Since arriving in La Fortuna on Wednesday, we have still to catch a glimpse of the Arenal Volcano which dominates the area. It has been hidden in the clouds and mist and by the rain which has fallen almost constantly.
It has made it hard to enjoy the tours - our walk over the hanging bridges in the rain forest on the volcano´s slopes yesterday morning was very wet and all the wildlife was sensibly sheltering from the rain.
When we got back to town, we decided that the only thing to do in the rain was to buy a day ticket to the Hot Springs resort and we spent the rest of the day relaxing in the thermal pools - there are 25 of them ranging from 32-63deg C - and trying to avoid the temptations of the three pool bars and waterside restaurants. Definitely felt cleansed and relaxed by the time we left.
It was also a great place for people watching - although we left before the main tourist rush in the early evening when they arrive in coachloads.
We´ve just cancelled our volcano climb for this morning and are hoping that the sun will come out later today as forecast. Planning kayaking on Lake Arenal tomorrow and then moving on to Monteverde and the Cloud Forest.
Friday, 19 February 2010
Fellow Travellers
As one travels around Costa Rica, there are constant reminders that you are in North America´s backyard .
From the tour operators who price everything in US Dollars and charge extra if you want to pay in Colones, to the hordes of US and Canadian tourists all around.
On our trip from San Jose, we were joined at one of the hotels by a blonde Florida bimbo - with husband and 4 bags in tow- who looked as if she had just stepped off the set of Miami Vice. In addition to complaining loudly about most aspects of the journey, she kept us all waiting at the rest stop because she was shopping in the souvenir shop and then asked a stream of inane questions of the driver which didn´t help his driving on the mountain switchbacks.
Then, as we sat in our Hotel lobby yesterday evening, we overheard another guest complaining about how poor the roads were and how long it took to get anywhere and then badgering the receptionist about how he and his wife could drive both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts of CR and see everything in the 4 days that they had allowed to see the whole country!
Interestingly China is making a big play here , signing major new trade agreements and financing the construction of the new National Stadium.
My new best Tico friend - Javier - who has been our guide for a couple of tours here in La Fortuna probably explained the changes best when he told us that in addition to English he also spoke Japanese, some German and French and that at the end of this season will be taking Mandarin lessons. Although in his 20'´s, his card describes him as a ´Professor of Biology´but he says he earns more money as a guide than as a teacher.
From the tour operators who price everything in US Dollars and charge extra if you want to pay in Colones, to the hordes of US and Canadian tourists all around.
On our trip from San Jose, we were joined at one of the hotels by a blonde Florida bimbo - with husband and 4 bags in tow- who looked as if she had just stepped off the set of Miami Vice. In addition to complaining loudly about most aspects of the journey, she kept us all waiting at the rest stop because she was shopping in the souvenir shop and then asked a stream of inane questions of the driver which didn´t help his driving on the mountain switchbacks.
Then, as we sat in our Hotel lobby yesterday evening, we overheard another guest complaining about how poor the roads were and how long it took to get anywhere and then badgering the receptionist about how he and his wife could drive both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts of CR and see everything in the 4 days that they had allowed to see the whole country!
Interestingly China is making a big play here , signing major new trade agreements and financing the construction of the new National Stadium.
My new best Tico friend - Javier - who has been our guide for a couple of tours here in La Fortuna probably explained the changes best when he told us that in addition to English he also spoke Japanese, some German and French and that at the end of this season will be taking Mandarin lessons. Although in his 20'´s, his card describes him as a ´Professor of Biology´but he says he earns more money as a guide than as a teacher.
Wednesday, 17 February 2010
Wlldlife spotting
Forgot to mention that our time at Jalova did allow us to see a wide variety of birds, reptiles, insects and monkeys.
There were Howler, Spider and Capuchin monkeys living around us in the rain forest which were rarely happy to see us and usually reacted by screeching, throwing things or peeing on you if you stood in the wrong place. We saw tracks of many other mammals - Jaguars (of course), Tapirs, Coati, Agouti, White-tailed and red Brocket deer and raccoons - but only saw the Red Brocket deer. We did see an Agouti a couple of times in the garden of our cabin at Punta Uva.
There were quite a few reptiles starting with the big crocodile which lived on the beach by the boat landing - where we also saw evidence of a couple of other crocs preparing their nest sites. There were lots of Eyelash Vipers, a few pit vipers, a coral snake (which crossed the trail just in front of Linda - I'm sure she'll show you the video some time) and a Boa Constrictor which was laying on the trail digesting its lunch. There were also Green iguanas - including a group of youngsters living on the edge of the base, lots of Anoles and Whiptails and - of course - a few gekkos as well.
During the wet weather we could hear the Marine Toads and frogs calling at night and there were a lot of toads around the compound. The smaller frogs were harder to see, but we did see the red-eyed treefrog, and some of the others saw poison dart frogs as well. We were outside the marine turtle season but did see one Green Turtle which had come up to lay its eggs at the wrong time and was predated by a Jaguar. There were lots of river turtles on the canals and the occasional caiman.
There were not as many insects as we expected although there were some large spiders - Brazilian Wandering spiders, Golden Orbs and even a Tarantula or two. A few scorpions - including one on the end of Linda's bed and quite a lot of ants and mosquitos.
There were Howler, Spider and Capuchin monkeys living around us in the rain forest which were rarely happy to see us and usually reacted by screeching, throwing things or peeing on you if you stood in the wrong place. We saw tracks of many other mammals - Jaguars (of course), Tapirs, Coati, Agouti, White-tailed and red Brocket deer and raccoons - but only saw the Red Brocket deer. We did see an Agouti a couple of times in the garden of our cabin at Punta Uva.
There were quite a few reptiles starting with the big crocodile which lived on the beach by the boat landing - where we also saw evidence of a couple of other crocs preparing their nest sites. There were lots of Eyelash Vipers, a few pit vipers, a coral snake (which crossed the trail just in front of Linda - I'm sure she'll show you the video some time) and a Boa Constrictor which was laying on the trail digesting its lunch. There were also Green iguanas - including a group of youngsters living on the edge of the base, lots of Anoles and Whiptails and - of course - a few gekkos as well.
During the wet weather we could hear the Marine Toads and frogs calling at night and there were a lot of toads around the compound. The smaller frogs were harder to see, but we did see the red-eyed treefrog, and some of the others saw poison dart frogs as well. We were outside the marine turtle season but did see one Green Turtle which had come up to lay its eggs at the wrong time and was predated by a Jaguar. There were lots of river turtles on the canals and the occasional caiman.
There were not as many insects as we expected although there were some large spiders - Brazilian Wandering spiders, Golden Orbs and even a Tarantula or two. A few scorpions - including one on the end of Linda's bed and quite a lot of ants and mosquitos.
Since the bird surveys were one of reasons for being there, it was great to see such a huge variety. I think we managed about 24 of the Survey species - including 9 egrets & herons, and 6 kingfishers. We also saw 3 types of toucan - with amazing colours; flocks of parrots; a whole range of waders, terns and gulls; huge flights of Brown Pelicans - up to 51 in one formation; along with Trogons, orependulas a variety of antbirds and treecreepers and two types of woodpecker - including the one that they based Woody on! In addition to the Black and Turkey Vultures, we also saw Ospreys, Kites, falcons and various other Hawks.
As we head off for the mountains, I hope we will add to the list and perhaps see the elusive Quetzals when we get to the cloud forest.
Does Jinty have a twin sister???
One of the volunteers - a lady from Essex who is taking a career break from working at the London Stock Exchange - could be Jeanette´s twin sister. She was so alike in so many ways that Linda spent the first two weeks calling her Jinty! Only those who know Jeanette would really appreciate this but it was quite scary to imagine that there may be two of her wandering the planet!
Tuesday, 16 February 2010
Our rainforest experience
Difficult to know where to begin. As I said at the outset, the accommodation was basic but pretty much what we expected. We were in a dorm with 6 bunks - although luckily one was unoccupied and in recognition of my elderly state I was allowed one of the bottom bunks. The mattresses were a little on the thin side but we were generally in bed early and up most days by 5.00 am or earlier. The food was plain but ok - the amount of salsa, ketchup or soy sauce used at a meal was a good indication of how well - or not - the camp duty team had done.
The biggest challenge was probably the communal living part - being in close and continuous proximity with 25 - 26 others! While the volunteer group mixed very well and there were no clashes of personalities, it was very different from the last 8 months or so in Ireland when it was just two of us in a fairly remote location. I think that 10 years or more at boarding school taught me a lot about living with others and Linda had similar experiences when she was in the Merchant Navy. Unfortunately many of our group seemed completely oblivious of the other people living in close proximity - particularly for those who may have been sleeping or relaxing!
The group consisted of 4 Americans, 3 Europeans, 3 Colonials, one Costa Rican and 15 Brits. There were only 5 over 30, with the majority being under 25 and three under 20. It meant that conversation was littered with words such as "awesome', 'cool', 'chilled', 'lush' etc, and was all at a volume that was better suited to a parade ground than the living room.
Amongst the characters, we had - in addition to the Essex lady of a certain age referred to previously - a young scandahooligan affectionately referred to as 'boy' - a bit like Cheetah in the Tarzan films; a couple of people seriously commited to conservation; one seriously committed to loud conversation; a young 'good ole boy' from Georgia; a couple of perennial students; a couple who were in their gap years before, during or after their university degree; and a number who seemed to be hiding from the real world having left behind their careers in journalism, construction, engineering etc and looking for something more meaningful. There were some who had clearly worked hard to save the money for the trip and some who were relying on the generosity of others - usually parents.
Despite all these differences, we bonded well as a group - partially as a result of the limited management ability of the Field Coordinator who single-handedly managed to lose the goodwill and support of the volunteer group by the end of week 2. She compounded this by failing to address the problem until the end of week 4.
Most of the difficulties were due to teething problems at the new base and to the management failings which is a pity as I think it showed the organisation in a bad light. I am not sure that I would ever consider this type of trip again - and if I did, I know I would be doing it on my own as Linda has made it clear that she wouldn't be joining me! However, it was an experience that we both enjoyed - even if we are not keen to repeat it anytime soon.
The biggest challenge was probably the communal living part - being in close and continuous proximity with 25 - 26 others! While the volunteer group mixed very well and there were no clashes of personalities, it was very different from the last 8 months or so in Ireland when it was just two of us in a fairly remote location. I think that 10 years or more at boarding school taught me a lot about living with others and Linda had similar experiences when she was in the Merchant Navy. Unfortunately many of our group seemed completely oblivious of the other people living in close proximity - particularly for those who may have been sleeping or relaxing!
The group consisted of 4 Americans, 3 Europeans, 3 Colonials, one Costa Rican and 15 Brits. There were only 5 over 30, with the majority being under 25 and three under 20. It meant that conversation was littered with words such as "awesome', 'cool', 'chilled', 'lush' etc, and was all at a volume that was better suited to a parade ground than the living room.
Amongst the characters, we had - in addition to the Essex lady of a certain age referred to previously - a young scandahooligan affectionately referred to as 'boy' - a bit like Cheetah in the Tarzan films; a couple of people seriously commited to conservation; one seriously committed to loud conversation; a young 'good ole boy' from Georgia; a couple of perennial students; a couple who were in their gap years before, during or after their university degree; and a number who seemed to be hiding from the real world having left behind their careers in journalism, construction, engineering etc and looking for something more meaningful. There were some who had clearly worked hard to save the money for the trip and some who were relying on the generosity of others - usually parents.
Despite all these differences, we bonded well as a group - partially as a result of the limited management ability of the Field Coordinator who single-handedly managed to lose the goodwill and support of the volunteer group by the end of week 2. She compounded this by failing to address the problem until the end of week 4.
Most of the difficulties were due to teething problems at the new base and to the management failings which is a pity as I think it showed the organisation in a bad light. I am not sure that I would ever consider this type of trip again - and if I did, I know I would be doing it on my own as Linda has made it clear that she wouldn't be joining me! However, it was an experience that we both enjoyed - even if we are not keen to repeat it anytime soon.
Back in San Jose
Just arrived back here after 6 days on the Caribbean coast at Puerto Viejo and Punta Uva. Stayed at three different places which became more "rustic" and remote - with plumbing which was challenging.
The night out in Puerto Viejo with the rest of the team was great fun - we ended up at one of the local hotspots where it was Ladies Night - free drinks for the girls and guys not allowed in until midnight. Great fun and a bit of dancing to the early hours - unfortunately a bit too much for one of our girls who ended up having to explain to the local constabulary why she was hanging over a fence on the way home. We left them all the following morning - after Linda had given them her suggestions for hangover remedies - and headed down the coast and found a couple of quieter places where we managed a bit of swimming and kayaking over the coral reefs. Had planned to go back for some snorkelling but the weather changed on Saturday and we didnt fancy fighting through the Sunday morning surf.
Managed some great meals however - particularly in a place at Punta Uva called El Refugio - run by an Argentine couple - which was open to the forest on three sides. definitely our best meal in CR so far - think it will be hard to find anything better.
Found a private bus service for the journey back here - Interbus - which was a bit more expensive than the public bus but took us door to door and was airconditioned as well - think we may be using them a lot over the next few weeks.
Planning our travels for the next 4 weeks in CR and heading up to La Fortuna on Wednesday to see the Arenal Volcano and then on to the cloud forest at Monteverde and Santa Elena.
Have decided that 4 weeks here will be enough and have booked our final two weeks in Mexico - flying up to Cancun for a few days with Linda's BMW driving, CC & coke drinking, Canadian banker cousin and then on to see the rest of the Yucatan.
The night out in Puerto Viejo with the rest of the team was great fun - we ended up at one of the local hotspots where it was Ladies Night - free drinks for the girls and guys not allowed in until midnight. Great fun and a bit of dancing to the early hours - unfortunately a bit too much for one of our girls who ended up having to explain to the local constabulary why she was hanging over a fence on the way home. We left them all the following morning - after Linda had given them her suggestions for hangover remedies - and headed down the coast and found a couple of quieter places where we managed a bit of swimming and kayaking over the coral reefs. Had planned to go back for some snorkelling but the weather changed on Saturday and we didnt fancy fighting through the Sunday morning surf.
Managed some great meals however - particularly in a place at Punta Uva called El Refugio - run by an Argentine couple - which was open to the forest on three sides. definitely our best meal in CR so far - think it will be hard to find anything better.
Found a private bus service for the journey back here - Interbus - which was a bit more expensive than the public bus but took us door to door and was airconditioned as well - think we may be using them a lot over the next few weeks.
Planning our travels for the next 4 weeks in CR and heading up to La Fortuna on Wednesday to see the Arenal Volcano and then on to the cloud forest at Monteverde and Santa Elena.
Have decided that 4 weeks here will be enough and have booked our final two weeks in Mexico - flying up to Cancun for a few days with Linda's BMW driving, CC & coke drinking, Canadian banker cousin and then on to see the rest of the Yucatan.
Wednesday, 10 February 2010
On the beach
The rain forest expedition is over - more on this later - and we are now on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca which is one of the big surf resorts. It is a very busy place but we are only here for a couple of days - to allow time for laundry, internet, telephone and banking - and then we are heading down the coast to Punta Uva - much quieter with a coral reef for snorkelling and kayaking and a bit of sitting in the sun with a cold drink watching the waves!
So far have managed a couple of cold beers, some fresh fish, and quite a lot of reggae. We are here with some of the others from the expedition and big night out planned for tonight - perhaps even some Salsa!
Will try to report tomorrow - if the head allows.
So far have managed a couple of cold beers, some fresh fish, and quite a lot of reggae. We are here with some of the others from the expedition and big night out planned for tonight - perhaps even some Salsa!
Will try to report tomorrow - if the head allows.
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