thelema, Delaire Graff, Neil Ellis, Glenelly, Kanonkop, Neil Joubert, Simonsig and Glen Carlou to name just a few.

And, of course, there are quite a few others that we haven't even tried yet.

A Glass of Fizz in the BA Lounge at Cape Town International!

Our original flight home to Edinburgh - via Heathrow - should have been departing from CTI at 19.30 this evening, so we would probably have been in the lounge by now with a glass of MCC.

As it is, we've almost completed our seventh week of lockdown here in SA. We've been at Level 4 for the last two weeks although the only difference has been the freedom to go outside to exercise between sunrise (7.28am this morning) and 9.00am. Otherwise it's essentially the same as the previous 5 weeks.

Aside from clarifying the change in the rules from level 5 to level 4, we have had no other meaningful announcements from the government - although there was a cabinet meeting today and we've just heard that Cyril will address the nation later this evening.

That means that we'll either get an encouragement to abide by the Level 4 rules for a while longer, or a date for the move to level 3. Fingers crossed it's the latter - despite finding a few extra bottles, we are definitely into the final reserves now - although there's still a glass of MCC to cheer the evening

- along with a platter of sushi from the Clubhouse restaurant - which opened for takeaways this week.

Rough old life, I know. Particularly when we consider those people who are relying on the food parcels that Linda and her fellow volunteers were preparing today - and those who fall through the cracks and miss out on even this limited support.

It may be inconvenient to be stuck here longer than we intended; I may be bored with the routine and the limitations on leaving the house; I may have to resort to drinking some excellent wines which were intended for special occasions; and days may be getting shorter; but ......

Anyway, I hope to report on some good news of Cyril's speech later this evening.

Relaxing the rules

As we come to the end of our 5th week of level 5 lockdown, there has been much speculation about how the rules will be relaxed as we move to level 4 on Friday.

With the announcement, originally scheduled for Tuesday afternoon, delayed until this evening, we have now learned that, aside from the changes which allow more commercial and industrial businesses to restart operations, there will be very little change as far as individuals are concerned.

We will now have to wear cloth face masks whenever we leave the house and are still only allowed to go out for essential shopping and medical needs. In addition, they have imposed a curfew from 20.00 to 0500 every night.

As far as exercising outside, they have conceded that we can go out to run or cycle within 5 km of our home between 06.00 and 09.00 every morning - which will be challenging for many since sunrise tomorrow morning will be at 07.18. I guess there'll be lots of runners and cyclists on the road when it gets light!

We already knew that we would have to wait till we reach level 3 before we could replenish the wine and beer stocks, but they have now changed their minds and continued the cigarette ban as well.

So, the bottom line is that the change in lockdown is purely an economic measure which will make almost no change to our daily lives.... Ho, Hum....

On the positive side, the lockdown has certainly flattened the infection curve - there have only been 93 deaths across the country out of a population of 57 million -  and the community screening programme has now screened nearly 7 million people with around 200, 000 having been tested. 

Cyril has spoken.

In his address this evening, President Ramaphosa spelled out the 5 stage process that South Africa has adopted to exit the current lockdown. We have been on level 5 for 4 weeks and have one more week to go.

On 1st May we will move to level 4 which sees an increase in permitted economic activity under strict guidelines and an increase in the range of items which can be sold by the supermarkets.

Unfortunately this means that while the sale of cigarettes and tobaco products will be allowed, I'll still have to wait until we move to stage 3 before I can buy a bottle of wine. Wonder if they sell Davidoff's - might have to start smoking cigars again.

And as far as flights home are concerned, we'll be waiting until we reach stage 1.

On a day when his government's response to the pandemic had received praise from the WHO, Cyril's address was clear and concise and truly in the manner of the statesman that he appears to be.

Unfortunately his attempt to finish off by donning a facemask as an example to his fellow South Africans did not go well and appeared as a meme on Facebook and Youtube within a minute or so of the end of his speech.

St George's Day

It's also Shakespeare's birthday and the anniversary of the death of Daniel Defoe but as usual, there is no mention of the Saint's Day on the BBC English news. Has always struck me as odd given the coverage of St Patrick and St Andrew when their days arrive.

Day 28 of the SA lockdown with one more week to go - subject to an address from President Ramaphosa this evening. The pundits are all predicting a relaxation in the rules which will allow some industries to start operating again but I'm not sure there will be much change in the rules affecting those who are not working in these industries. The mobilisation of another 70,000 troops to support the Police would suggest that the lockdown for individuals is going to continue - still, we'll know more tonight.

It's also 37 years since I joined Stewarts and nearly 19 years since I left for my early retirement. My friend Bernie, who left at the same time, commented recently - in relation to an article about Coronavirus - 'I’ve come to appreciate that Idleness, enforced or otherwise, is more an innate talent afforded to we fortunate few, rather than a skill that can be learned by the many.'

As usual, he puts it much better than I could! On reflection,  I reckon I've taken full advantage of my own innate talent for idleness. Lets hope Cyril has some good news for us tonight.

Neighbours

The lemon tree in front of our ground floor balcony is laden with fruit. We've had a couple of usable lemons so far but hoping for many more. In the meantime, the flowers have attracted a colourful visitor.

The Citrus Swallowtail is probably one of the biggest and most impressive butterflies we are likely to see here with a span of about 4 inches

Citrus Swallowtail
By Charles J Sharp - from Sharp Photography

We took an essential shopping trip to Babylonstoren today - normally a busy place with wine tasting, restaurant, cafe, hotel, gardens and shops. However, its only 10 minutes away along a red dirt road and the farm shop is one of the few local places that are open during the lockdown. Its a great source of fresh vegetable from their gardens, home grown meat, dairy produce and bakery goods. Normally, the produce is earmarked for the restaurant and cafe but they are now offering it all for sale.

Loaded up with farm butter, eggs, fresh bread, pastries, a selection of veg that we wouldn't normally see in the supermarkets and a few extra treats - of course. Planning to return for their steaks next week.

On the way home we drove through the wine estate and saw how the vines are changing with the season. Like the Maple and Beech trees around the golf course, the vines are definitely showing off their autumn colours.

Home to good news - for a change - Avis have reduced the car hire rate to ZAR 50 per day for the duration of the lockdown - which is just over £2.00 at today's rate. Now if the wineries were open I could head off and spend some of the savings......

Autumn

The seasons have definitely changed, our days are getting shorter and the mornings are definitely cooler but still bright and sunny. From our bedroom balcony we look over the lake towards the members driving range and the clubhouse beyond.

Today was another bright sunny day wth clear skies and a high of around 26C and we managed a walk around part of the golf course when no one was looking. 

Sunset was at about 18.15 but we lose the sun a little earlier as it disappears behind the houses and trees opposite.

We have now spent more time here in our SA home than we have  in the new Edinburgh flat and I'd guess that we'll be here for another month or so before we get back there.

Travelling home

Having registered with the High Commission at the onset of the lockdown, we were eventually offered seats on one of the repatriation flights earlier in the week. In the end, we decided to decline the offer and make the seats available for others on the waiting list.

To be honest I didn't fancy a cutprice Virgin charter, for the 'subsidised' price of £1000 each, with 250 other punters which required us to leave home at 5.00am for a flight which would arrive in Heathrow just before midnight and then have to find a hotel for the night and still make our own way to Edinburgh the following day 

We figured that it was almost guaranteed to put us in contact with someone who was infected. So we're here until the rules are relaxed. Hope to leave before winter sets in but...

I've spent quite a lot of time listening to the Flower Duet from Lakme while trying to get through to BA to get refunds for the flights they had cancelled. Finally got lucky yesterday and managed to speak to someone in 'Customer Services' who assured me that everything was in hand and that the refunds would show up in the next 14 days - with an apology that this was a bit longer than usual due to the heavy demand. 

Yesssss!  Success!!! until I received an email less than 20 minutes later asking me to call them back to discuss an outstanding issue on one of the bookings. Wouldn't mind so much - what else am I doing now anyway - but when its such a pain to actually get through to them ...  Anyway, one more successful phone call this morning and its all done and dusted.

Then, we received a further message from them this afternoon to tell us that our original return flights for May have now been cancelled, asking us to call them about the refund. GRRRRR.

21 days in

We've completed the first 21 day lockdown - should be cause for celebration - but we have another 14 days (at least) to go. Still, we have a routine, the shops all have stock when we need to go and many of our local artisan businesses have obtained their essential services permits so they are offering a wide selection of products.

We took a stroll over to the Backs Deli on the estate today - its a 45 minute walk each way but obviously essential shopping. Came home with their own olive oil, cheese, sausages, bread and eggs. Couldn't resist a quiche for lunch and a couple of brownies for coffee time. Not quite as good as a visit to Leith Market but not a bad substitute. Just a pity they can't sell their own wine!

On the way there, we took the perimeter road and had time to watch some more of our local wildlife. Our star today was a Bokmakerie  - a bushshrike with a great whistling call - which sat up and posed for Linda's camera.

We had a look at the lilies on the biggest of the lakes and noticed that Autumn has definitely arrived as we strolled through the carpark.

Friday night treat of pizza from Pappa Grappa - the restaurant is closed and they are not allowed to sell takeaways but they prepared the pizzas so we could take them home and 'cook' them ourselves. Excellent pizza and an easy supper tonight. Think we might be back next week.

Food Parcels

Linda spent a couple of hours this afternoon helping prepare food parcels for people in need in the local communities.

I'd have been happy to join in the effort but I was over the age limit - which should give Jimmy C a laugh. 

Lockdown rules

Not sure how our less than friendly police service would have dealt with the two young guys who just paddled past the deck - doing circuits of the lake in a kayak.

Thankfully they weren't doing anything nearly as stupid as the two Brits who crashed through the border from Swaziland into SA, evaded a police pursuit and drove for 3 1/2 hours to Durban, only to be tracked to their guest house by the GPS unit on their hire car. Reckon they'll be spending a few months in jail just for the border crossing stunt before they are investigated for anything else.

Meanwhile, there's growing pressure on the Police Minister to relax the alcohol ban - although I don't think it will happen anytime soon. While it has certainly reduced some of the public order offences it has spawned a whole new industry of home brewing and liquor store looting which is diverting police resources from more important issues.

The number of gender-based violence offences is climbing so fast that they are in the process of establishing a new police task force to deal with the issue.  While this has been an ongoing problem in SA, the lockdown has contributed to a dramatic rise in the number of cases.

On the Covid-19 front, the lockdown has substantially reduced the growth in positive cases which has only just passed the 2000 mark while the number of deaths has now reached 25. The latest government report is predicting that the peak in the number of infections has been pushed back  to September (after the winter flue season0 which probably means that they feel the lockdown has had the desired effect. We'll have to wait and see what they decide at the end of the extended period before we know any more.

No Church, No chocolate - almost

Not the first Easter that I haven't been able to get to church but it still felt like something was missing. On the chocolate front we were not prepared and couldn't find any eggs or bunnies on our last shopping trip. However, we were saved by Ally, Sue and Cam who dropped off an easter chocolate package - along with a bottle of Glen Carlou dessert wine - yesterday afternoon. Definitely owe them for that!!

Roast Lamb for dinner - Greek style with roasted aubergines and couscous - and a Fairview Jakkals Fontein Shiraz made it feel more normal. We also managed an illicit walk around the golf course on the buggy paths. Didn't see a soul so no problem with social distancing although the Sacred Ibis, Blacksmith Plover and Egyptian Geese were all enjoying the space.

Unfortunately the internet has been very slow over the weekend - made it impossible to watch movies or online TV - have had enough of Montalbano and Italian food so I've moved on to Dave Robichaux and memories of my time in South Louisiana, although the body count is higher

Monday morning brought us back to routine and the first of this weeks daily workouts from Fitlife.

Another three weeks

So, its official, the SA three week lockdown has just been extended to five weeks which will take us to 30th April. Not the news we wanted to hear, but probably not unexpected.

Had planned to binge watch Phoenix Nights from the beginning tonight but the first episode was interrupted by news that the President was about to 'address the Nation' so Brian, Paddy, Jerry, Max, Ray and Holy Mary are on pause until a later date - of which there'll be plenty.

Straightforward message from Cyril Ramaphosa in his usual style - the lockdown is beginning to have the desired effect but despite the hardship that an extension will impose on millions of South Africans, it is essential that we stick with the programme for an additional two weeks.

While this is inconvenient for us, it is difficult to imagine the effect that it will have on the millions of South Africans who are living in crowded townships with little or no income, limited food supplies and continuous harassment by the Police and military when they try to stretch the rules to make their lives slightly more bearable.

However as I noted in an earlier post, the lockdown is definitely 'flattening the curve' so lets hope that the extension will get SA to a point where the health facilities can cope with the reduced number of cases and avoid the sort of death toll that is being experienced in other countries.

Of course, my major concern tonight is whether or not my wine supplies will last until the wineries reopen - we're not considering rationing yet but there is a chance that some of the 'special occasion bottles' may have to be sacrificed along the way.

No Snogging

The SA Police Minister Bheke Cele - clearly not a man who is concerned about the public vote - has followed up his ban on the sale and transportation of Alcohol and Cigarettes during the 21 day lockdown with a further ban - this time on hugging and kissing.

He was briefing Police and Army officers, who are enforcing the lockdown, during a visit to the Western Cape when he added this clarification - clearly sensible under the social distancing rules - but a little worrying given the somewhat heavy-handed nature of the policing so far.

According to the news reports, there have been more than 25,000 arrests for breaches of the lockdown rules so far and numerous claims of police brutality and a number of deaths attributed to them.

On the positive side there have only been 94 murders so far during the lockdown compared to 326 for the same period last year. The number of reported rapes has also reduced from 700 to 101 in the same period. However there has been a substantial increase in domestic violence - around 800 per day.

The Covid-19 news is pretty good with a total of 1700 confirmed cases across the country and 13 deaths so far. The lockdown has certainly slowed the spread of the virus and today was the launch of a mass screening and testing programme which will focus initially on the most vulnerable communities.

Of course, we are all waiting to hear whether the lockdown will be ended in 8 days as originally announced, or extended for a further period as many expect. The President was ducking the question in today's press conference - although he did quip at the end that while they had announced April 16 as the end date they hadn't specified which year!

Two more neighbours

The Anhinga is resident on our lake - usually swimming with his body almost entirely submerged - which why is he is also known as the 'Snakebird'.

African Darter - Anhinga rufa

 Egyptian geese - like their Canadian cousins - are often a nuisance in residential and urban areas. This fellow and his partner roost on a chimney next door and generally wake us at dawn most mornings - tempted to reach for the shotgun - if I had one!

Egyptian Goose - Alopochen Aegyptiaca

Ups and Downs

Just to remind us that the season is changing, we woke this morning to a cool, damp grey day - 17C outside and some heavy rain showers. Hoping the rain passes during the day but it's forecast cool for a couple of days.

Also woke to a Foreign Office message about repatriation flights which they are organising with Virgin Atlantic. Four flights scheduled from Cape Town over the next week but by the time we completed the registration we were told that all flights are full and we are on the waiting list. At the moment, there is no guarantee that there will be any further flights but we'll keep fingers crossed.

Seems odd that after the Foreign Office encouraged everyone to register their interest in repatriation flights more than 10 days ago, they don't appear to have arranged enough flights to accommodate them all. In addition, since there were Economy return flights with BA for £330-550 in January and February it seems a little rich that the one way economy fare on a UK government 'sponsored' repatriation flight with Virgin Atlantic is priced at nearly £900. I guess Dominic Raab's '£75 million repatriation budget is being used to pay for the consultants who are organising the operation.

After taking Sunday off, we were back to our workout routine again this morning - I'm discovering a variety of exercises which I like less and less. However it is definitely helping us to keep active.

It was such a grey wet day that we even managed to get started on a 1000 piece jigsaw which has been waiting in the cupboard for just such an occasion. Hopefully the rain will have passed and the sunshine returned before we get it finished.

A Red Letter Day???

After our Fitlife morning workout - day 7 0f 21 - and a little Vitamin D treatment, we also managed a live yoga class with Sharon in Edinburgh - via Zoom.

The Lockdown has increased my social media presence substantially. In the last two weeks I've signed up to Twitter - for communication with the High Commission and British Airways; Instagram - for our SA yoga teacher; and Zoom - for our Edinburgh yoga teacher. Had already signed up to Facebook and Whatsapp - which we use for our Fitlife workouts.

Clearly this variety of online interaction has not been free of frustration. I did find it hard to maintain the calm relaxed attitude which is helpful for the start of a yoga class after I had spent 10 minutes swearing at my laptop because either the sound wouldn't work, or the picture wouldn't orientate properly.  However my inner calm was restored this afternoon after a glass or two of Windhoek Draught and an excellent Delheim Merlot with our Spaghetti Bolognaise. Due to limited ingredients, the Bolognaise was sub-standard but the Merlot lived up to expectations.

Having abided by the letter of the law - almost - for the first week of the Lockdown, we needed to top up some essential supplies - no, not alcohol which is prohibited. So we headed to our local Woolies after lunch to find a queue of fifteen or so people waiting to get in. They are being very strict about limiting numbers in the store at any one time.

Unfortunately, the old English gent in front of us in the  queue appeared not to understand the 'Social distancing' guidelines. He also didn't notice Linda's reaction which was similar to that of a priest faced with the arrival of Lucifer. I'm not sure if she would have used the Cross to protect herself or to bash him over the skull.

Anyway, our shopping experience was not all we had expected but we came home with most of what we needed - although without a few things that would have been nice to have. We certainly won't go hungry - and the wine supplies are holding up well. We'd planned a stop at our favourite butchers but they have adopted a 'no mask- no entry' policy so no luck there.

After a couple of cooler days, we were back to 34C this afternoon, so we had to choose a shady spot for our sundowners.

Sightings

In addition to our usual selection of birds, we have now also seen:

an African Hoopoe

 a Pied Kingfisher

a Malachite Kingfisher

a yellow-billed Kite

Travel dreams??

Searching the music library on the Ipod, came across an album of Robin Laing's whisky songs. Reminded me those distilleries that I've visited - either because of their location such as Bruichladdich, Talisker,  and Bunnahabhain or the tastings - Glengoyne with Alex, Auchentoshan with Peter.
Started a new list of those I want to visit once the restrictions are lifted and we get back home to Scotland - not sure I'll get to them all this year but it'll be fun to try and there'll probably be some great hiking around them.

5 days down - 16 to go

We survived the weekend despite the redefinition of the rules, which mean that we are restricted to our home - no more walks along the Golf course buggy paths!

Our braai on Saturday was fine - great pork ribs - but it would have been better with some additional company. Started with a Fairview Quartz  Rose, followed by  De Morgenzon Pinot Noir  which was a present from Ali and Neil. Both were excellent.

We're definitely the only people in the block at the moment - second from the right - so we have the gardens to ourselves - if you don't count the Aninga, Coots, Little Grebes, Guinea fowl, Spurfowl
 and even a grey Heron which passes by on a daily basis.

Red-knobbed Coot

We'd completed the first 2 workouts on Friday and Saturday,  but had a day off on Sunday so we are running behind now. We got back on schedule on Monday and even managed an afternoon yoga class.

We also had a visit from a rather curious grey Squirrel.

Meanwhile, we discovered that the internet problems were caused by a break in a cable on the West African Cable system so that it is a country wide problem. Turns out that the break is on a section of cable in the English Channel and that it should be repaired in the next 3-4 days. As a result we have switched from Firestick back to Cable TV. Although it actually means more Montalbano than TV.

Lockdown Day One

Since we didn't need to check on any new developments from the High Commission or British Airways overnight, we had our first long lie in a while. This was followed by the Fitlife workout of the day.  Not sure we'll manage all 21 of these but lets see how it goes. Coach John, Liandi, Brendan and Eddie have done a great job and posted our first 4 workouts to get us through to Monday

The lockdown guidelines here say that, unless you are working in an essential service, you should remain in your home property for the entire period. You are allowed to leave between 0400 and 0900 and again from 1600 to 2000 for essential shopping  - only food stores and pharmacies are open - . Otherwise, STAY HOME!  I think we'll be able to stick with this - subject to the delivery services continuing.

Since we are in a block of 6 town houses - and we are the only current residents - we have decided that we can count the communal gardens and car park as part of our property so at least we have a bit of space. We also have a couple of balconies and a lake in front of the house so it's not really such a hardship - particularly for a cynical old misanthrope like me.

Cape Poker - Kniphofia Uvaria

Cape Sugar Bird (male) - Promerops Cafer

Bird of Paradise flower - Strelitzia Reginae

It does mean that we can sit and watch the wildlife for most of the day - a genuine displacement activity - instead of tackling the list of jobs we have prepared - plenty of time next week!

After our meal with Ally and Sue last night, I'm afraid Linda had to settle for a Moroccan sweet potato and chickpea stew tonight - even managed some homemade Ras al hanout - but at least there was a glass or two of the Spier Pinotage to wash it down. Have promised her Pork ribs on the Braai tomorrow night.

Disappointed to find that our fibre internet is a bit challenged by the number of people who are staying home - the  Firestick gave up when the download dropped below 1.5mbps. So back to Montalbano and the Sonos.

Still, that's us through day one - only twenty more to go.

Just as I was about to post this message, I got an automated email from British Airways to tell me that our flight for tomorrow night (24 hours away) is available for checkin - even though it was cancelled yesterday. Ain't technology wonderful!

No chance

We got our clarification this afternoon when BA cancelled all flights to and from SA until 19th April. So we are here for the duration of the lockdown - however long that may be. Personally, I think 3 weeks could become 5 or 6 quite easily, but if it helps to flatten the infection curve so that it stays within the capacity of the local health service then it will be worth it.

We also learned that the immigration department are going to be understanding in the case of visitors who overstayed their visas because of the virus which removed one of our major concerns.

Before this news was confirmed, we'd decided to be prepared, so, having started the morning with an online Yoga class with Carelene from Yoga House in Paarl, we headed for the  Paarl Mall for a few essentials. The queue at Woolies was discouraging and we decided to try a different branch - after a quick stop at the bottle shop to top up the beer supplies. While not overrun with customers, they had a steady stream of people buying up to the limits they had imposed.

The Woolies at Laborie had a shorter queue and we managed to get everything on the list and be back home by 11.00 am.

Strange, but quite pleasant, to think that we may not be back there for three weeks - if the Estate Delivery company live up to their fruit and veg delivery promises. Like my good friend Bernie - in the depths of Devon - I don't have a problem with three weeks of lockdown - now I'm prepared. We have an Amazon Fire Stick - thanks to Neil - which means we have more movies, TV and music than we will ever need. We also have kindle libraries which will probably last us for three years, let alone three weeks, and enough food and wine to last us.

Our gym at The Yard have also published a series of online daily workouts, and these, with the yoga classes, and the occasional glass of wine should get us through the lockdown 

Afternoon cycle round the estate - bright sunshine and 24C - let us see some of the streets that we haven't visited before and stop by the pool at the clubhouse which went into Lockdown a day early.

 then home to prepare for our 'Lockdown' supper with Ally, Sue and Cam.

Originally planned as a farewell supper - when we thought we were leaving on Saturday - it seemed appropriate to celebrate all those things we will miss because of the Lockdown including Easter and Sue's Birthday. Used a variety of essential supplies preparing the Beef Curry and accompaniements but we had a great evening - with the obligatory glass or two of Cuvee de Vie MCC and a very drinkable Spiers Pinotage.

Have started re-reading Andrea Camilleri's Montalbano novels and I'm enjoying Steven Sartarelli's translation even more than the first time. I'm transported to places in Sicily that I've never seen with descriptions of food that I can almost taste -  finished the first book today - another 15 or 16 to go

PS - I challenged Linda to give me a photo for each day of the lockdown and today we have a Helmeted Guineafowl

Keep that Bike away from me!

There is no plan C

After a day which started with a tough gym session with coach John at The Yard this morning, followed by a relaxed afternoon, we had a two hour power outage just before dinner time followed by some heavy rain and then learned this evening that the SA Department of Transport has announced that there will be no international flights during the three week lockdown which starts at midnight on Thursday.

Looks extremely unlikely that we will be leaving on Saturday, unless there are any further announcements. The UK High Commissioner and British Airways are still seeking clarification but I reckon the chances are slim to none.

So.... guess we are stuck here for the duration. As I said before, there are worse places to be marooned and we have food and wine to keep us going. However, the Police Minister has just announced that it will be a 'dry' lockdown and the sale and transport of alcohol will be prohibited for three weeks.  If you think there was panic buying of toilet roll last week, wait till the punters start on the bottle shops tomorrow!

Anyway, we were originally planning to be here till May, so we'll be able keep you updated on life in the SA lockdown. Might even find a few photos to back it up

Plan B

Well - two very similar announcements from President Cyril Ramaphosa and Prime Minister Boris Johnson:-

In South Africa, we have a 21 day lockdown from midnight on 26th with only essential services and a list of basic activities allowed; while in the UK it's an immediate 3 week lockdown with very similar restrictions.

Having thought about the consequences, and the risk of being stuck here for a lot longer, we decided that we should try to get back to Edinburgh if possible.

Unfortunately, there were no seats available before the lockdown starts here but we managed to get booked on a BA flight to Edinburgh via Heathrow on Saturday 28th. Bit of a comedy of errors as we tried to book the flights when both Bank of Scotland and Lloyds refused to authorise the payment despite clearing all the security checks. Not sure what caused the problem but thankfully the third attempt - M&S of course - went through without further problems.

Currently trying to get confirmation that the flight will actually go and that we will be allowed to make the journey to the airport. For the first time in my entire travelling life, I have been in touch with a British Consular officer to deal with a travel issue. Like BA, they are all waiting for clarification from the SA Government but hope that we'll have an answer soon and be able to get home on Sunday.

Meanwhile, we have sunshine and 31C here this afternoon and an hour or so at the poolside made everything feel better. Even managed to find the Kindle that Linda had left behind last Friday -  thanks to Kusta, the pool attendant. Think Kusta had the biggest smile when he saw his reward even though Linda was happy to get the kindle back, and I avoided the cost of ordering a replacement.

So for the time being, we'll be heading to the airport on Saturday - unless something changes.

Keep safe and well.

Still here

Hope you and your loved ones are all safe and well.

So the fires passed us by and here we are at the end of our first month, waiting to hear what new emergency Covid-19 measures will be introduced in SA this week and what new restrictions will be announced in the UK under the emergency legislation being debated in Parliament.

Thankfully, we're both fit and well and recovering from the great time we had during Ali and Neil's visit over the last week or so. Now they have headed home, we are having to think about what we are going to do. Initially it seemed attractive to sit out the pandemic here - where the sun is shining and we are surrounded by open space. However this may change if there are new restrictions imposed on movement and visas etc. We could also end up being stuck here beyond our planned dates with no way to get back to Edinburgh if airports are closed, or further travel restrictions are introduced.

First World problems of course, and nothing like the problems encountered by so many of the local population who are unable to go to work and local businesses which are challenged by the ban on foreign visitors and by the operating restrictions already imposed.

While there have been 400 cases confirmed here in the last 3 weeks, most of these are people who had returned to SA from one of the 'high-risk' countries. There have only been a few cases of local transmission so far but this will certainly change as time passes.

Meanwhile, we have enough food and wine to see us through the next week or two. Our gym classes are continuing - outside in the sunshine - which was a bit warm this morning, and although Yoga has been cancelled, all the classes are available online

We had a great hike at Mont Rochelle on Saturday followed by a braai with Ally and Sue and then lunch at La Paris yesterday - although without wine since we were past the 13.00 curfew - not sure Jimmy C would have been too happy. I'm also not sure if these options will be available much longer.

So, watch this space and we'll see what happens next.

More of the same

Sunday lunch at Delheim - our favourite winery - with Jane & David. Started with a tasting and then a table in the garden with views towards Table Mountain and some excellent food. 

Loaded up the car to restock the wine fridge and the rack before we headed home to find that the wind had got up again and the fire had spread along the ridge above the estate.

Update from the local authority to let us know that the volunteer firefighters are back on the job, so hopefully they'll get it back under control before it gets too close.

Might be getting a bag ready again. 

Where to start?

Hard to believe it's 10 days since we arrived - not sure what happened to the time. It was great to arrive to our second home and find that everything was as we left it and having our new furniture delivered on the first morning certainly helped.

The social round started almost as soon as we had unpacked - a braai with Ally and Sue, Jim, Simon, Nick and Helen and a Polo brunch at  Val de Vie meant that there wasn't much cooking required over the weekend. Good to catch up with these guys - its 6 or 7 years since we saw Jim and Simon but they were both in good form.

We'd been watching the loadshedding schedules before we arrived - 2 x 2hr power cuts each day - but luckily it was suspended a couple of days after we arrived and is still suspended - although there's always the threat that it could return any day. As a precaution, we are replacing the electric hob with a new Gas hob tomorrow.

We're back into our gym and yoga routine and had a yoga session in a brewery yesterday - followed of course by burger and beer (surprisingly, the vegan burgers were probably a better choice than the beef!).

Still a bit more shopping to do to prepare for our first guests - Ali and Neil - in a couple of weeks time but nothing too strenuous - biggest issue is getting the Braai chimney swept to remove the pigeons nest from the spring time. Thankfully the pigeons have moved on but they didnt take their nest with them,

Just when we were relaxing with a glass of wine on Friday evening and feeling quite pleased with our progress, we got a message to advise that the brush fire at DuToits Kloof Pass which had burned over 6000 hectares since Tuesday was being fanned by the very strong winds and heading over the mountain ridge in our direction. No immediate danger but ....

If we'd looked out the back windows we would have been able to see for ourselves......

Emergency bag packed with all those essential things and settle back to wait for news. Thankfully the fire moved away from us and was eventually brought under control around daylight with no loss of life or property - amazing job by the firefighting teams particularly when the helicopters were grounded by the strong winds.

Fire is still burning and we can see and smell the smoke but apparently they have it under control as long as the strong winds don't return.

Home Sweet Home

Even if it is bloody cold!!!

Uneventful journey home - usual uncaring service and tasteless food from BA on the longhaul flight - it used to be a pleasure to turn left when you boarded  one of their flights but now it feels more like Ryanair's big brother. We've already booked our next SA trip with them - at a reasonable fare - but it's definitely time to research other routes. Unfortunately, the Qatar schedule from Edinburgh  has changed but there are still a variety of options.

We are awaiting the installation of a new boiler for our central heating and hot water. Despite contacting our friendly heating engineer in November he was not able to schedule our installation until 3rd February. Wasn't a huge problem when the boiler was still working at 50% plus capacity but it has now decided that 20-25% is the best it can manage - which allows us to maintain a cool 15C in the apartment - and thats with 5-8C outside. If we get the cold weather which is promised for later in the month, I can see Linda moving back home to her mother's!

A couple of final thoughts on our trip:-

• If anyone is considering a Polar holiday - whether Arctic or Antarctic - I would recommend Quark Expeditions without reservation.
• I won't  be choosing a Cruise holiday again  - at least while I am still capable of making decisions. Nothing to do with the ships or the sea or the catering or even the accommodation - just the number of fellow travellers in a closed environment.
• Buenos Aires is a very pleasant city to visit with plenty to do. San Telmo, Puerto Madero and Recoleta were great for walking around never felt any threat and plenty of police of one sort or another. City Centre didnt feel as safe. Not expensive - although some of the top restaurants can be - getting around by taxi is cheap but there is also the Subte - underground. Wouldn't recommend driving in the city.

So that's it until the next trip - back to South Africa in five weeks time.

Dinner in BA

Dinner at Fervor in Recoleta with Sue, Ally, Lynn and James great company and an excellent meal.

Buenos Aires

We have adopted a relaxed life style for the last couple of days - a change from the busy schedule on board Ocean Endeavour.

We've walked a lot  around the city and the dikes of Puerto Madero

We also visited the Evita Museum and the corvette Uruguay which was the Argentine's Antarctic supply ship from 1903 when they took over the research station on Laurie Island until she was retired from service in 1926.

We spent part of a day exploring the Costanera Sur - a 350 hectare eco reserve which sits between the City and the River Plate. We were there for about three hours until it got too hot, and  we walked around 11km in all – there is a wide variety of birds, plants and butterflies.  They claim over 300 bird species – think we saw about 30.

By the time we were on our way home we felt that we had definitely earned the cold draft beer.

We had a dinner at Franca - on the waterfront - excellent meat as usual but not hugely inspiring otherwise.

On Saturday, we met up with Sue, Ally, James and Lynn for dinner at Fervor in Recoleta - definitely our best restaurant meal in BA. They were on their way back to SA after two weeks hiking in Patagonia which sounded like a bit of hard core hiking. Lucky that our paths crossed and great to have the chance to catch up before we see them again in 6 weeks or so in SA.

Now we are packing again for our flight back to Edinburgh this morning - it'll be good to get home but the temperature difference may be a bit of a shock.

Day 19 - Wednesday 8th January

Disembarkation Day
Almost impossible to see anything on our passage of the Beagle Channel and we arrived in Ushuaia in misty and very wet condition and 5C, There were 6 other expedition vessels at the quay, so lots of activity

We were the last group to disembark having watched the frantic exchange of contact details between some of our fellow passengers. Unfortunately the bags had been sitting on dockside for some time in in persistent rain so a bit damp as we loaded them on the coach for our transfer to airport where there was still a long check-in queue. We had priority board and business class seats again – but still no fizz.

Uneventful journey – first time I’ve opened my kindle in about 10 days.

It was 32C when we arrive in BA so a bit of a contrast. Lots of long goodbyes in the baggage hall for some or not.

Our prebooked taxi was waiting to take us to our Airbnb in Puerto Madero. Greeted by Lara –comfortable apartment overlooking the old harbour basins (dikes) which have now been redeveloped.

Had to unpack all the bags and lay a lot of wet stuff on balcony to dry including the cases – only negative of whole trip.

Out for some essential supplies and then home to cook dinner for first time in over three weeks – nothing complicated!

Great skyline at night from our balcony.

Everything had dried by the time we finished dinner and we had time for an evening walk around the dikes and then home to start catching up on the blog.

Day 18 - Tuesday 7th January

At sea on passage to Ushuaia via Cape Horn.- 10C – 10-12kt winds gentle swell - still making good time and it seems our trip around the Horn is on. Crossing the Drake has been very easy.

Early gym, breakfast, talk on Future of Antarctic Industry then out on deck for an hour or two – Sei Whale, Great Fulmar, Wandering Albatross, Southern Royal Albatross and  Black Browed Albatross

Steamed to western side of Cape Horn and then rounded the Cape from west to east before our entry to Beagle Channel- less than 3 miles off the cape – still great weather – perfect viewing and also a breaching Humpback as we passed the tip of the Cape

Then a briefing on the Disembarkation procedures followed by a very old movie  'Rounding the Horn.' Not worth the effort really 

Back on deck for a bit more viewing but it was damp and visibility was poor – also agroup of young americans arrived on Bridge wing and chattered away non-stop – has been a feature of the trip. Decided to head below and make a start on the packing.

Farewell party started with Captain’s reception and a final celebration dinner.  This was followed by a photo presentation by the team photographer - apparently some excellent pictures but I missed most of it because I'd been having a drink with the Chief Engineer who offered me a tour of the engine room - bit like being back at work but a great opportunity - took my new friend Paul along. He really enjoyed the tour, although his wife seemed none too pleased when we showed up for the closing credits of the photo show.

A couple of farewell drinks, a bit of dancing - including a conga around the main deck - and fairly early to bed - still have that packing to do!

Day 15 - Saturday 4th January 2020 - part two

After our first landing on the continent, we were back on board for lunch and then spent the afternoon Zodiac Cruising with Jaymie in Graham Passage and around Bluff Island.

We saw Chinstrap Penguins with their chicks on the side of the island and Gentoo Penguins in same place and a lone Adelie juvenile on an ice floe.

We also saw an Imperial Cormorant nesting site with plenty of well camouflaged brown chicks

–and then a colony of  Kelp gulls also with chicks - downy grey this time

We managed to collect some glacier ice for the bar which was a bit bigger and heavier than anticipated

while Linda claimed a separate piece for her gin & tonic(s).

Then Jaymie treated us to a journey through the brash ice in Bluff Cove as we watched icefalls from the glaciers.

Just when we thought it couldn't get any better a Humpback breached almost along side the boat - quite a day.

Not quite over, of course, because it was then back on board for yours truly to take the Polar plunge

followed by a dip in the heated saltwater pool on board - with a restorative dram - of course I got the tee shirt as well. Followed a little later by our daily briefing, drinks and dinner - not sure where the time goes!

Day 17 - Monday 6th January

At Sea - 1C, 12-15kt wind and gentle swell - crossing the Drake in benign conditions - I've seen bigger waves in the Firth of Forth.

Time to put away the Christmas tree and decorations.

Skipped gym and had a long lie and a leisurely breakfast followed by a great talk about penguins by our Ornithologist, Fabrice.

LP went to yoga , but I ducked out to spend some time on deck trying to spot different whales -  just as I popped inside for a warming cup of coffee, the group on the bridge wing spotted a blue whale crossing ahead of the vessel . By the time I got there I managed to see the last blow but nothing else.

Miko gave us an amusing talk on life at the Polish Antarctic station. then it was lunch and back outside to Bridge wing for an hour or so, but nothing to see – missed a breaching Humpback on other side.

Final recap and briefing – because the weather is forecast to continue very calm, there is a chance that we will be able to pass to the west of Cape Horn and then round the Cape on our way back to the Beagle Channel and Ushuaia

Before dinner, we had drinks with the expedition team and a charity auction with some interesting items. Despite helping to push the prices on most items, I was only successful in a bid for hand made blanket of Falkland Islands wool which LP was keen on.. The final item was a hand decorated chart of our voyage which I would have made a great memento of the trip.

Unfortunately one of the Americans fancied it too and we had a bit if a tussle until he got fed up and topped my last bid with an offer of $10,000. I was pretty sure he was going to keep going but Linda looked a little concern when I offered $8,000 - still the charities did well out of it.

Day 16 - Sunday 5th January 2020

Overnight we had steamed the short distance to Andvord Bay and an anchorage in Neko Harbour - named for the Norwegian whale factory ship which was based here for many years. Pleasant 3C – 1-2kt breeze and almost no swell - although the wind freshened a bit by the time we were on the water.

Another early start - since we were second group off, we landed on the continent at Neko Harbour and hiked up the hill in snow passing a number of separate Gentoo Penguin Colonies - most still incubating their eggs but a few with chicks. Great fun to watch them stealing stones from each other for their nests.

There were definite Penguin highways through the snow and we had to give way to them as the rushed down to the water or climbed back up to their nests.  We were quite warm by the the time we got to the high point where we could watch our intrepid mountaineering group heading off in to the distance.

Then it was back into the zodiac for a cruise with Alan - through the brash ice - trying to find Minke whales - without success. They could be heard but almost impossible to spot in the brash. We did find one of the guides kayaking through the ice

We did, however, see some amazing bergs and it was quite special to drift in complete silence through the icefields 

Roast lunch of course  - it's Sunday again

Our afternoon landing and cruise was planned planned for Cuverville Island but due to wind on the exposed beach landing site, we went instead to Danko Island (named after one of Gerlache’s colleagues)

Since we were first off this time, we were first on the beach and decided to hike to the top of the island (200M) first - passing a number of separate colonies of nesting Gentoos on the way. Managed to get some time on our own - no other yellow jackets - on the top and panoramic views of the continental glaciers were spectacular.

On our way back down we had time to study the colonies and the penguin highways which crisscrossed the path - we've seen lots of penguins in the last couple of weeks but it is still fascinating to watch them as they go about their daily routine.

Then it was back to the landing beach and a zodiac cruise with Tadashi and Michelle. More fabulous ice, and rock interfaces with Leopard seals resting on floes,

a group of Weddell seals on a snowfield on a small island, and even an Antarctic Tern taking time to do his preening on the edge of a floe.

Back on board the ship to prep for dinner and our Expedition Leader's toast to the continent as we departed  with most of us focussing on the 8- 10 humpbacks which were feeding in the waters off the stern of the vessel - while a group of Gentoos were sitting peacefully on a floe.

Just for a change we had a great BBQ dinner on the outer decks - where the catering staff again excelled themselves - just needed a warm jacket to sit at an outside table .

This was followed by wildlife quiz in the bar and a dram or two - no dry January yet!