Sunday 12 January 2020

Day 16 - Sunday 5th January 2020


Overnight we had steamed the short distance to Andvord Bay and an anchorage in Neko Harbour - named for the Norwegian whale factory ship which was based here for many years. Pleasant 3C – 1-2kt breeze and almost no swell - although the wind freshened a bit by the time we were on the water.

Another early start - since we were second group off, we landed on the continent at Neko Harbour and hiked up the hill in snow passing a number of separate Gentoo Penguin Colonies - most still incubating their eggs but a few with chicks. Great fun to watch them stealing stones from each other for their nests.

There were definite Penguin highways through the snow and we had to give way to them as the rushed down to the water or climbed back up to their nests.  We were quite warm by the the time we got to the high point where we could watch our intrepid mountaineering group heading off in to the distance.


Then it was back into the zodiac for a cruise with Alan - through the brash ice - trying to find Minke whales - without success. They could be heard but almost impossible to spot in the brash. We did find one of the guides kayaking through the ice


We did, however, see some amazing bergs and it was quite special to drift in complete silence through the icefields 

Roast lunch of course  - it's Sunday again

Our afternoon landing and cruise was planned planned for Cuverville Island but due to wind on the exposed beach landing site, we went instead to Danko Island (named after one of Gerlache’s colleagues)

Since we were first off this time, we were first on the beach and decided to hike to the top of the island (200M) first - passing a number of separate colonies of nesting Gentoos on the way. Managed to get some time on our own - no other yellow jackets - on the top and panoramic views of the continental glaciers were spectacular.

On our way back down we had time to study the colonies and the penguin highways which crisscrossed the path - we've seen lots of penguins in the last couple of weeks but it is still fascinating to watch them as they go about their daily routine.


Then it was back to the landing beach and a zodiac cruise with Tadashi and Michelle. More fabulous ice, and rock interfaces with Leopard seals resting on floes,

a group of Weddell seals on a snowfield on a small island, and even an Antarctic Tern taking time to do his preening on the edge of a floe.


Back on board the ship to prep for dinner and our Expedition Leader's toast to the continent as we departed  with most of us focussing on the 8- 10 humpbacks which were feeding in the waters off the stern of the vessel - while a group of Gentoos were sitting peacefully on a floe.


Just for a change we had a great BBQ dinner on the outer decks - where the catering staff again excelled themselves - just needed a warm jacket to sit at an outside table .

This was followed by wildlife quiz in the bar and a dram or two - no dry January yet!

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