Friday 10 January 2020

Day 9 - Sunday 29th December


After sailing from Grytviken, we spent the night holding station off Cumberland Bay in a gentle swell - winds still in the 20-25kt range. By the time we were woken for an early breakfast, we were anchored in Godthul - a favoured anchorage for the Norwegian whalers. We spent a couple of hours cruising the bay in Zodiacs - no landing but a relatively calm morning.




Lots of juvenile fur seals, elephant seal pups, Gentoo Penguins and the usual variety of seabirds including a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. We also saw good numbers of Snowy Sheathbills - another land bird which is only here in summer months - and a waterfall which kept the photographers busy.



Back on board for lunch - Sunday Roast again - while we sailed round to St Andrews Bay which is home to the largest breeding colony of King Penguins - 170,000 breeding pairs ate the last count and around 120,000 juveniles – last year's chicks which are only now shedding  their downy coats.



Amazing vista of the glacier - over which the wind was gusting into the bay below - just to keep us cool.

Not such a sheltered anchorage so slightly bigger swell and winds gusting to 60Kts but our expedition leader was keen to get us to the colony so we waited for an hour or so until the wind dropped to around 35kts with the occasional 45-50kt gust.

Rough zodiac ride and exhilarating surf landing but worth it form the sight of such an enormous King Penguin colony - literally as far as the eye could see.  Almost impossible to convey with a single photo and I'm not even sure the video clip will do it justice.


After dodging the fur seals by the landing beach, we hiked a short distance to a vantage point above the colony - surrounded by moulting adult penguins, furry juveniles and even adults incubating their eggs - balanced on their feet under a fold of flesh. 

My intrepid photographer was trying to sneak up on a pair of courting penguins - I think she did a great penguin walk so they wouldn't notice her but I'm not sure about the yellow jacket.


1 comment: