Home Sweet Home

Even if it is bloody cold!!!

Uneventful journey home - usual uncaring service and tasteless food from BA on the longhaul flight - it used to be a pleasure to turn left when you boarded  one of their flights but now it feels more like Ryanair's big brother. We've already booked our next SA trip with them - at a reasonable fare - but it's definitely time to research other routes. Unfortunately, the Qatar schedule from Edinburgh  has changed but there are still a variety of options.

We are awaiting the installation of a new boiler for our central heating and hot water. Despite contacting our friendly heating engineer in November he was not able to schedule our installation until 3rd February. Wasn't a huge problem when the boiler was still working at 50% plus capacity but it has now decided that 20-25% is the best it can manage - which allows us to maintain a cool 15C in the apartment - and thats with 5-8C outside. If we get the cold weather which is promised for later in the month, I can see Linda moving back home to her mother's!

A couple of final thoughts on our trip:-

• If anyone is considering a Polar holiday - whether Arctic or Antarctic - I would recommend Quark Expeditions without reservation.
• I won't  be choosing a Cruise holiday again  - at least while I am still capable of making decisions. Nothing to do with the ships or the sea or the catering or even the accommodation - just the number of fellow travellers in a closed environment.
• Buenos Aires is a very pleasant city to visit with plenty to do. San Telmo, Puerto Madero and Recoleta were great for walking around never felt any threat and plenty of police of one sort or another. City Centre didnt feel as safe. Not expensive - although some of the top restaurants can be - getting around by taxi is cheap but there is also the Subte - underground. Wouldn't recommend driving in the city.

So that's it until the next trip - back to South Africa in five weeks time.

Dinner in BA

Dinner at Fervor in Recoleta with Sue, Ally, Lynn and James great company and an excellent meal.

Buenos Aires

We have adopted a relaxed life style for the last couple of days - a change from the busy schedule on board Ocean Endeavour.

We've walked a lot  around the city and the dikes of Puerto Madero

We also visited the Evita Museum and the corvette Uruguay which was the Argentine's Antarctic supply ship from 1903 when they took over the research station on Laurie Island until she was retired from service in 1926.

We spent part of a day exploring the Costanera Sur - a 350 hectare eco reserve which sits between the City and the River Plate. We were there for about three hours until it got too hot, and  we walked around 11km in all – there is a wide variety of birds, plants and butterflies.  They claim over 300 bird species – think we saw about 30.

By the time we were on our way home we felt that we had definitely earned the cold draft beer.

We had a dinner at Franca - on the waterfront - excellent meat as usual but not hugely inspiring otherwise.

On Saturday, we met up with Sue, Ally, James and Lynn for dinner at Fervor in Recoleta - definitely our best restaurant meal in BA. They were on their way back to SA after two weeks hiking in Patagonia which sounded like a bit of hard core hiking. Lucky that our paths crossed and great to have the chance to catch up before we see them again in 6 weeks or so in SA.

Now we are packing again for our flight back to Edinburgh this morning - it'll be good to get home but the temperature difference may be a bit of a shock.

Day 19 - Wednesday 8th January

Disembarkation Day
Almost impossible to see anything on our passage of the Beagle Channel and we arrived in Ushuaia in misty and very wet condition and 5C, There were 6 other expedition vessels at the quay, so lots of activity

We were the last group to disembark having watched the frantic exchange of contact details between some of our fellow passengers. Unfortunately the bags had been sitting on dockside for some time in in persistent rain so a bit damp as we loaded them on the coach for our transfer to airport where there was still a long check-in queue. We had priority board and business class seats again – but still no fizz.

Uneventful journey – first time I’ve opened my kindle in about 10 days.

It was 32C when we arrive in BA so a bit of a contrast. Lots of long goodbyes in the baggage hall for some or not.

Our prebooked taxi was waiting to take us to our Airbnb in Puerto Madero. Greeted by Lara –comfortable apartment overlooking the old harbour basins (dikes) which have now been redeveloped.

Had to unpack all the bags and lay a lot of wet stuff on balcony to dry including the cases – only negative of whole trip.

Out for some essential supplies and then home to cook dinner for first time in over three weeks – nothing complicated!

Great skyline at night from our balcony.

Everything had dried by the time we finished dinner and we had time for an evening walk around the dikes and then home to start catching up on the blog.

Day 18 - Tuesday 7th January

At sea on passage to Ushuaia via Cape Horn.- 10C – 10-12kt winds gentle swell - still making good time and it seems our trip around the Horn is on. Crossing the Drake has been very easy.

Early gym, breakfast, talk on Future of Antarctic Industry then out on deck for an hour or two – Sei Whale, Great Fulmar, Wandering Albatross, Southern Royal Albatross and  Black Browed Albatross

Steamed to western side of Cape Horn and then rounded the Cape from west to east before our entry to Beagle Channel- less than 3 miles off the cape – still great weather – perfect viewing and also a breaching Humpback as we passed the tip of the Cape

Then a briefing on the Disembarkation procedures followed by a very old movie  'Rounding the Horn.' Not worth the effort really 

Back on deck for a bit more viewing but it was damp and visibility was poor – also agroup of young americans arrived on Bridge wing and chattered away non-stop – has been a feature of the trip. Decided to head below and make a start on the packing.

Farewell party started with Captain’s reception and a final celebration dinner.  This was followed by a photo presentation by the team photographer - apparently some excellent pictures but I missed most of it because I'd been having a drink with the Chief Engineer who offered me a tour of the engine room - bit like being back at work but a great opportunity - took my new friend Paul along. He really enjoyed the tour, although his wife seemed none too pleased when we showed up for the closing credits of the photo show.

A couple of farewell drinks, a bit of dancing - including a conga around the main deck - and fairly early to bed - still have that packing to do!

Day 15 - Saturday 4th January 2020 - part two

After our first landing on the continent, we were back on board for lunch and then spent the afternoon Zodiac Cruising with Jaymie in Graham Passage and around Bluff Island.

We saw Chinstrap Penguins with their chicks on the side of the island and Gentoo Penguins in same place and a lone Adelie juvenile on an ice floe.

We also saw an Imperial Cormorant nesting site with plenty of well camouflaged brown chicks

–and then a colony of  Kelp gulls also with chicks - downy grey this time

We managed to collect some glacier ice for the bar which was a bit bigger and heavier than anticipated

while Linda claimed a separate piece for her gin & tonic(s).

Then Jaymie treated us to a journey through the brash ice in Bluff Cove as we watched icefalls from the glaciers.

Just when we thought it couldn't get any better a Humpback breached almost along side the boat - quite a day.

Not quite over, of course, because it was then back on board for yours truly to take the Polar plunge

followed by a dip in the heated saltwater pool on board - with a restorative dram - of course I got the tee shirt as well. Followed a little later by our daily briefing, drinks and dinner - not sure where the time goes!

Day 17 - Monday 6th January

At Sea - 1C, 12-15kt wind and gentle swell - crossing the Drake in benign conditions - I've seen bigger waves in the Firth of Forth.

Time to put away the Christmas tree and decorations.

Skipped gym and had a long lie and a leisurely breakfast followed by a great talk about penguins by our Ornithologist, Fabrice.

LP went to yoga , but I ducked out to spend some time on deck trying to spot different whales -  just as I popped inside for a warming cup of coffee, the group on the bridge wing spotted a blue whale crossing ahead of the vessel . By the time I got there I managed to see the last blow but nothing else.

Miko gave us an amusing talk on life at the Polish Antarctic station. then it was lunch and back outside to Bridge wing for an hour or so, but nothing to see – missed a breaching Humpback on other side.

Final recap and briefing – because the weather is forecast to continue very calm, there is a chance that we will be able to pass to the west of Cape Horn and then round the Cape on our way back to the Beagle Channel and Ushuaia

Before dinner, we had drinks with the expedition team and a charity auction with some interesting items. Despite helping to push the prices on most items, I was only successful in a bid for hand made blanket of Falkland Islands wool which LP was keen on.. The final item was a hand decorated chart of our voyage which I would have made a great memento of the trip.

Unfortunately one of the Americans fancied it too and we had a bit if a tussle until he got fed up and topped my last bid with an offer of $10,000. I was pretty sure he was going to keep going but Linda looked a little concern when I offered $8,000 - still the charities did well out of it.

Day 16 - Sunday 5th January 2020

Overnight we had steamed the short distance to Andvord Bay and an anchorage in Neko Harbour - named for the Norwegian whale factory ship which was based here for many years. Pleasant 3C – 1-2kt breeze and almost no swell - although the wind freshened a bit by the time we were on the water.

Another early start - since we were second group off, we landed on the continent at Neko Harbour and hiked up the hill in snow passing a number of separate Gentoo Penguin Colonies - most still incubating their eggs but a few with chicks. Great fun to watch them stealing stones from each other for their nests.

There were definite Penguin highways through the snow and we had to give way to them as the rushed down to the water or climbed back up to their nests.  We were quite warm by the the time we got to the high point where we could watch our intrepid mountaineering group heading off in to the distance.

Then it was back into the zodiac for a cruise with Alan - through the brash ice - trying to find Minke whales - without success. They could be heard but almost impossible to spot in the brash. We did find one of the guides kayaking through the ice

We did, however, see some amazing bergs and it was quite special to drift in complete silence through the icefields 

Roast lunch of course  - it's Sunday again

Our afternoon landing and cruise was planned planned for Cuverville Island but due to wind on the exposed beach landing site, we went instead to Danko Island (named after one of Gerlache’s colleagues)

Since we were first off this time, we were first on the beach and decided to hike to the top of the island (200M) first - passing a number of separate colonies of nesting Gentoos on the way. Managed to get some time on our own - no other yellow jackets - on the top and panoramic views of the continental glaciers were spectacular.

On our way back down we had time to study the colonies and the penguin highways which crisscrossed the path - we've seen lots of penguins in the last couple of weeks but it is still fascinating to watch them as they go about their daily routine.

Then it was back to the landing beach and a zodiac cruise with Tadashi and Michelle. More fabulous ice, and rock interfaces with Leopard seals resting on floes,

a group of Weddell seals on a snowfield on a small island, and even an Antarctic Tern taking time to do his preening on the edge of a floe.

Back on board the ship to prep for dinner and our Expedition Leader's toast to the continent as we departed  with most of us focussing on the 8- 10 humpbacks which were feeding in the waters off the stern of the vessel - while a group of Gentoos were sitting peacefully on a floe.

Just for a change we had a great BBQ dinner on the outer decks - where the catering staff again excelled themselves - just needed a warm jacket to sit at an outside table .

This was followed by wildlife quiz in the bar and a dram or two - no dry January yet!

Day 15 – Saturday 4th January 2020

2C – Gentle (2-5kts) Breeze - no swell at all. Overnight cruise  from Deception Island to Charlotte Bay on the Antarctic Peninsula.

Our first sight of the Antarctic Continent

Early start for our zodiac cruise around Charlotte Bay watching Humpbacks from the zodiac, listening to them blow, even bubble-net feeding was very special and of course we were amazed by some big bergs.

Then we landed at Portal Point - the first time we set foot on the continental Antarctica.

We hiked around the point 

passed a few sleeping Weddell seals who hardly raised an eyelid 

and climbed to a vantage point which gave us a view over the whole bay. 

And of course we played in the snow:

Day 14 - Friday 3rd January 2020

At sea - still on passage to South Shetlands

5C, 20kt winds, gentle swell no sun - due to the effect of the circumpolar currents and the Peninsula itself, we are seeing very few big bergs now. a little bit of local ice but nothing more.

Gym in morning before breakfast but another lazy morning – skipped a couple more lectures - busy reading a summary of the early Antarctic explorers - but still managed a couple of hours on deck watching the islands slide by in the mist and cloud - and still plenty of Humpbacks

After lunch we arrived at Deception Island which is an active volcano with a huge internal caldera which forms a safe anchorage and was home to a whaling station for many years and then became a British Antarctic survey base until an erruption in 1970 caused the place to be abandoned.

Initially we anchored on the south west corner of the island off Baily head which has one of the largest colonies of Chinstrap Penguins in the world - currently around 50,000 breeding pairs but declined from twice that number in the last 20 years or so.

Unfortunately, there was a heavy surf breaking on the landing beach so we had to settle for a long zodiac cruise with Wayne instead, around the outside of the island, chasing after a couple of passing Humpbacks, watching the Chinstrap Penguins porpoising on their way to and from the beach

and getting close into some very small coves

before eventually cruising round into Whalers Cove and landing at the site of the British station,

where we found a couple of charter yachts and a number of Leopard seals relaxing on the beach - thankfully some distance from the landing site. There was a distinctly eerie feeling about the place as we wandered among the abandoned buildings with clear evidence of recent eruptions and a misty atmosphere.

Apparently the pair of Gentoo Pengiuns figured that they could move faster than the seal on the shingle beach.