This time it's Villarica (2840m) with a whisp of smoke leaking from the peak – just as ubiquitous as Osorno was – hard to find a view that doesn't include it somewhere.
We left the Tsunami evacuation signs behind us at the coast and now note the volcano evacuation routes as we climb over mountain passes.
A very pleasant drive – about 225km – some large plains covered in grain ready for harvest , hills covered in trees, more dairy and beef herds (although in smaller numbers) and fruit plantations with plums and nectarines and a variety of berries which we couldn't quite identify. Stopped for coffee in Panguipulli – a town with 14,000 rose bushes decorating the streets and the main plaza – probably the busiest place we have been since we left Santiago!
Hoped we would leave the crowds behind as we headed further into the hills but our stop for tonight at Coñaripe proved us wrong. The road and lakesides are thronged with holidaymakers – busier even than the beach at Con Con Bay. A bit like Skegness on steroids, it seems that the further you drive into the lakes the more crowded – and perhaps tackier – the towns have become. The guesthouse which was recommended by our guide book is very comfortable and has the best shower so far in Chile however their restaurant – which was also highly recommended - is still closed after a fire in a neighbouring building last year.
We are here to visit the Geometricas thermal springs on the edge of the national park and plan an early start tomorrow to beat the crowds and then carry on north to the shores of Lago Villarica
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